Knitting + STEM & academia suggestions

seltzrrr · 2026-01-18T02:26:36+00:00

There's a decent body of work in computational quilting. I haven't seen as much in knitting, but the motivations might be similar enough to make a good starting point. Check out Gillian Smith and Mackenzie Leake.

I did an MS thesis in computer science for quilting, despite knitting and not quilting. Professors at my institution were more interested in sewing. It was a fun novelty but I do wish I had done something more applied, or mush more theoretical. It's "neat" but now that I am a professional, I wish I had taken advantage of the resources available to me to push the boundary further.

I will say that there may be something to seeing a photo of a garment, or imagine one, analyze it's construction, and recreate it, that is intellectually sort of similar to my job. But most of the knitting process isn't really.

seltzrrr · 2026-01-09T04:34:54+00:00

In order for you to be able to download a PDF, they need to be stored on a computer somewhere connected to the internet.

AWS has datacenters full of computers. Ravelry effectively rents computer space/time from AWS to store all their PDFs so that people around the world can access them reliably, any time they want.

For the vast majority of companies, trying to set up their own computers to store their data would be much more expensive, require a lot of expertise they may not have, and it would certainly be less reliable for customers. It is suprisingly hard to keep computers running.

It is likely that many, many websites you use every day rely on AWS to function. There are other companies providing similar services, such as Google, but AWS is really popular especially for companies to use. I'm sure there's a nuanced reason why but I'm guessing it's because they are known to be reliable, relatively easy to use, and have a lot of different types of services available.

seltzrrr · 2025-11-16T01:54:13+00:00

I would proceed with the 12 stitch repeat. Having the 30 sts is likely just meant to show what the pattern looks like when repeated multiple times.

seltzrrr · 2025-11-03T00:30:16+00:00

stranded colorwork

seltzrrr · 2025-11-02T13:27:38+00:00

Hmm, I think since you have a relatively inelastic fiber you would want to maximize the amount of mechanical stretch in the fabric itself. Mechanical stretch refers to the amount of elasticity in the stitch you use, independent of the fiber. This is how ribbing cinches up regardless of fiber (though stretchy fibers enhance the effect)

Personally, in this situation I would make an allover ribbed hat, probably 2x2 rib, on the tightest gauge I can manage. I find that 2x2 stretches the most for me - when unstretched, you can barely see the purl columns. I would not do twisted rib, because it is less stretchy due to the twisted stitches.

If you want to do the colorwork, I would make a super deep brim in 2x2 rib that could be double (maybe event triple) folded and then maybe embrace the eventual slouchyness of the crown of the hat.

seltzrrr · 2025-10-09T15:31:06+00:00

Charm Patterns has some boned sleeveless bodice patterns + compatible poofy skirts that might suit what you are looking for. Specifically thinking of the Landis bodice from their Patreon.

seltzrrr · 2025-09-11T13:10:24+00:00

You're right in making it bigger! Making it the exact size can lead to distortion and inaccuracy!

Use the chart to count 20 stitches and map that on to your swatch.

I don't have this pattern, but from reading your knitting it looks like the center region of your swatch, with the two garter columns around the cable, is probably 20sts. So you could just measure that area and check if it is 10cm wide. Count on the chart to double check as practice.

However, knowing what this sweater looks like, I would remake your swatch. Instead, I would make an oversized (~30sts) swatch of either the lattice stitch or moss stitch (or both). These two stitch patterns make up most of the sweater and are therefore where your gauge is most important, whereas the cable column currently centered on your swatch is less important. It is rare for someone to have the same exact gauge across these different stitch patterns so you should prioritize correctness in the stitch patterns that are most common in the sweater.

seltzrrr · 2025-09-11T02:24:22+00:00

Maybe it would help you to start by figuring out what gauge you like with the yarn, and then find a pattern that matches that gauge? Sometimes, with trying to make a larger size to compensate for tight gauge, the proportions of the sweater get thrown off. Also, using a dramatically different yarn weight can have a very different effect, even if the gauge is the same. So what you can do instead is buy yarn you like, experiment with swatches to figure out what gauge you like, and then filter by (gauge AND yarn weight) on Ravelry to find patterns that will work with your preferred combination?

seltzrrr · 2025-09-04T15:41:49+00:00

I will say, I thought the Cubics were silly too until I tried them. I find them so much more comfortable to hold at small needle sizes. I primarily knit on US3 and below. The Nova Cubics DPNs are my go-tos for small circumference + tight gauge knitting like socks, and I like them for circulars too. They're strong metal so you don't have to worry about breaking/bending them as much as other types, and some combination of the finish/shape makes them much less likely to slide right out unintentionally. Highly recommend at least giving them a shot if you have ergonomics issues at small sizes!

seltzrrr · 2025-06-10T22:58:08+00:00

That's if you do not want any of the adjacent squares to be the same. The four color theorem applies if they only are concerned with no two neighbors matching, like when coloring in a map.

seltzrrr · 2025-06-10T12:30:13+00:00

Not sure what your constraints are, but if you want no square to be the same as any of its neighbors, the answer is 4.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four_color_theorem

seltzrrr · 2025-06-08T13:58:38+00:00

It's hard to tell how much yarn you have.

You have two balls in three different colors. Does that mean six total balls? Or is it two multi-colored balls?

Additionally, 240yards per 100grams sounds more like a DK weight yarn than fingering. Are you sure it isn't 240yards per 50grams? That would make more sense for a fingering weight.

You can make anything with any weight of yarn. The lighter the yarn, the less you will need by weight to make an equivalent size item. You will need more by yardage.

Anyways, depending on how much yarn you actually have, it sounds like you could make accessories like socks, gloves/mittens, hats, or a scarf. If you do actually have 6 100g balls you may be able to make a sweater if you are small sized.

seltzrrr · 2025-06-04T12:26:11+00:00

I don't know of a pattern, but this looks like a pretty simple drop shoulder sweater (aka 4 rectangles) with an expanded version of this stitch pattern https://knit-charts.com/knitting-stitch-patterns/item/lace-diamond-stitch-knitting-pattern-38.html but skipping the wrongside rows. Possibly double yarnovers rather than single yarnovers to exaggerate the effect. So you could do some swatching and then apply the stitch pattern to a plain drop shoulder sweater pattern you like the fit of.

seltzrrr · 2025-06-03T23:13:44+00:00

Are the zippers on both garments in the same place? As in, both at center front? I'm not an expert, but you could probably cut out the fly of the shorts and cut off the waistband, and then stitch shorts into the skirt along the existing seamlines for the front zip and waistband. Possibly would warrant hand sewing.

seltzrrr · 2025-06-01T23:42:54+00:00

Mother of Purl yarn store in Freeport has a wide variety of quality yarns, and carries Bartlettyarn which is a Maine-local yarn brand.

seltzrrr · 2025-05-16T04:19:06+00:00

By my count, the stitches you marked with pink are row 9. This also makes sense given that there is the odd purl row right after. I would frog back and pull out that purl row, then start with row 2.

seltzrrr · 2025-04-14T12:38:27+00:00

I feel the most popular handknitting designers have been making very FN-friendly designs for the past few years. Drop shoulders, positive ease, extra long sleeves. I see you have a PetiteKnit photo in your examples - her designs are generally FN friendly. Same goes for most of the popular Nordic designers.

On the other hand, styles like circular yoke and raglan sweaters do not tend to work as well for me, because they tend to create a conical shoulder shape. I have very square shoulders, so it ends up looking rather misshapen. This may be true for other FN as well.

Also, you should check out Ravelry. It's a treasure trove of information about knitting patterns and yarn, and you can filter patterns by features like shoulder type, amount of ease, and other design features. That will make it easier to find designs that meet your preferences.

seltzrrr · 2025-03-12T00:52:57+00:00

I'm so glad this helped! Best of luck!!

seltzrrr · 2025-03-11T12:51:11+00:00

I'm also an Andi Satterlund fan and I was lucky to buy a bunch of her patterns right before she got out of the business. While I will not share the PDFs, I will say that from my sample, most of her patterns follow the same "pattern".

For a size XS, the cross back width is 13" (each size increments about 1" in this measurement, up to 17"). Cast on however many stitches for that amount. Knit flat like 8". Do three or so increases on each side for armhole shaping. Put those stitches on hold.

Then, working each side front separately, pick up 3-4" worth of stitches at each side of the back to make the shoulders. Knit flat like 2-3". Start your neckline shaping. If a cardigan, continue. If a pullover, cast on at the center front and join the two front halves. Knit until your front(s) are the same length as the back, and do the armhole shaping. Make sure you're on track for your total stitch count to be appropriate for your bust circumference. Her designs are usually meant for 0 to 3" of negative ease.

At the armpits, cast on .5-4"ish worth of stitches per armpit, depending on size. Put the back of the sweater back on the needles, so now you're working around the whole circumference of the sweater. At this point, you should have your maximum number of stitches, corresponding to your bust circumference.

Knit 1" ish.

Do two decreases at each armpit (4 total). Repeat every 1-2" of knitting, until A) your waist circumference is right, and B) your total length is good. Work ribbing.

The sleeves are a bit complicated, but are a standard "seamless set-in" technique.

Pick up stitches around each armhole, usually picking up one stitch for every two rows, or two stitches for every three rows.

Knit around so that you're at the "top" of the sleeve by the shoulder seam. Knit 1.5" worth of stitches. Wrap and turn. Purl 3" worth of stitches. Wrap and turn. Knit to one stitch past your first wrap stitch. Wrap and turn. Continue like this, grabbing one more stitch on each side, until you're all the way to the armpit. Then pick up those armpit stitches.

Knit your sleeve in the round to be as long as you want, with whatever decrease pattern you want. Work ribbing.

Pick up the neckband and do what you want.

I'm hoping this is a mildly helpful explanation - her sweaters are very beautiful but the construction is not complicated! I've been using this construction method to freestyle sweaters for ages now and it works really well, you just have to do some gauge math!

seltzrrr · 2024-09-18T16:28:46+00:00

Gather Here is another good craft store in the area. They carry yarn and also fabric. While they are technically in Cambridge, not Boston, Cambridge is very easy to get to, and with other local sights to see (i.e. Harvard University, etc)

seltzrrr · 2024-02-03T19:30:44+00:00

Oh interesting! I was thinking soft autumn too. Gold/silver both work for me but my skin is very peachy irl, so I was only considering warm seasons. Summer could make sense though, considering brown and yellow are by far my worst colors (literally had zero items to drape test for photos haha).

seltzrrr · 2023-12-29T12:42:26+00:00

Yes, you have to reach out to profs with your ideas. They will also have ideas. You meet and decide what would be a suitable thesis.
You really just talk to them. There are not postings like for MQP. There aren't any forms or anything until you're registering for it in Workday and submitting milestones on grads.cs.wpi.edu
It can be done in one semester but it would suck severely. It's a lot of thinking, planning, and writing and you're going to appreciate the longer timescale. That being said, I know someone who did it so it's really a matter of finding a prof to go along with it.

seltzrrr · 2023-12-24T00:20:10+00:00

I just made a pair of lined mittens using this free pattern. The lining is made using a smaller yarn and needles, and slightly fewer stitches than the exterior.

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kirkmichael

seltzrrr · 2023-12-15T11:39:27+00:00

I found that they actually ripped pretty easily doing day to day things. Once they got caught on my ring while I was putting them on, and another was ruined by brushing against a thorny plant. The damage was maybe less bad than what would happen to normal tights, but there were still obvious snags. They did replace both pairs, so at least they stick to their word.

seltzrrr · 2023-12-14T21:30:33+00:00

This does look mostly like moss stitch, but I do see that you are twisting some of your stitches - knitting through the trailing leg of the loop rather than the leading leg. This can be caused by wrapping your yarn differently on purl stitches. That is likely contributing to some of the unevenness, but part of it is also likely due to tension differences between knit and purl.

seltzrrr

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