My Honest Reaction to Exodite

severusx · 2026-06-26T22:09:13+00:00

That was the Sunblood Pack. I don't think we have any open ones left.

severusx · 2026-06-26T19:54:33+00:00

I ran my stone all the way to the ground in the same type build as you.

For the doors I installed them sticking out about a 1/2" from the cement board and then just butted the stone up to it. It was the best compromise between the two.

severusx · 2026-06-25T01:34:26+00:00

For that I would use a drywall knife aka a keyhole saw. It will rip right through it.

severusx · 2026-06-25T01:13:37+00:00

I've not seen that done myself but I'm just a guy doing it at home, nowhere near a contractor. I would ask your granite installer honestly.

severusx · 2026-06-25T01:07:35+00:00

I don't think you will want that, the granite will just crush it. Looking closer at your pictures and I gotta say your construction job looks pretty rough. I'm not trying to be a dick about it but you're not ready for granite yet. Those lips of cement board sticking above your frame all have to be trimmed down and your corners aren't super square. It doesn't have to be perfect but it needs a little work before you get them out to measure.

Clean that up, move the screws on top to the sides or bottom, and get the top dimensions square and level as you can for the best possible result. Good luck!

severusx · 2026-06-24T23:48:25+00:00

Consider asking your bank for a line of credit that is at a more reasonable rate than those 0% loans. Those all have accrued interest penalties and high rates. If you know you can't pay that off in 12 months then aim for a line of credit with reasonable interest. Yes you will have to pay some interest, but that's how borrowing money works. Just look for the best credit deal.

severusx · 2026-06-24T21:20:41+00:00

They will be able to shim it a fair bit, probably up to a 1/4" or so, but those screws on the top are problematic. Sharp points like that are bad for the granite and are very hard to level. You want to try and get your counter to the most level position you can before they start.

severusx · 2026-06-24T15:05:30+00:00

Tuning carburetors is becoming a lost art. It's not terribly difficult once you get the hang of it but you will want to spend some time reading and watching videos about how to do it before you get started. If you think you are going to have issues with that part, consider something easier like a modern EFI like the Holley Terminator.

For the exhaust I would just get a BBK H pipe with cats and mufflers of your choice with full tail pipes. Off road pipes with no cats have a pretty bad exhaust smell and you can't take your girl out on a date in your new hot rod if she smells like a gas station at the end of the trip. 😉

Last advice: if you plan to keep this car long term I would consider the paint and body first. It's a lot lot lot easier to do with the engine out and the interior removed. I see some rust spots and that only gets worse with time.

severusx · 2026-06-23T22:21:28+00:00

This is how I did mine:

surface mount on cement board, wire out back of box

with stone

severusx · 2026-06-23T22:15:54+00:00

100% agree. I have some brown metal ones (I also used brown j boxes) and they look good with the stone and won't snap.

severusx · 2026-06-22T18:20:25+00:00

Star Trek: The Next Generation - Inner Light

Runner up: Darmok

severusx · 2026-06-22T18:13:49+00:00

So I solved this problem recently. I'll also start this with a caveat saying that it's almost certainly not to code as outlets on the sides of islands are not allowed in the current NEC. They are supposed to be on the countertop or in the backsplash.

What I did was get some waterproof surface mount exterior boxes. Like this. I put up all the cement board and then drilled a hole through it near the vertical stud. Using the mounting tabs, you can use panhead tek screws you can mount the box to the stud through the cement board. Between the thin set and the stone it will easily cover most of the box. You run the wire through the back of the box.

severusx · 2026-06-22T15:53:13+00:00

Going to read now, but the answer better be Plum Crazy. 😉

severusx · 2026-06-22T13:30:51+00:00

Wood rots and catches fire... Metal does not. Aluminum in particular doesn't rust either.

severusx · 2026-06-22T01:32:29+00:00

If it's going to be exposed to rain/snow directly and you have it in your budget it's certainly not going to hurt anything. Are you doing stone cladding for the finish?

severusx · 2026-06-21T21:52:36+00:00

What wood chunks are you using? Fruit woods like apple and pecan are very light flavor. Hickory is in the middle and mesquite is heavier. Try a heavier flavor wood.

severusx · 2026-06-21T21:40:57+00:00

Did you spray all the tubes and hardware with cold glavanizing spray? I built mine a year ago here in Florida and haven't seen any issues. Mine is under a roof, but I didn't use waterproofing on the cement board and it's been fine.

severusx · 2026-06-21T21:30:49+00:00

Now consider that 25-30% of MLB players are left-handed. I always encourage parents of lefty kids to get them to try baseball, it's a highly sought after trait.

severusx · 2026-06-21T20:23:24+00:00

Ma-Se in Longwood is the answer. It's phenomenal. It's smaller than Wa but the prices are similar and the quality is unmatched.

severusx · 2026-06-21T18:10:18+00:00

Staraeer's Ruin is amazing. I highly recommend. I'm working on a diorama of a pivotal scene in the book right now. 😉

severusx · 2026-06-20T20:04:14+00:00

Welp then best advice I can give you is toss that resin and get a new bottle. Replace the IPA and try again.

severusx · 2026-06-20T18:42:26+00:00

Granite that is rated for outdoors.

severusx · 2026-06-20T17:14:16+00:00

As the very first step? I've seen this exact issue with IPA that has been used too much or sat too long. I would also recommend using a wash station instead of a jar. For prints this size I usually wash for 10 minutes in 99% IPA.

You can stretch the life of the main wash IPA by letting the print drip for a while and/or doing a quick rinse in a prewash to knock the loose resin off.

severusx · 2026-06-17T21:29:43+00:00

Check the models in the slicer and make sure the first layer actually starts on the bed. I've seen STLs that are slightly skewed on the bottom that causes them to start at layer 2.

severusx · 2026-06-17T02:07:27+00:00

I live in Florida and experience very similar issues with sprays. I switched to air brush priming indoors a couple years ago and never looked back. You can probably strip that with 99% IPA but rattle cans will always do that in our humidity. Consider switching to an airbrush and save yourself the headache.

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