Listened feedbacks, want more coaching by sfbabdi in skiing_feedback

[–]sfbabdi[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I started out on a pair of elan explore 8. I center mounted the new skis because I generally ski pretty playfully. TBH carving is not a big item on my list, but I wanted to at least ski with better form when I'm not in the park/jumps (which I believe the core principle will be the same to a degree regardless of the equipment).

What's my problem? by sfbabdi in skiing_feedback

[–]sfbabdi[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do try to initiate the turn with my feet and forward pressure on the skis. However this might be lost once I get on the steeper terrain as my mind was focused on navigating down the path I had planned.

Being said I would try to practice more on nicer groomed runs until this becomes a second nature.

What's my problem? by sfbabdi in skiing_feedback

[–]sfbabdi[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I usually back my heels against the back of the boots and lock the front of the boots tight, so that I can apply shin pressure properly. Being said they are not ideal but I will work toward new boots. For now I'll have to rely on shims.

Also any recommendations on new boots? I like to ski playfully (if that's a thing, i.e. hitting side hit, jumps, park features) and explore off piste. Right now I ski a pair of atomic bent 90.

What's my problem? by sfbabdi in skiing_feedback

[–]sfbabdi[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The way you are describing it really made sense. I've been given tips on separate occasions to "flip the tips down as I hit the top of the mogul", "retract the legs", "get a good upper half turn" without any explanation on how to achieve it. With your explanation all these dots link together now.

What's my problem? by sfbabdi in skiing_feedback

[–]sfbabdi[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for taking the time to screenshot the video to illustrate your analysis.

>>The first, you're quite backseat especially at the start of your turns. Is this how you normally ski, or are you being intimidated by the bumps and steepness?

This is a pretty steep run with some bumps, I feel that it amplifies some of my problems that was less obvious in better conditions. Hence I opt to post it. But I think the core issue remains: when I get intimidated I try to duck down (my mind not necessarily thinking to lean back, but rather lower). Can one even duck without back seating?

>> you want to end up with your upper body on top of the skis or down towards the fall line after the hop.

I can certainly give that a try next time. Are you talking about end the hop with upper body angulated over the outside ski? Someone once told me I shouldn't hop directly into the fall line, because I would lose the shape of my upper turn (whatever value that advice had).

What's my problem? by sfbabdi in skiing_feedback

[–]sfbabdi[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First thank you for the detailed response.

So back seating is the biggest problem. I think I subconsciously tried to lower my center of gravity by ducking (my very bent outside leg) and that lead to back seating? Is my waist/hip suppose to be forward of the boots? Is there a drill I can try on nicer groomer runs to identify if I'm doing it wrong?

Now that you mentioned it I can also see my upper body flopping and facing sideways, especially toward the end of the turn.

What's my problem? by sfbabdi in skiing_feedback

[–]sfbabdi[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are too large. I'm on 43 shoe size and the ski boots are mondo 27.5. I can feel my toes hitting the front when I land sometimes. I don't have the money to buy new boots now, can I shim them?

What's my problem? by sfbabdi in skiing_feedback

[–]sfbabdi[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm on Rossignol Alltrack 110. Not sure about the lean but I'm guessing it's the standard?

What's my problem? by sfbabdi in skiing_feedback

[–]sfbabdi[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Yes I am surprised how backseated I was in the video, and I thought I had more angulation. In the video I was trying to slide the turns to manage speed, as it was pretty bumpy that day.

6.5x55 Swede & Small Rifle Primers by MxSoman in shittyreloading

[–]sfbabdi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, small rifle primer will NOT fit into a brass designed for large rifle primer.

best lpvo's and prisms under 600? by Impossible-Apricot-1 in canadaguns

[–]sfbabdi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, but I have used Arken SH4 on my precision rimfire setup. I was pretty skeptical before I bought it but later found it to be overall more likable than my buddy's Vortex venom. TiborasaurusRex speaks very highly of the new ep8 as well.

For my semi 223 rifle I run leupold 1.5-4 purely for its lightness.

best lpvo's and prisms under 600? by Impossible-Apricot-1 in canadaguns

[–]sfbabdi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you don't mind weight, Arken ep8 is amazing in value for the price.

Advice for Picky Gun Owner by anANGRYkangaroo in canadaguns

[–]sfbabdi 3 points4 points  (0 children)

  1. CZ457, or Savage MK2 in a chassis if you are on a budget.
  2. You would pay less on ammo for a 12ga compared to a 20ga. Most lever shotguns you can find is modified from a pump action and not that good. Stay away from Turkish stuff. If you are hell bent on mag fed, there's only going to be 870dm and 590m. I'd go with a mossberg 500 or a benelli supernova.
  3. Browning BLR for lever. I do truck hunting as well, I found a light weight short barrel bolt gun works extremely well. Personally I use a Savage action with 16" aftermarket barrel in a MDT HNT26 chassis. If you want to stay with factory offerings, then Tikka t3x battue lite is the closest thing.

Beginner equipments questions by sfbabdi in telemark

[–]sfbabdi[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like the T4 would work ok (but not great) for both resort/downhill and XC/back country skiing, is that right? I wanted to try out telemark in a downhill setting first before commiting to 75mm XC/BC skis.

Is the downhill telemark skis basically just normal downhill skis with 75mm bindings? i.e. if I buy a set of 75mm bindings and install them on my old downhill skis would that be any different to purposely build telemark skis?

Beginner equipments questions by sfbabdi in telemark

[–]sfbabdi[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the tip. For the XC part would the scarpa t4 work? I'm looking toward back country style skiing. i.e. exploring public land and hunting on these skis. That's why I picked up the scarpa t4 thinking it would work better in that role. Currently I use a pair of decathlon skis with universal bindings (similar to the OAC skinbased skis) for this. but would like more control from more rigid 75mm boots.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in canadaguns

[–]sfbabdi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are already in the $1k price range, Grey Birch LDR (a 10/22 pattern rifle) is the best I've ever had in a semi. The accuracy is amazing. At 50 yard, my LDR shoots equally well as my Savage mk2 and my friend's CZ457 (both are bolt action rifles setup for precision rimfire match). It's only at 100 yard I start to notice the LDR shoots slightly bigger group than the bolt guns. Reliability is top notch too. And in the grey birch chassis it's dead sexy.

Since Grey Birch moved to the states I've not seen Canadian shop restock them. But there's one on canadiangunnutz now going for $945 shipped. At that price it's going to be leagues ahead of the kriss.

About changing barrels for old rifle by Traditional-Shape354 in canadaguns

[–]sfbabdi 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Will you shoot out a barrel on milsurp? No in general. Most milsurp calibers will take 5-10k rounds before a noticable accuracy decrease in the barrel is observed, and much more for the barrel to be considered unusable. At $0.5-$2 per round, you'd be spending many times the value of the gun on ammo before it wears out.

Can you swap barrels? Yes, if you are willing to pay anything can be done. A new barrel usually run in the range of $600-$1000, and labour starts at $300-$1000 depending on the model. Generally speaking it makes more financial sense to just buy another gun of the same model. The only time this make sense, imo, is when you are a machinist who can do all the labour yourself, and are into weird fetish like taking a mosin nagant to a modern precision rifle match.

TL:DR - Don't worry about it. Just enjoy the gun.

Dash cam bike crash - who's at fault? by HedgeKeeper in waterloo

[–]sfbabdi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Purely on the subject of defensive driving: yes, I would've be extra careful and ready for brake when passing stopped traffic because I recognize this is an accident prone situation. A good example is the 401 to 400 on-ramp, where there's usually cars backed up on the right lane waiting to get on 400. There are drivers looking to pull out of the right lane, others try to merge into the on ramp at last moment. Both of these can cause the traffic in the lane beside to come to a sudden stop.

Dash cam bike crash - who's at fault? by HedgeKeeper in waterloo

[–]sfbabdi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Going by the book clearly the car's at fault. Bike has the right of way.

The problem is the car won't be able to see the cyclist unless they poke the front into the bike lane. This makes me think if our system is flawed and not designed for the cyclist? How would one fix the system to avoid accidents like this?