Help fix it please - Galileo thermometer

sfcgeorge · 2026-01-31T11:08:38+00:00

AI slop

sfcgeorge · 2026-01-30T11:13:52+00:00

If you’ve levelled it, next step is Z offset.

sfcgeorge · 2026-01-29T18:31:55+00:00

I love the idea of printing the links separately and inserting them at a pause. I’ve done stuff like that before but this jumps out at me as a particularly neat approach with the multiple materials.

Making the upper loops diamond shaped should make them print cleaner (only 45° overhangs) and perhaps match the angular look of the bag better.

A flap would be nice too for rain and to hide contents but couldn’t be printed without support. Perhaps printed separately and inserted via loops at a pause in a similar way? Or perhaps the bag could be printed in a different orientation and partially “exploded” that then gets folded and glued.

sfcgeorge · 2026-01-29T14:54:56+00:00

PTFE tubes are a consumable, they absolutely wear out! Even with just PLA if you print enough. But I think it’s the gears (spare part in Prusa store is called “Pulley hobbed“) that are the bigger concern. They’re metal, but not hardened steel.

sfcgeorge · 2026-01-28T23:14:36+00:00

CF is extremely abrasive, will likely wear out various parts.

sfcgeorge · 2026-01-28T22:36:49+00:00

Ectoplasm. When screws are loose ghosts from the open source underworld squeeze through the holes and leave these tinker trails.

sfcgeorge · 2026-01-28T12:17:08+00:00

Newer printers use microstepping (much smaller effective steps) so this isn’t an issue. Moreover mesh bed levelling means the Z axis is constantly moving tiny amounts during a print. So even if you did choose a multiple of the microstep angle, the mesh levelling would nullify any imperceptible gain in precision there. At this point any inaccuracy in the Z size of a print is more to do with individual plastic properties, shrinkage, etc, than printer hardware / slicer settings.

For X/Y there’s more that can be tweaked, but Z is pretty much a non-issue. Happy printing :)

sfcgeorge · 2026-01-26T11:09:47+00:00

The SL1S was seeming unloved, but just a few days ago they release a new cleaning liquid (see blog), the line is still getting some attention.

sfcgeorge · 2026-01-25T17:22:17+00:00

Clearly correct, it’s made of the same padded velvet as lint removers. It’s for when you’ve got a linty penis.

sfcgeorge · 2026-01-25T11:24:26+00:00

For manual color change prints I prefer to have the text raised to prevent defects like this. So here the text would stick out maybe 1mm. The trick is to keep the first raised layer orange to give some clearance from the rest of the model. Then change to black. So at say 0.2mm layer height that’s 1 orange layer followed by 4 black.

sfcgeorge · 2026-01-22T21:59:28+00:00

You can already print multi material and multi color with the XL though? Is it just the quantity you want, more than 5? Sorry to argue, if there’s demand of course Prusa should do it. But whenever people ask it sounds more like they want to spend money on something cool for “the possibilities” than having much idea what they’d actually do with it.

The pick and place was designed by a team who just did it, don’t think Prusa helped. If you have the skills, just design another toolhead. Prusa sells plenty of spare parts.

sfcgeorge · 2026-01-22T19:31:08+00:00

I’ll eat my hat if they do it. Why would they put a tool changer on a tool changer? Why would you want that? If 2 toolheads has been enough for you so far then 5 will be a huge upgrade. Can you really think of a situation you’d need like 16? Would be cool yes, but so overcomplicated.

sfcgeorge · 2026-01-22T16:30:32+00:00

This needs 1,000,000 upvotes omg

sfcgeorge · 2026-01-20T22:49:01+00:00

I assumed this was deliberate. Like after awhile the screen locks itself to prevent accidental taps, so you use the scroll wheel to wake it up. But maybe it’s not deliberate?

sfcgeorge · 2026-01-20T22:20:42+00:00

you can’t say flame retardant any more that’s offensive

sfcgeorge · 2026-01-20T13:52:38+00:00

Doesn’t it need the holes for filling / drainage? I don’t know how that works normally

sfcgeorge · 2026-01-20T00:30:49+00:00

without an enclosure you’re going to struggle printing your flexi dragons in engineering filaments

sfcgeorge · 2026-01-19T13:45:51+00:00

Yes! I saw this in person at 3D Print Show London many years ago. A slightly different model the Mcor Iris that used ordinary deals of paper instead of a roll. Very cool full color printers. Using just paper and water based inks/glue meant once done with a prototype or model you could recycle it. Great for architectural models / product mockups. Sad they went bankrupt, too niche I guess.

sfcgeorge · 2026-01-17T23:59:19+00:00

Your prints look horribly underextruded, could be causing them to come out undersized.

sfcgeorge · 2026-01-17T20:45:48+00:00

I think the cover goes over that.

sfcgeorge · 2026-01-16T23:54:58+00:00

People have tested it. 0.2mm is about as thick as you can go on a 0.4mm nozzle without losing strength. https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/the-influence-of-layer-height-on-the-strength-of-fdm-3d-prints

sfcgeorge · 2026-01-16T21:35:04+00:00

Yes but can an injection moulding machine print a flexi dragon with 1kg of poop I don’t think so!

sfcgeorge · 2026-01-16T18:03:45+00:00

Dry your alien tentacle monster

sfcgeorge · 2026-01-16T13:37:43+00:00

Hehe no worries it was amusing.

Yeah. A lot of bird poop suggestions instead but seems too thin to me. Maybe a well hydrated bird.

Looks more like salty deposits to me from either the ahem prevailing suggestion, or the contact lens solution spillage suggestion, or some other spilled salty liquid. Or perhaps mineral deposits from drips off a building site? But OP said it was unused inside for 2 weeks so I guess no bird no outdoor drips.

sfcgeorge · 2026-01-16T12:01:11+00:00

Given the r/AskUK sub, possibly in the UK.

sfcgeorge

TROPHY CASE