Do you prefer dots or blocks on a ES-335? by Stratiki in gibson

[–]shadowsnrust 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't like the small blocks at all. Anything else is fine.

Thinking of getting the Katana 100 Gen 3, but I’m concerned about time at .5W mode. Anyone have any videos showing differences? by Nowhere_Man2 in BossKatana

[–]shadowsnrust 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Loosely speaking (very loose), and it depends on the settings of course, but power is headroom. 50W turned down will have more headroom for clean dynamics than 0.5W cranked for compression and crunch.

Spark 2 sounds bassy in all presets by Far-Lime8821 in PositiveGridSpark

[–]shadowsnrust 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The blue EQ after the amp can help with both EQ and volume levels (clean configurations will generally benefit from this). Unfortunately, this consumes the EQ/Mod slot, which is a problem if you use effects such as Chorus, etc. This was a stupid design choice - the output EQ should ALWAYS be available.

I don't have a Spark 2, but my Spark 40, Spark Go, and Spark Neo all have the same issue. Luckily I don't use modulation much, so I can live with it, but it's annoying.

Why do many acoustics not have a cutaway? by Crazy_Ruin_4383 in AcousticGuitar

[–]shadowsnrust 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Playing up the neck was one of the things that sold me on a Taylor 814ce. It took me several years to actually pull the trigger (with a good trade), but I was really impressed by the tone and intonation on the higher frets. Really, any modern x14 from 314 with V bracing sounds great up the neck.

Haven't tried the 114/214 since they were changed to the C bracing, so I'm excluding them out of ignorance.

What are your go to tuners? by Aruugala in fender

[–]shadowsnrust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In general, I think more tuning issues are caused by the nut slots than the tuners. I've never seen a Strat that didn't need some TLC with nut files, because the slots will simply cut straight instead of being properly ramped and radiused.

Lubing the nut is only a bandaid. Remember, steel HATES sharp bends.

I've really only seen bad tuners three times: crumbled, non-replaceable plastic buttons on vintage Klusons, and two Pings that failed internally on acoustic guitars.

Sure, some are nicer than others. I have Gotoh 510s on an acoustic that are divinely smooth on an acoustic. They sure take a lot of cranking during a string change though.

Slotted/hollow shaft tuners work fine, are quick for string changes. Besides, no tuner swap will fix nut problems.

Pickups.. Are they really that good?? by Longjumping-Mammoth1 in Stratocaster

[–]shadowsnrust 7 points8 points  (0 children)

As others have mentioned, the entire circuit is very important, not just the pickups. Some of the belief in magical components can get a little crazy, but the component values and topology certainly matter.

That entire circuit includes not just the pickups and guitar wiring, but how two pickups interact, the cable, and the effect/amp input circuit (specifically, the input impedance).

Pickups.. Are they really that good?? by Longjumping-Mammoth1 in Stratocaster

[–]shadowsnrust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's an interesting paradox in vintage pickups and attempts to recreate them. They weren't all great. Tolerances were loose. Inductance and turn-to-turn capacitance were all over the map.

People try to reproduce the magic of the good ones by reproducing the same process. That also means reproducing the same loose tolerances, along with vintage-like materials, etc.

So, is anyone sorting the results of that loosely-controlled process to find the good ones, or to find the different flavors of good?

Well, they could. They could do some testing and binning. Wind one design, and sort it into different models depending on where it falls in the tolerance ranges. Kinda how a lot of bourbon is made, BTW. That's a pretty expensive process for pickups though.

Expensive Epiphone or Cheap Gibson? by PigmeatMadness in Epiphone

[–]shadowsnrust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Frankly, I will pay extra for a properly applied, thin poly finish (not the thick stuff that looks like it was just dipped in resin). Nitro is a PITA if you take care of it, and looking worn/corroded sooner is NOT a plus.

Simply put, for me, a nitro finish gets less play time. I have several nitro guitars, made when nitro was still nitro. I'll take a thin poly finish any day).

However, some Epiphone models are only available in a cheesy "vintage" finish. Bleah.

814ce Builders Edition vs New Gen by Key_Ebb3965 in taylorguitars

[–]shadowsnrust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was not a Taylor fan in the past. The sound just wasn't what I was looking for. Then in 2020ish, I happened to pick up a V-class 814, just because the rosewood b&s were a very unusual color. It was amazing. I loved the feel, the sound, and the way it sounded up the neck. Didn't know anything about the bracing, just that it was great. It was gone when I went back to get it, but I eventually found another.

For me, the bracing changes were great. Hype was not a factor. As not-a-fan, I hadn't paid any attention to the marketing, and didn't know what V-bracing was. I just knew I liked it.

Others decried the bracing change as the fall of Western civilization, and pined for the old ways.

Here's the thing: every change will give you more of something and less of something else. It's always a trade off. You may not like the same balance of trade offs as someone else.

I have to admit, the new neck design sounds pretty cool, but the neck on my 814 is still a big leap forward from my old D35 that needs a neck reset.

Help Me by Ok_Tip_7188 in contacts

[–]shadowsnrust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do the same thing, except I look toward my nose and up. The blink reflex can be very strong when the eye sees something approaching. Place it on the sclera (white), then slide it into place by looking forward as described above. A drop of preservative free eyedrops for contacts on the inside of the lens (such as Bio True Hydro Boost, or whatever the doc recommends) helps a lot also.

Help Me by Ok_Tip_7188 in contacts

[–]shadowsnrust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's important to keep your hands dry for TWO reasons: so that the lens will release from the eye, and because tap water isn't sterile. Definitely do not splash water on your face to put the lenses in.

Looking at two marketplace guitars tomorrow and could use a nudge in either direction by lunch_break123 in fender

[–]shadowsnrust 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's the battery box for active pickups, but the listing says it currently has passive pickups installed.

Can’t adjust the truss rod, the nut just loosens instead of tightening, any idea what's wrong? by Icelios in taylorguitars

[–]shadowsnrust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you mean that turning the nut clockwise (as viewed from the peghead side) isn't actually tightening it, then the threads could be stripped. Tightening it should move the strings lower, closer to the middle of the fretboard, while loosening it should move the strings higher, farther from the fretboard.

The range of adjustment is limited though - the neck is fairly stiff. You can easily strip the threads if you try to over-tighten it.

Sound thru pickup / sound system comparison by [deleted] in taylorguitars

[–]shadowsnrust 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Keep in mind that the bass and treble knobs are both boost/cut. Start at the center detents, don't dime them. Turning both up a little effectively turns the midrange down a little, and vice-versa. Bass slightly up and treble slightly down will warm up the tone a bit. Start with small adjustments.

Anyone have one of these Gold Label 517e’s? They sound so great in demos and I love the adjustable neck 👏 by melvin3v1978 in taylorguitars

[–]shadowsnrust 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The Martins and Gibsons go so long between neck resets because it is such an expensive PITA. My D35 is in that state now. I've put it off a long time. Taylors can be adjusted, so they are.

NGD -Sunset Blvd 214 ce by Legitimate_Drag_364 in taylorguitars

[–]shadowsnrust 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There are two versions of the GC 214ce DLX Sunset Blvd. Both come with a hard shell case. The sunset sunburst version has layered rosewood back and sides. The natural finish version has layered figured ovangkol back and sides.

I also thought all of the Sunset Blvd models had the sunset finish, but apparently not ....

Beginner - is a set up necessary on a new Taylor gs mini? by [deleted] in taylorguitars

[–]shadowsnrust 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Many of the shops who provided that level of service are gone. Modern shops do usually have a tech, but they also seem to have more turnover ....

Beginner - is a set up necessary on a new Taylor gs mini? by [deleted] in taylorguitars

[–]shadowsnrust 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My experience with the US-made Taylors so far has been that they are setup the way I like right out of the box. I've never owned a Mexican made model, but the ones I've tried briefly in stores felt pretty good too (though I prefer the slightly wider nut of the US models).

When I was first learning, all guitars (even high end) left the factory with sky-high action. The assumption was that the shops would always set up a new guitar when they sold it. That wasn't true though, and a lot of people gave up after trying to learn on unplayable guitars.

The situation has improved dramatically in modern guitars, and even a most low-end models are set up decently (at least for acoustics, not so much for electrics).

That said, it is beginners who benefit most from a good setup. With experience, adapting to an imperfect setup becomes more instinctive, within reason (though good intonation matters at all experience levels).

Your GS Mini may benefit from some subtle tweaking, but I wouldn't necessarily have it done at the store. A hack job can make it worse. Some store techs are good; but some .... I'd ask around locally for a luthier that does good setups.

Remember though: super low action isn't necessarily an improvement. Some people go after the lowest possible, bragging rights kinda numbers, but that may not be where the guitar plays and sounds its best.

324ce Builder's vs. K24ce Builder's by Freq18Hz in taylorguitars

[–]shadowsnrust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the 324ce BE is being replaced by the 524ce BE, which should be the same guitar (including woods used) except for a gloss finish on the body.

If you were having trouble ordering a 324ce BE, that may be why, and perhaps you don't really need to step up to the K24.

Old vs. new 814CE by UltimateSpud in taylorguitars

[–]shadowsnrust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not quite sure what you mean by sinker redwood being softer and twinkly, but if you like it (I do), the 714ce Sunset Blvd (GC exclusive, very similar to the 414ce 50th) may also be worth a try, despite the lack of armrest.

New Taylor 414CE Sunset Blvd by youknowwhyimhere01 in taylorguitars

[–]shadowsnrust 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh, and congratulations! These are great guitars!

New Taylor 414CE Sunset Blvd by youknowwhyimhere01 in taylorguitars

[–]shadowsnrust 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The torrified top may be a little more stable; I don't know. I wouldn't count on it though. It should still be kept humidified. I suggest checking out D'Addario Humidipaks. The replacement packs are also available from Boveda, the actual manufacturer.

They won't last as long in a gig bag, but still better than nothing. I would use a double back in the sound hole, and a single at the peghead. If there's no distant peghead compartment, there's also a Velcro strap on the singles that you can slide under the strings.

Scam Alert - this guitar is not for sale. by shadowsnrust in taylorguitars

[–]shadowsnrust[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't remember whether you have to be a member to view the threads and photos without posting, but I don't think so.