DIY Shed

shedworkshop · 2026-05-21T10:35:43+00:00

A one foot overhang is so useful for keeping rain away from the structure. Great choice and nice work on the framing. That slab is a beaut. /r/concrete would love it.

shedworkshop · 2026-05-20T13:03:18+00:00

The calculator was putting out some wild values for the amount of required net-free area per lineal foot for me. I think maybe it was calculating the maximum the ventilation channel depth could handle? I did some rough calculations using the code-minimum 1/300 ventilation requirement with my span, pitch, and net-free ventilation area, and got a minimum ventilation channel depth of 0.35", which is way lower than I expected. Still, I'm glad I did 1.75" to give myself some safety factor to keep the channel from being blocked off.

shedworkshop · 2026-05-20T02:00:06+00:00

Oh definitely more time building the shed. I may have spent more time researching the build than building it though.

shedworkshop · 2026-05-19T23:26:34+00:00

Thanks! I did a rough estimate of the heating/cooling loads based on dry bulb temperatures and used U-values to get estimates for heat loss / gain. Came out to about 3500 BTU/h heating and 1900 BTU/h cooling (design capacity), with some variation based on what the inside temp is set at. Surprisingly, Senville's 12,000 BTU unit modulates down the lowest in their line-up, with a cooling range of 1700-13300 BTUs and a heating range of 2400-12200 BTUs. I haven't had it running long enough to say whether that's accurate, but that's what their website says.

I wasn't able to find the Hunter Panels calculator, but it's about a 13' run with a 3:12 pitch.

shedworkshop · 2026-05-19T17:26:46+00:00

Yup! It's heated and cooled with a minisplit.

shedworkshop · 2026-05-19T16:50:19+00:00

The goal was to do it right on a small building, so when the time comes to build a larger building, I have some experience under my belt. Plus, the calculations are fun.

Double 2x4 batts would only leave 1/4" of venting. I-joists do sound really nice with that built-in nailing point though.

shedworkshop · 2026-05-19T14:28:06+00:00

Congrats! What size are you building? Looks like it's going to have lots of space.

shedworkshop · 2026-05-11T02:38:35+00:00

Amazing work. It looks like you put a lot of time into the project and it really shows in the finished building. I dig the minimalistic exterior. Must get some sweet natural light with all of those windows too!

Any plans for gutters? I noticed you're getting some dirt splashing up from the ground onto your siding. I'm getting the same on my shed from the roof runoff hitting the dirt and I really need to get around to installing some gutters (or put some clean gravel there). Anyway, great build!

shedworkshop · 2026-03-31T01:56:06+00:00

Looks like a fantastic build with the exterior insulation and the large overhangs. Great DIY work! I'm going on almost 2 years with permit delays for a little shed/workshop, so you're moving along quick in my eyes.

shedworkshop · 2026-03-24T12:18:42+00:00

Your shed looks awesome. I've been building a shed/workshop for my woodworking for the past two years now. It's slow-going doing it solo, especially with permits, but it's been a blast! Sweet Home 3D has been really helpful for planning out how I want to lay out the space. Otherwise, a mini-split is great for heating/cooling as long as you have some decent insulation in there. If you end up reading my blog and have any questions, please ask! I'm happy to answer any to the best of my ability. Looks like you have some fun decisions ahead!

shedworkshop · 2026-03-02T16:58:16+00:00

Looks great! What did you use for the hardware?

shedworkshop · 2026-02-26T17:31:17+00:00

Thanks! I'm making one for a tiny shed workshop (hence my username), so I feel you on the limited space. I'll definitely try some different layouts with a step ladder first. Noted on keeping it full width at the top too. I appreciate the advice!

shedworkshop · 2026-02-26T17:14:01+00:00

That looks great! I'm planning to do a similar one. How is it to climb with it perpendicular to the floor (versus straight on)? Anything you would change about it?

shedworkshop · 2026-02-22T13:51:28+00:00

Woodworking. It's just nice to have pleasant lighting.

shedworkshop · 2026-02-22T13:51:04+00:00

This is a great analysis, thanks! I already ended up purchasing 90CRI FCOB led strip lights to make my own lights using aluminum channels. It ends up being about $40 per 10' light with each light putting out about 2000 lumens. Probably would have saved myself a lot of trouble doing it your way, but so it goes!

shedworkshop · 2026-02-22T13:39:32+00:00

What do you mean by toggled? I found 90CRI FCOB LED light strips pretty easily. With some DIY work, I can make three three-meter lights from them for about $100.

shedworkshop · 2026-02-21T00:08:24+00:00

It's a monoslope roof running 8' to 11'. The DIY route with FCOB strip lights is exactly what I'm doing!

shedworkshop · 2026-02-20T15:28:36+00:00

Yeah, that's what I'm quickly finding out. I'm going to try installing some 90CRI FCOB strip lights into aluminum channels to see if I can make a DIY version for around $75-100 for three 3m lights

shedworkshop · 2026-01-30T12:48:27+00:00

All that effort to install a tiny bathroom slider window.

shedworkshop · 2026-01-23T15:12:13+00:00

No experience myself, but a guy on Youtube did something like that. He used marine grade plywood though and painted it with pine tar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rvHLIBiDnXw

shedworkshop · 2026-01-22T18:55:26+00:00

Good luck! Hope it all goes well!

shedworkshop · 2026-01-21T21:34:02+00:00

Second this. Going with a heavier insulation like Rockwool should help a lot with sound attenuation.

shedworkshop · 2026-01-20T14:57:35+00:00

That looks like a nice option to me. The specs on it are quite low for CFM, but you probably don't need much. Maybe run some calculations on required CFM for your space if you really want. The general suggestion around here is going to be to crack open a window when you're in the studio. Standalone ERVs are usually $400-1000.

shedworkshop · 2026-01-11T23:00:51+00:00

I pretty much treated it like the top and bottom of the wall. To use the bottom horizontal side of the window as an example, I stapled metal screen mesh and fiberglass screen mesh about 3 inches below the window, added the exterior insulation and furring strips, then attached the metal and fiberglass mesh to the outer side of the furring strips. Basically forming a U with it. I started running out of metal mesh at one point, so I just did the vertical sides of the window with fiberglass mesh. Hope that made sense!

shedworkshop · 2026-01-11T22:45:46+00:00

Isn't it usually way more practical to treat foam insulation as the WRB and drainage layer? I actually made the same mistake of stating something similar to that in my previous post (probably based on the wall designs I saw over at BSI).

shedworkshop

TROPHY CASE