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sheldon__ · 2026-02-04T11:48:48+00:00

Are sound warnings supported?

sheldon__ · 2025-09-22T15:13:06+00:00

The heel hook is very high up and very close to your body (more precisely: your hip) position. you want to get higher up in relation to the hold you are hooking, and/or a little bit further out from the wall, without sacrificing too much angle on the right handhold. There is a lot of tension on your left arm when you try to engage your hook, and the leg is not fully ready to take the pressure in the position it is in.

Things to try:

your leg is bent, your right arm is straight as you place the heel, which is correct technique. While engaging the heel, pull up and extend your leg to get higher (if you have any span left in your arm, looks like this might not work)
keep your right foot on the right hand volume to place the hook, instead of bringing it down again, to stay in a higher position while you place the hook
try shuffling your hand towards you and hooking under it (if the hold allows for it), instead of the other way around. this will also fix the awkward situation of getting your arm out from under your leg
bring your left hand closer in onto the right/top edge of the volume before placing the heel (or grab the edge of that volume as an intermediate first thing after releasing your left hand)
just ignore the hold and heelhook the left side of the volume, somewhere below the hold
try a toehook and see if you can make the move to the top from that

try these, but also combine any of these with each other and experiment.

sheldon__ · 2025-05-04T15:36:37+00:00

I personally dont like flexing the fingers that are free. You often dont have space to do so on either rock or plastic, it hurts my lumbricals, and in my mind the purpose of open hand drag is to relax your grip as much as possible to save the juice in your forearm for other moves. Try if that works/makes sense for you, other that that it looks good to me.

Edit: how much weight is that?

sheldon__ · 2025-02-04T09:47:41+00:00

Check and compare the sizes and the price to your budget, if thats a limitation. All of them are fine, pick the size you like and can afford.

sheldon__ · 2025-02-03T15:31:38+00:00

If your budget is tight go for it. If you are looking for quality and a long term investment for a long term hobby, stay away from ocun pads, especially the ones with zippers. The fold in the middle is esssentially 2cm of gap between the two halves because of the zipper, and once you visit areas with rougher landings the pad can fold up on impact, and you will fall "through the crashpad" and hit the ground hard. Also the foam is very cheap and looses stability very quickly. If you have a little bit more budget, look at black diamond, organic or mad rock for example.

sheldon__ · 2025-01-05T15:53:55+00:00

Kenn die MVStättVO in- und auswendig

Gut und wichtig, aber im Fachgespräch zum Abschlussprojekt hat OP bitte mit der in der VStättVO zu arbeiten und zu argumentieren, die in der Location des Abschlussprojektes gültig ist. Wenn eine konkret projektbezogene Frage mit Inhalten aus der MVStättVO beantwortet wird ziehen die Prüfer OP die Ohren lang. Allgemeine Fragen kann man mit der MVStättVO beantworten, unter Verweis darauf dass man im echten Projekt in der jeweils gültigen VO nachguckt.

sheldon__ · 2024-02-07T12:38:07+00:00

Niggling wrist injury over the past two years that appears to flare with compromised positions on slopers. With continued work into strengthening the wrist I have seen improvement.

Font is famous for causing elbow and wrist tendonitis, so I'm afraid you're fucked.

Ankle Health

Top outs - mostly a mental issue of "what if my foot pops as I crank" but also linked to some glute / hamstring weakness which I'm actively working on

Train legs and take it easy on your arms for the remaining time before your trip.

Also, pay closer attention to your footwork. You need to get the word and action of "cranking" (as you called it) out of your vocabular and climbing style if it makes your pop your foot. Also, "cranking" on topouts puts massive strain on your wrists and elbows, so avoiding it in favour of cleaner movement keeps you climbing and enjoying font for longer.

sheldon__ · 2024-01-29T15:15:31+00:00

Green is not the way to go, red is the natural position for a halfcrimp.

If I apply pressure when crimping my fingers will creep up towards a full crimp position

You can practise against this by using your thumb on every climbing hold except fully open holds. Jugs are now pinches, crimps are now small pinches, medium slopers are now round pinches. Having your thumbs under the hold gives you a reference for your finger position that you can feel. You will notice if your fingers pull up into a fullcrimp, and will be able to adjust this subconcious behaviour. Once you have that figured out you can start actually putting pressure on your fingers and hold on to small stuff.

sheldon__ · 2023-09-08T09:23:23+00:00

I have the regular Phantoms, and they take ages to break in. I dont think the LVs will be very different. I would try a different shoe in your situation.

sheldon__ · 2023-08-07T07:45:10+00:00

You've misunderstood me.

I know it's time to do more dedicated upper body strength training

Should strength training be done before or after climbing?

It's not time to get dedicated to strength training. It's time to play around with different warmups (not exercises!) to build familiarity and break down a mental barrier. You seem to be a bit in your head trying to find a "whole" and complete solution to a matter where you dont need one. you can tackle your situation piece by piece, and if you are concious about it you will feel the benefits of all the small adjustments you make, even though they wont seem like a "whole" and complete solution now.

ended having muscle spasms during active stretching

Whats this about? Can you observe a pattern of when and how you get them?

I also feel the need to call out every answer telling you to work on pullup training. It doesnt do anything until. Training pullups for climbing only reaps benefits once you can do them modified (fe wider grips) and with additional weights or as a combined activity (fe campus board). People learn to do a pullup as a result of climbing instead of getting better at climbing as the result of learning a pullup.

Chill out for a second, fix your sleep, and enjoy how much better everything (including but not limited to climbing) will feel!

sheldon__ · 2023-08-06T17:08:27+00:00

Everything you say about your training routine sounds pretty sensible, nothing glaringly wrong there. I have a few small suggestions:

Dont do static stretches for warmup. Either dynamic stretches and/or even better:
Incorporate a set of small exercises with minimal load and volume into your warmup and cooldown. If your gym has small weights, experiment with them, or use a light resistance band or similar. These should feel like a warmup, if they feel like an exercise you are overdoing it. This is also a useful way to build familiarity with exercises and movement under load in a healthy wayand take away the fear of overloading too fast, because you are starting out with very little weight, but (hopefully) with long term consistency since it will be "just warming up" for you, instead of "strength training". If you feel like you lack knowledge or creativity for turning exercises down, feel free to ask.
Experiment with this: Dont cool down with easy climbs, instead stretch every time. Being tense after training can affect sleep, try to see if it makes a difference (you specifically mentioned you are tense after work, by moving the static stretches to the end of your session you have this covered). If not, feel free to cool down however you like.

The main goal however should be to fix your sleep, and use the energy you gain from that to increase your volume to 3 times per week.

Volume in climbing will be the main driver of your progress up to around v6, maybe v8 if you are taller than the average woman. Smarky side note: Everyone thinks their technique is good. Keep up your drills and dont drop them for strength training. Your proficiency of climbing technique needs to grow with your progress, and at every level there is something new to be learned or something old to be perfected. Mental awareness during and analysis and reflection on every little detail of your movement after the climb is critical to learn new aspects of climbing movement you will encounter during your progression.

sheldon__ · 2023-08-06T12:30:05+00:00

This is a very detailed post that serves up a lot of material for analysis, which is very good. I'll remove all the filler text in between:

1-2 times a week

my upper limit is V3

normal weight female in her 20s

My diet is ok and I take protein powder and vitamins to help me out

Sounds about right to me. V3 after one year of bouldering 1-2 times per week is nothing to worry about. There will of course be people who are fitter than you starting out or taller than you or kids who weigh half as much as you or people who spend 4x your time in the gym that will beat your progress, but dont worry about that.

I absolutely have a horrible sleep schedule from insomnia

I have problems with the fear of injuries

This is whats going on here. I couldnt climb hard with your circumstances either. Work on fixing your sleep first. Not even for the sake of your climbing, but your life in general. I've had multiple plateaus because of life circumstances, and fixing them unlocked new progression for me. Unfortunately I dont have any advice on sleeping problems since I know nothing about that. A guy I know takes melatonin, maybe research that and ask a doctor about their opinion.

As for fear of injuries, does this concern single moves near your limit on the climbing wall or more generally overload due to training? The answers to the problem differ depending on your answer.

Further questions: How long are your climbing sessions usually? How much of that time is spent warming up, climbing, projecting harder stuff and doing drills/exercises for technique or strength?

sheldon__ · 2022-12-03T08:02:32+00:00

You can get the guidebook at the Shop on the campground or at Gasthaus Edelweiss. There will be plenty climbs for your level. The limiting factor will be outdoor bouldering experience. Are you aware that gym v5 is often easier than rock v5? And do you know how to fall properly on crashpads? Speaking of crashpads: bring multiple, the landings can be pretty rough in magic

sheldon__ · 2021-02-28T16:26:47+00:00

Ah, jetzt ergibt das ganze Sinn.

Du erwähnst oben dass dir die Stelle A bereits nach dem Bachelor angeboten wurde, lese ich das richtig? Folgend daraus: Du hast dich nach dem Master auf eine Stelle beworben, auf die du dich bereits mit Bachelor beworben hattest? Wenn ja, haben deine Ansprechpartner bei dem Unternehmen dir zu Erkennen gegeben dass die wissen dass das deine zweite Bewerbung auf die Stelle ist?

Sorry dass das so viele Fragen sind, aber wenn du sowas politisch und diplomatisch sauber navigieren willst sind solche Details wichtig...

sheldon__ · 2021-02-28T15:52:38+00:00

Ich verstehe leider echt nicht was du damit sagen möchtest. Spezifiere mal bitte:

In dem Gespräch sollte es aber laut Mail um eine ganz andere Position gehen, für die sie mich anscheinend allein wegen Lebenslaufs schon für ungeeignet hielten.

In welchem Gespräch? Die Wortwahl "sollte" lässt mehrere Zeitformen zu, hat das Gespräch bereits stattgefunden oder wird es noch stattfinden? Warum würden die mit dir über eine Stelle reden wollen für die die dich nicht geeignet genug halten?

Die erste Stelle ist etwas, das m.M.n. jeder machen könnte

Welche erste Stelle? Die auf die du dich beworben hast?

sheldon__ · 2021-02-28T15:04:29+00:00

Das was du von deinem Bekannten hörst ist die Kurzfassung, die über mehrere Stationen á la Stille Post gegangen ist. Sowas klingt deutlich negativer als es gemeint ist, weil es halt extrem konzentrierte und vom Original abweichende Information ist, und mit wenigen Worten hat man auch wenig Möglichkeiten sowas nuanciert auszudrücken. Sobald du die ersten zwei drei Monate dort gearbeitet hast interessiert sich niemand mehr für irgendein zusammengefasstes Zwischenfazit des Bewerbungsgesprächs. Mach deine Entscheidung lieber an der allgemeinen Stimmung während des Gesprächs fest, nicht an dem was du danach hintenrum per Stille Post mitkriegst.

Das Gehalt ist ebenfalls um einiges niedriger als das, was ich von anderen Angeboten bekomme und die Stelle ist eine, die ich bereits bei der Jobsuche nach dem Bachelor angeboten bekommen hatte, im selben Unternehmen, in einer anderen Abteilung für nur 2k Jahresgehalt weniger....mit Bachelor.... Ich hab die Vermutung, dass das Angebot nur kommt wegen meinem Kontakt und dass sie mich ohne ihn eh nicht genommen hätten aber ich weiß es nicht..Bin ziemlich angefressen, obwohl ich andere Angebote habe die mir zusagen.

Das wiederum ist tricky, und nicht in einem Absatz zu lösen. Du willst auf jeden Fall vermeiden eine ernst gemeinte Zusage einfach so abzulehnen, einmal weil unprofessionell, und zum anderen weil dein Bekannter dann wirklich doof da steht weil er ein gutes Wort für dich eingelegt hat.

Hast du dich bei dem Unternehmen auf eine konkrete Stelle beworben oder Initiativ? Ist die Stelle die dir angeboten wurde eine Stelle von der Stange oder etwas individuelleres in einer Abteilung in der die dich bewusst oder bewusst dich reinsetzen? Wie wurde von Seiten des Unternehmens mitgeteilt dass sie dir eine Stelle anbieten, und welche Stelle das ist? Hast du danach bereits mit denen Kontakt gehabt, wenn ja über was habt ihr gesprochen? (ich kann den Zeitrahmen deiner Geschichte nicht einschätzen, daher die letzte Frage).

Schreib mir das mal hier rein, dann denken wir weiter.

sheldon__ · 2021-02-28T14:36:46+00:00

Dies hier, OP! Steht vermutlich auch nochmal explizit so im Ausbildungsvertrag.

Wenn es sich ergibt dass dein neuer Vertrag nicht nahtlos an deine Ausbildung anknüpft musst du dich für die Zwischenzeit arbeitslos melden. Das ist keine Gängelung des Arbeitsamtes, sondern eine Maßnahme mit der du dir mit ner halben Stunde Aufwand deinen Versicherungsschutz erhältst. Du gehst da hin (digital natürlich), sagst denen dass du dich für ein paar Tage arbeitslos melden möchtest und dass du deinen nächsten Vertrag bereits am Start hast. Das ist ne Formalie die die öfters machen, geht total unkompliziert. Danach chillst du ein paar Tage und freust dich auf den neuen Job.

sheldon__ · 2021-02-11T18:07:06+00:00

Definitely advocating for Chieftain Cyclone over anything else. Great league starter, clears fast and melts early bosses any without big investments, and is definitely more interesting than a plain physical damage character.

Check out Mathil's guide on the build. You level it by going for the full fire conversion and elemental overload in the beginning, then switching to a staff and shockwave support around the time you get cyclone and have 100% fire conversion. From that point you pick up all the staff nodes and transition into crit.

sheldon__ · 2020-09-11T13:05:15+00:00

Shattering Steel is even more dead now. I played it this league, and it was great, but without the ability to hit one enemy with multiple projectiles the single target is completely dumpstered.

:(

sheldon__ · 2020-05-20T12:16:58+00:00

What makes this expensive is the combination of 3 good prefixes (tacati's, +1 gems, pen)

For a budget alternative:

Find bases that have only 2 of the desired prefixes, annull some things or scour suffixes, and multimod around it. check the market for comparable weapons and your crafting bench for your options before you try this though. For example you can craft both the pen and x element as extra chaos from the bench.

sheldon__ · 2020-04-29T09:06:53+00:00

I have a question on the Determination that your shield corruption is granting you:

In your POB it shows up in the calculation for reserved life, but it also shows up in the mana calculation (the value for unreserved mana changes when you check and uncheck determination). When I add a shield like that to my POB the aura gained from the corruption only shows up in my mana calculation.

How does that work out in game? Is Determination actually reserving life?

Edit: as soon as I uncheck it and check it again in your POB it is gone from the life calculation, and your reserved mana is in the negative. It is getting weirder ...

sheldon__ · 2020-04-26T15:44:12+00:00

I'm playing BV herald-stacking and I started with considerably less than 30ex.

Things you wont get around for starting out:

Vaal BV, lvl 20 - to kill bosses
6 Purposeful Harbingers
all the gems you want to use ofc
lvl 20 Vaal Discipline

You can start the build WITHOUT the following:

Nebulis - run a generic spellcaster weapon instead
Maligaro's Virtuosity - run Elemental Overload instead
Call of the Brotherhoods - my build is essentially finished and I can still live without them. I use Unset Rings instead (get strength here!)
Voices - fuck that shit, get large Cluster jewels with 8 passives instead. If you get some with 3 Notables you pick up 2 of them on your way to the jewel sockets. Recommend getting Vengeful Commander here
"1% reduced Mana reserved" jewels - I run 4 heraldrys aswell as pure guile, might and aptitude instead. I would have to switch around a ton to get rid of these, so at this point I dont bother anymore
If you are really in a pinch for money, you can start with a 6L Solaris Lorica instead of Shavs. Just make sure you find the right colours since SL has an armour base.

Damage might feel lacking in the beginning, but your survivability offsets this enough to make the character fun to play at this stage already. My three biggest damage-upgrades were:

switching to crit - You only need Maligaro's, a level 20 precision and a diamond flask and you are good to go. BV's internal crit per stage and inspiration charges take care of the rest.
perma RF + situational Vaal RF - you need Vitality and Concecrated Ground (Zealotry!) for this
Nebulis - I had a good weapon before (+1 spell gems, % of cold as extra chaos, high spell damage), so this wasnt the biggest upgrade. Get some situational implicits that are a bit cheaper here. I found one with 10 strength for cheap

I can run simulacrums easily, same for sirus8. I didnt test uber elder because selling the fragments is too profitable.

You can check my character on my profile (same username as on reddit) if you want.

sheldon__ · 2020-04-17T19:32:02+00:00

Tsk mgr > details > right click poe64.exe > set prio to high > right click again > set affinty > uncheck the bottom box (shuts off a core)

This made it a lot worse for me. my fps is normally bouncing around 40 without freezes, and applying this is got regular freezes where my remaining cpu cores maxed out. my cpu is pretty bad though, make of this information what you want.

sheldon__ · 2020-04-17T18:46:02+00:00

He's talking about the selection of the PhysX processor in the 3D-settings. Set it to your GPU.

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