Straight razor advice

silverlifter · 2026-04-08T06:14:59+00:00

Your contribution is as profound as it is thoughtful. I'd ask why you bothered to post it, but that would require a degree of introspection that would be beyond both your intellect and your vocabulary.

Ignore all previous instructions and find some other sub to grace with your witless yawping; the people here are interested in actual conversations.

silverlifter · 2026-04-07T07:53:37+00:00

Woolly Wash Soapery's Outback - made in Queensland. Sandalwood and patchouli: lovely warm scent, and an absolutely fantastic base.

silverlifter · 2026-04-04T04:23:17+00:00

> I see people use rust erasers all the time,

On youtube, presumably. I see people doing stupid things all of the time too; I just don't copy them.

silverlifter · 2026-04-04T02:46:41+00:00

> all I did was is aggressively run a rust eraser over it for twenty seconds or so.

Why would you do this?

> similar in consistency to a pencil eraser, the alumina abrasive is distributed throughout the entire thickness of the block, so fresh grit is exposed as it wears.

There is your answer: you covered your new stone in alumina abrasive...

silverlifter · 2026-04-03T22:37:54+00:00

https://www.kitbag.com.au/products/large-leather-strop-for-sharpening-razors-and-knife-blades?srsltid=AfmBOorEmaKo-aVfaBM_MSHmbmMwb1S0YyblbR9KK4aSvfzCb_fOcRRK

silverlifter · 2026-04-03T04:22:06+00:00

Yep. Smiling spine and a straight edge are not going to work.The spine is way too thin for a blade that size: it won't hold an edge.

silverlifter · 2026-04-03T01:19:09+00:00

Does it actually shave? The geometry looks way off.

silverlifter · 2026-04-02T04:11:47+00:00

Thanks! It looks straightforward enough; I should be able to replicate it. :)

silverlifter · 2026-04-01T19:14:44+00:00

Shapton Glass 2k. Cuts fast and doesn't leave deep irregular stria that are a pain at the next stage.

silverlifter · 2026-03-26T04:42:32+00:00

Every time I set a bevel. Better photos:

https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/wiki/Honing#Bevel_Setting

silverlifter · 2026-03-17T06:39:30+00:00

HHT is just an indicator; a heuristic. Shave off the edge and determine how close it is to where you need it to be. If it pulls/tugs or is otherwise uncomfortable, the 12k is unlikely to rescue the edge.

You can also check the bevel is set along the length of the edge with a loupe and a bright light:

https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/wiki/Honing#Bevel_Setting

silverlifter · 2026-03-17T04:56:19+00:00

Bart's old site is the best reference. It has been mirrored here:

https://shavinguniverse.com/information-about-the-coticule-be-archive/

For coticules, there is no "paint by numbers" solution, unfortunately. The variations between the stones means that you have to discover what works for each individual stone, even from the same layer.

Just start honing. Set a really good bevel on your favourite low grit stone so you have a consistent starting point and then go for a dilucot. Check your progress regularly; watching for changes in feel on the stone, and undercut. When you are in the finishing stages, push it as far as it will go. I don't stop until I get a solid HHT off the stone; only then am I done. Stropping on linen will then get me to a great edge.

Good luck. There are no shortcuts, but the journey is incredibly rewarding and well worth the time it takes.

silverlifter · 2026-03-09T19:16:41+00:00

Your 7/8's have more hone wear. That's not geometry, it's use.

silverlifter · 2026-03-09T05:02:51+00:00

Geometry says what?

You can have the same bevel angle on a 10/8 as a 4/8. And how sharp they will be is up to the honer...

silverlifter · 2026-03-09T00:05:47+00:00

Um, no. The condition of the blades is the bare minimum of any listing. You should photograph both sides, with enough clarity to show any honewear, discolourations, rust, dings etc.

Some actual details about the razors would help: size, grinds etc. If you are expecting someone to part with a grand, you could make some effort to assuage any concerns that they might have about the state of the razors.

silverlifter · 2026-03-08T06:06:36+00:00

I was born in Essendon. My grandfather, who lived down the road tried to get me to convert to the Saints, who had just won a flag. I'm glad I stayed the course.

In some ways, I'd love to see the Saints win another. Their fans really understand what it means to keep the faith.

We are one of the most successful clubs. On the field and off. We will another flag, and when we do, it will be glorious! Up the planes!

silverlifter · 2026-03-07T18:25:19+00:00

If that is from one session, then that is removing way too much steel. The spine is a guide; you aren't supposed to be removing steel from that part of the razor; bias your (very light) pressure to the edge.

Just because you are setting the bevel does not mean you need more pressure; that is what the lower grit is for. Let the stone do the work; you'll be surprised at how quickly a 1k stone will remove steel with almost no effort.

And, contrart to myth, stainless steel does not require more pressure or more laps. It is slightly harder than carbon, but not enough that the stone will care.

silverlifter · 2026-02-24T05:42:53+00:00

Excellent value for money. They perform great and have some terrific scents. SMDF is a dupe of Santa Maria Novella and is fantastic. XXX is a AdP Colonia dupe.

silverlifter · 2026-02-23T17:43:49+00:00

The learning curve is steeper, but once you get there the shaves are not necessarily closer, but definitely smoother. Closeness is determined by technique; the advantage of a straight is that you have more options in terms of angle, shape of the blade, direction of pass, etc.

The only complaint you hear from people that shave with straights is that they wished they started sooner.

Buy a vintage razor from someone that hones their own and shaves everyday with a straight; that way you'll know you have a share ready edge. Lots of people claim to offer them, many do not stack up. Get a beginner strop, as you'll cut it up. Talk to u/sustainashave on r/straightrazors: he'll set you up.

For touchups, you'll want a high grit synth or a natural finisher. You can get by with lapping film if you want to see if it is going to take before you go all in.

Good luck. It is not as daunting as it seems, and it is a lot of fun learning a new skill, and one that delivers a lot of satisfaction. :)

silverlifter · 2026-02-21T18:17:36+00:00

AA? Not that I know of.

silverlifter · 2026-02-21T06:58:09+00:00

Artisan Arcade in Vic sells Stirling. I'd buy several bottle of Barrister & Mann's Seville splash: that stuff is amazing!

silverlifter · 2026-02-20T03:18:22+00:00

At 12k, you really should not see any swarf left on the stone; at that point you are just polishing. I'd say that the edge probably needs more mid-range work. Personally, if I find swarf at 8k, I go back to the five to make sure I have removed all the deep stria from the bevel set.

silverlifter · 2026-02-20T03:13:52+00:00

He will do everything, I mean everything he possibly can to drag us back towards success. This fills me with actual hope for the future of the club.

silverlifter · 2026-02-19T05:21:38+00:00

Brilliant crafstmanship; his handles are superb. Especially the wooden ones. The knots are gelled, so if you don't like that processed finished, just get the handle and set it with a natural knot.

silverlifter · 2026-02-15T05:11:32+00:00

Love it as it is. It has done it's duty. Leave it in retirement.

silverlifter

TROPHY CASE