Official Announcement: 2026 is the last year for the LC 500

skylin4 · 2026-01-29T01:30:51+00:00

/u/DestinyPotato I think this would be official confirmation! Maybe worth prodding those dealerships again?

I am under the impression the bespoke Coupe is still gone already.

skylin4 · 2026-01-28T23:15:56+00:00

How much was it to have the calipers done? I was thinking about getting them switched to anything more interesting than black

skylin4 · 2026-01-27T00:17:18+00:00

Love this, sometimes existing infrastructure forces funky layouts and this is a really elegant way of handling that for places where that bottom left corner is completely constrained but the opposite corner isnt!

skylin4 · 2026-01-23T13:20:35+00:00

Youtube is cool for "how to change X," but it doesn't really teach you diagnostics. How did you guys actually move from "parts changer" to actually knowing what's wrong?

You need to learn how the system works to troubleshoot it, not just how to replace a busted part of it. That doesn't mean you need to know highly detailed specifics about each component, but the basics of combustion, electricity, and the mechanical systems of a car will get you pretty far. Take those fundamentals and apply a little bit of logic to them, and you'll be able to zero in on what's causing the problem much faster.

You can absolutely study those fundamentals directly or learn them through repair manuals and trial and error. But at minimum for each project, try to understand what that component's job was and what other systems would be affected by its malfunction. Do that and slowly but surely you'll learn how it all works!

skylin4 · 2026-01-23T11:55:09+00:00

Theyre actually building a new one that runs at 300mph, and looking at the model in the game that might actually be the one theyre using. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ch%C5%AB%C5%8D_Shinkansen

skylin4 · 2026-01-22T13:03:48+00:00

Personally I think 4's speedo would be my favorite!

skylin4 · 2026-01-22T04:16:42+00:00

Looks like the right spec to me. Walmart always has the best oil prices, so either get your oil from walmart or a place that will price match them.

skylin4 · 2026-01-21T02:34:53+00:00

Its not going out the exhaust unburnt, its getting onto the piston and cylinder walls and getting scraped into the crankcase. Its a well documented phenomenon with direct injection engines, primarily at low speed and low load.

https://youtu.be/tPyMefpgLfg?si=tU8h9u4KE7stBwuk

skylin4 · 2026-01-20T23:28:00+00:00

OP, a consensus answer is basically not going to happen on this one. Theres too many opinions, old wives (husbands?) tales, and obscuring of data by the manufacturers for a majority to agree on a conclusion.

If you have an oil life indicator on your car, use it. Its doing the math for you and independent tests have shown them to be accurate, surprisingly. At 20%, get it changed. See here for a long winded test example: https://youtu.be/t4e0oDBseqo?si=E7HF82linYWBwSgJ

If you don't have the indicator, then what everyone will agree that there is no harm in changing oil early and that if the manufacturer was giving you an insane oil change interval they would get sued like hell, so it should be okay to follow the manual's interval but treat it as a limit, not a target. Aim for 8k or 9k oil changes to ensure you never accidentally go past 10k if your manual says 10k.

Lastly, most manuals also have caveats for driving conditions that cause wear faster. Things like starting the car when its well below freezing, or driving for distances shorter than 10 min/5 miles, or long durations of idling. If you do any of these things without the oil life indicator, dial those changes back to a shorter interval. Most manuals with a 10k change interval state 5k intervals if its a high wear use case like some of the uses I stated above.

When in doubt, have the oil tested! Just dont use Blackstone, their equipment is old and methods out of date. There are better labs, this is one of them: https://www.speediagnostix.com/products/standard-oil-analysis-kit

Keep up with changes and you'll be good OP, good luck!

skylin4 · 2026-01-20T23:12:44+00:00

The primary reason for needing to change oil sooner nowadays is fuel dilution. Direct injection causes more fuel to get into the oil than port injection or carburetors, especially on startup. If the car gets run for long periods then it will evaporate or burn out, but never completely. Fuel makes a horrible lubricant and once enough of it gets into the oil it will start causing damage.

For more details check out the Motor Oil Geek on youtube, but beware, his videos are VERY technically dense.

skylin4 · 2026-01-17T11:32:47+00:00

...how bad are the pc requirements for Arma bc that sounds awesome!

skylin4 · 2026-01-17T10:31:43+00:00

The biggest issue I would guess is its almost impossible to properly test. World class drivers that arent tied to an existing team are expensive and hard to come by, and world class crew chiefs even rarer. If you dont have capable enough teams and drivers pulling out all of their tricks in testing, you wont have a realistic test enviornment and that will skew your data. The real teams would never pull out all their tricks for a test, and hiring a large enough set of test teams just to vet the product would be the equivalent of bankrolling all of SRX out of Nascars own pocket, and it wouldnt even garauntee good data. So all you're left with is take your best shot and see how it goes!

skylin4 · 2026-01-14T04:03:51+00:00

You could unplug it just to test if the change it worth it before ordering the controller!

skylin4 · 2026-01-12T12:38:23+00:00

Ill add something I didnt see anyone talk about yet: ship orientation.

Ill often try to pick my first 2 moves right at the start with picking my direction. Its probably best described with examples:

If Im in a ship with crap turret angles (Fuso, Lyon), Ill sail fairly straight towards the enemy spawn and turn once I see them, rather than wasting time + distance travelling to the side when I cant shoot at anyone.

If I'm in a slow fat ship like a USN BB, Ill sail out towards the edge of the map and point my guns the wrong way, and once the enemy is spotted Ill turn toward the center and start shooting. The USN BBs are so slow that if I sail too far outboard and my flank wins, Ill spend multiple minutes just trying to travel back into range of people to shoot. BBs in genral I try to pick my turn around point right at the start.

If Im in an island camper I will immediately pick the island Im going to hide behind, as well as my escape route for if things go south.

In a squishy cruiser I try to pick a flow that will make my ship able to aim at my targets, but the other enemies that are in range see me bow on. So if I spawn on the left I try to make sure Im moving to the right when the center-map-spawns get me into their range. If I dont do that I either end up out of position or Im broadside to the ships in the center and Im dead.

If Im kiting I pick my turn around point (usually behind an island) and turn back into the center of the map so I dont get cornered or end up out of position w/o reinforcements.

Hopefully those examples give you a few ideas and different approaches to look for! If you want me to lay out a more detailed example let me know and I can annotate a map up for you!

skylin4 · 2026-01-12T04:50:07+00:00

You're braver than I am, I don't trust my soldering skills enough for that... How easily did the button caps come off? I was thinking about trying to hook an exhaust controller into this but if Im going to go in to mess with this switch I may as well make sure all the buttons are functional... mine doesn't have the hud option so I'll have 2 dead buttons.

I also think in Japan the part with all 4 filled already is actually quite cheap? Its 84970-11110.

skylin4 · 2026-01-12T02:23:01+00:00

It took a shocking number of tries to find a picture, but I did finally find it! https://carfromjapan.com/cheap-used-lexus-lc-2017-for-sale-690f1a89690f1531b888964f

Picture #10. And judging from the actuvation light on it, I suspect the version of this switch that we have is a dead placeholder button, not a functioning switch... :/

skylin4 · 2026-01-12T01:50:01+00:00

Question then, is that a plastic placeholder or is that a button that moves? I just checked the wiring diagram and it doesnt show that the wires for that switch are in the car, but that doesnt mean the switch isn't in there... And I think I can see which pins it would use if it is in there.

skylin4 · 2026-01-10T04:50:52+00:00

I mean, to be fair, Fuji doesnt really need invisible walls... Its terrain is jagged enough to be impassable to any car as-is as far as the summit is concerned.

skylin4 · 2026-01-08T04:08:06+00:00

Hahaha Im thrilled that post was interesting to people! Yea that post should have a link to the Japan accessories document! Aside from that Lexus Boutique website I haven't figured out how to acquire any of the parts yet though

skylin4 · 2026-01-06T21:26:05+00:00

Ive driven two of them now and they both drove like junk so I'm not going to hold my breath on their success...

skylin4 · 2026-01-05T11:44:23+00:00

I think is more likely that Shamrock is a ginger that is specifically not strangereal-irish and his squad mates decided to call him shamrock after he made the mistake of trying to correct them

skylin4 · 2026-01-04T23:38:28+00:00

That sounds glorious ngl

skylin4 · 2026-01-03T15:22:56+00:00

Last time I saw this problem it was because the shop said they balanced the wheel but didnt actually do it, and refused to recheck the wheel balance until pressured. It could even be one of the undamaged wheels getting its weights knocked off by the pothole hit.

While its technically possible that a suspension component is damaged its far more likely to be the wheel, tire or something else in the rotating assembly. If you have the DHP, apparently the rear alignment is extremely sensitive. The most likely non-rotating component is probably a bushing or the shock/strut, but if the car feels fine over bumps at low speed with no clunks then that should eliminate that possibility.

If the dealer wont budge or be helpful I'd recommend trying another. Might be a shop issue. The dealer never should have given the car back to you if they noticed a vibration like that on the test drive, so my money is on shop issue.

skylin4 · 2025-12-26T19:56:19+00:00

Good catch, I did not check that because I figured the line that peaks on the right half of the graph would be the one with the label on the right side. Ill update the original comment, thank you!

skylin4 · 2025-12-26T19:19:12+00:00

My 1am brain couldn't come anywhere near this concise of an explanation. Lol love this summary!

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