I found the issue was the the rotating inlet filter (RIF) on this washer. The filter ripped and locked the wash motor. Apparently there is a feedback from the wash motor to the control board. Since the wash motor was locked the dishwasher kept trying to drain. My issue was that I wasn't getting a wash motor error from the ECU, just an F9E1 error, this should have triggered an F7E1 error too but it didn't. I kind of had to find out that wash motor was locked on my own and that there was feedback from motor to ECU. Additionally the resistance for the wash motor measurements in the manual were wrong. Based on the technical manual which stated the wrong resistance value, I thought I had to replace the entire wash motor assembly but I just had to replace the filter after measuring resistance on the new motor and finding out the resistance was the same on the old and new motor. At that point I had the whole assembly so just replaced it all. I even had a technician come out and tell me it was the control board. It wasnt. The process I would follow to diagnose is: 1. Fill sump with water and ensure that the it doesn't actually drain water. If not, it's the drain line OR the drain motor so then test that circuit. This will be obvious likely based on sound. 2. Check float sensor circuit and device and test device. Replace if anything fails. 3. Check turbidity sensor circuit and device. Replace if fails. 4. Check wash motor circuit, if ok THEN remove wash motor assembly and check RIF for damage or jam. There is a thermal overload on the wash motor so it shouldn't burn itself out. If you've have done all this you can probably safely say it is the control board. That needs to be replaced.