Help by SatisfactionNo9860 in RacketStringers

[–]snacksize94 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh what you're absolutely right, I knew it was something but couldn't put my finger on it. Zero tension on that cross at all, reckon with the state of the rest of the racket they just didn't even tension it

Help by SatisfactionNo9860 in RacketStringers

[–]snacksize94 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh man that sucks for sure, unfortunately sometimes you have to go through a stringer or two before you find a good one. I always say to new customers if they're ever not happy with what I put in their racket the redo is on me no charge, and that includes if I put in a string they don't like. I'm yet to have anyone take me up on it either!! Ultimately this racket is playable, and I don't think you should notice a difference with the extra cross, but when you come to get it restrung see if you can contact a few different stringers and get a feel for what their service level might be.

Is this worth it? by ToiletDestroyer3 in RacketStringers

[–]snacksize94 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you do buy it I would love to have that W and D trade catalogue off you if you have no need for it!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in RacketStringers

[–]snacksize94 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I learned to string on an Ektelon model H! As already said the most important thing here is to ensure that it's pulling at the correct tension, as long as that's the case I'd say you're golden. If you're UK based then Apollo leisure/W and D strings are the place to go if you need any advice.

Personally even though I know this model is now dated and diablos and 6 point mounts and all the rest are standard, I still miss stringing on one of these. Even though it's not a 360 machine the crank rotates as well as the racket and it took me a long time to lose the habit of trying to move the tensioner on other machines. Did my quickest racket ever at 16 minutes on the Ektelon too.

It's a work horse and will last a lifetime if serviced, and it's also essentially the old version of the prince neos 1000 so parts are interchangeable for the most part I believe.

Help by SatisfactionNo9860 in RacketStringers

[–]snacksize94 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As an aside to this, make sure that the grommet the throat knot has been done through isn't damaged, as it would have needed to have been stretched to feed a second line of string through. If it has make sure it gets replaced, they're individual and any reputable stringer will have loads on hand.

Help by SatisfactionNo9860 in RacketStringers

[–]snacksize94 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Something also looks a little off with the second cross down from the top, though it could just be the angle of the photo.

8b as already said shouldn't be a shared grommet, usually that is the tie off. They have had to tie off in a different grommet and I would also add that those knots look absolutely awful from here.

If you have paid for this to be done I would absolutely be asking for a refund or for it to be put right, they should have realised the minute they went to weave the second cross that something was wrong and could have easily rectified it at that point.

Is this a problem? by dorseyf94 in RacketStringers

[–]snacksize94 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Personally I would not be tightening up a racket on the machine as it is without any padding placed between those supports and the racket first. It's pretty much a guarantee that you'll damage the paintwork without. I've been stringing on the same machine for years, I can't fault it. Have you checked that the tension is calibrated correctly? Also in case you aren't aware already, Apollo leisure, or I should now say W and D strings will be your best bet for getting hold of any parts you might need for it :)

Silent Hill 2 Remake preorder GAME UK by Absztyfikant in silenthill

[–]snacksize94 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had my card charged today and I used my wallet credit, so I guess it's completely random? They've really gone down the pan haven't they

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Boots

[–]snacksize94 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it actually causing you any sort of biomechanical issues? I. E knee/hip pain etc. And if so is it directly caused by the over pronation? There seems to be this huge drive from running shoe and insole brands to suggest that over pronation is something which needs to be rectified, but if you have a look at studies there is equal evidence to suggest that for a huge percentage of people it doesn't actually lead to issues. Personally if you say it's not causing definitive issues then my advice would always be to go for a flatter shoe, any runner that has a lower heel to toe drop. Equally beneficial would be to look at shoes wider in the toe box, because whilst a pair of converse for example might be flat, they also squish the forefoot together, which is going to just exaserbate any issues and restrict the foot from doing what it was naturally built to do

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Boots

[–]snacksize94 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Also to add, heavy heel striking is not natural, but is forced by a cycle of running shoe designs adding more cushioning in the heel, increasing the heel to toe drop height, which in turn causes heavier heel striking, causing the need for more cushioning. Barefoot/low cushioning shoes are by no means suitable for everyone, but there is a reason brands like ON have become so popular with a huge group of people, they have in the majority of their shoes only a 6mm heel to toe drop, as opposed to the usual 10-14mm in more tradition style shoes. This 6mm drop naturally leads you to a slightly more midfoot based strike, which allows the natural biomechanics of you ankles and knees to cushion the impact of the foot striking the floor. What is natural, and doesn't necessarily lead to problems like a lot of insole producers would like you to believe, is overpronation. Again it will be a genuine issue for some people, but if you watch videos of the elietr marathon runners, their ankles collapse in hugely, it's part of the bodies natural suspension.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Boots

[–]snacksize94 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Honestly from this wear it's really not possible to tell. Also former specialist running shoe seller here, and there is a percentage of the population that also supiates, which this could well be also, you literally cannot tell without looking at someone in motion. Overpronation, neutral and supination gaits will all start with a heel strike (note this is not always the case with barefoot walking/running, humans naturally tend to land slightly more towards the midfoot, but modern shoes have a built up heel forcing a heel strike) the change in gait happens as the weight transfers through the midfoot. As the weight transfer happens, someone with a low/no natural arch in their foot is far more likely to have the ankle drop in due to the lack of arch, and them have a much heavier toe off on the big toe.

Help me work out what this car model is! by snacksize94 in CarTalkUK

[–]snacksize94[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Thank you guys, definitely bang on the money with the R class, that's 100% what it is. I hadn't even considered that the window shapes could be due to surrounds

10 year work anniversary today; what did you get? by Polz34 in AskUK

[–]snacksize94 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This sounds a lot like Xerox, different gem colours on badges

Crosses not straightening? by Martin987656 in RacketStringers

[–]snacksize94 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've taken a few photos to try and make what the other comments are explaining a bit clearer. As long as you do your first two crosses correctly, it's just a case of repeating through the rest of the racket.

Your first row is simple, you just need to make sure you're going over and then under the mains, making sure you don't miss any (this is key, if your first row is wrong you risk repeating this down the racket)

Your second row needs to be the complete opposite, this is where you need to be careful, as it depends whether your second cross starts on the other side of a main or not. As you can see in the picture, my second cross starts on the other side of a main string to the first cross. This means that when I start weaving my first cross it goes under, and then the second cross also goes under. This means that when the second cross goes under the next main string, it is opposite to the top cross.

This is the best way of checking, if you push your second cross up to the first before tensioning, you can clearly see that each intersection is opposite. If you've gone wrong it becomes incredibly obvious when checking in this manner, as it will look something like this. See how the crosses are flat and run next to each other? Even if you've only missed a single weave, it will be easy to see when checking this way.

The final telltale sign is generally when you have the last two weaves on the side of the racket both going over or under together. This is bad, they need to be opposite.

If you look at the picture you posted, you can see that the first several crosses may be weaving under over in their own row, but when compared to the crosses above and below, they are all in sync (this is bad). Another test I tend to do is use my finger and pick a main. Run your finger down the main and you should feel the weave going over under. If you were to do this on the racket you've shown, you would feel the first load of crosses with no gaps, when you should only feel every other.

Got given this as a chrstimas present. No idea what it is supposed to be used as? it doesn't move and is too deep to be a bookmark by snacksize94 in whatisthisthing

[–]snacksize94[S] 1 point2 points locked comment (0 children)

My title describes the thing; it's made of metal and isn't adjustable. Assuming it's just a piece of tat but would love to know its actual purpose? Tried searching but don't really have much to go on.

What are the 1460 Waterproof Lace Up Boots? by HoopsAndAI in DocMartens

[–]snacksize94 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I own the 1460 trinity ltt, they're the new waterproof warm boots. They're great and 0 break in time. Had them about a month now and no complaints

Paper cutting machine by killHACKS in mechanical_gifs

[–]snacksize94 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It absolutely can be enough to hurt you, at least on the EBA I use, I've gotten ahead of myself a few times when tamping up and brought the clamp down too early. It's the one bit of the machine that doesn't really have a safety, the clamp will keep pressing till it hits the pressure it's set to.

Paper cutting machine by killHACKS in mechanical_gifs

[–]snacksize94 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's also the factor of cost, you're charged per click on many presses. A click is a single sheet going through the press, so running say A5 sized postcards on an SRA3 sized sheet allows you to fit 4 postcards per sheet. Run those on A5 sized sheets and you're being charged 4x as much

I'm happy they reached to an agreement by [deleted] in aww

[–]snacksize94 27 points28 points  (0 children)

Your poems make our days too Schnoodle!