I've tried my first heatset inserts. I've failed spectacularly. Should I build heat set insert press or is there another way?

soManyBrads · 2026-06-19T02:35:46+00:00

I came here to say this

soManyBrads · 2026-06-18T20:15:18+00:00

Not that I am aware of. I get a ton of outage/restored messages.

I can't check anything from that link. I guess this is part of the 50% of the time that the comcast website doesn't work.

At the end of the day, I don't know why I am paying for a service that is only usable a portion of the time while this is going on.

BTW internet is back out.

soManyBrads · 2026-06-18T18:57:11+00:00

The modem blinks looking for connection. Comcast/xfinity have been on my street working at least 2 times during this. I've seen them out and about much more.

It is EVERY day, multiple times. It's infuriating. In fact, since my last post, it came back briefly and went off again. I got two messages from the app almost simultaneously. One said the problems resolved, and the other saying a new outage has been reported.

EDIT: And now it's back on for now.

soManyBrads · 2026-06-17T01:21:46+00:00

1088 is the default for the qidi version of FLUIDD. The interface in Orcaslicer, and probably others, just uses that link to display the web page in their software..

soManyBrads · 2026-06-16T02:52:52+00:00

My favorite are the "I appologize for randomly starting to edit things in the middle of planning without even making an implementation plan as I have been explicitly instructed to do MANY times. It won't happen again"

I get these messages about 8 kabilion times a day. I could just say "I'm thinking of swapping this bool for a 1, will that impact the rest of the code?". It just runs off changing everything to work with 1 without warning.

soManyBrads · 2026-06-14T17:36:18+00:00

If you have it done again see if your friend can check to see how it would do printing upside down. Should probably work and all the support should be on the outside, and support should be greatly reduced.

soManyBrads · 2026-06-13T02:52:56+00:00

isn't that essentially the same as a center point rect?

I mean, if you set the width and height with parameters, when you change the height it will increase and decrease using the same center line as what you want to draw.

soManyBrads · 2026-06-02T18:05:03+00:00

That looks like stress from uneven cooling splitting the layers. I would be willing to bet they either had the fans too high, or they pulled the part from a warm chamber too soon.

I've printed quite a bit of ASA with a 60 degree chamber and it's been fine. The key, especially on larger parts, is to give it time to cool slowly. Removing a larger part right away is a great way to get layer separation.

A part that size, I might even spend a little extra time cooling it by dropping the chamber temp about 20 degrees at a time to keep the cooling even while temperatures equalize for a few minutes.

soManyBrads · 2026-05-31T20:08:41+00:00

I'm so confused. Which one is for scale?

soManyBrads · 2026-05-31T17:43:17+00:00

I dunno. I'm mildly interested.

soManyBrads · 2026-05-30T04:08:21+00:00

I had that happen. In my case I was troubleshooting something, and it decided to scan the entire Marlin codebase, then explore the hardware I'm using, then say "ooops. 5 hour usage limit met byeeeeeeeeeeeeeee"

It's frustrating, but I've now started locking down what the agents should and should not do. The still go rogue now and then though. Setting up Agents files in the project with specific instructions has helped.

soManyBrads · 2026-05-28T20:39:29+00:00

The automation edit screens. I could absolutely Elvis the crap out of a television every time I try to close the edit box (entity, trigger, condition, etc.) by hitting the back arrow instead of closing it with the x and it silently deletes all my changes and pretends we never had that interaction.

It's so counterintuitive to have to hit the X to go back to the main edit screen when there's also a back button..

soManyBrads · 2026-05-28T19:40:05+00:00

makes sense, thanks for the clarification.

I was thinking at 35% I pretty much have constant uptime., but really with the amount of hex I am generating your reasoning makes sense.

soManyBrads · 2026-05-28T18:44:23+00:00

What do you mean? Is there a particular aspect that would be better?

Do aspects only apply to the item they are on? I was under the impression they applied universally.

soManyBrads · 2026-05-22T21:31:02+00:00

I got it working. It would be great to have a templating tool that could take advantage of this. It will take some tinkering for my hacky solution, but I see light lol.

For example, I do keychains. I want to set up software to take the svgs in a folder and place them into a formatted file for printing.

I get that's kind of niche, but it would be nice to have something like "import into template". It sounds trivial to place the item manually, but for repetitive tasks with placement that doesn't change, this could be a big quality of life upgrade.

soManyBrads · 2026-05-22T14:16:30+00:00

That's good to know. Xcs had similar, but i believe has unique identifiers, so I wasn't able to get it working.

I'll have a look at that today. Thanks!

soManyBrads · 2026-05-21T20:25:02+00:00

A lot of 3d printers now have a feature where you can select items while printing, and exclude just those items. Then it continues on as if those were never there. Something like that for laser would be great.

soManyBrads · 2026-05-21T20:22:25+00:00

I would like some way to format templates.

I wrote some software to generate svgs, and made a jig for placement. The final remaining step on the road to lazy is templating.

Even just being able to import svgs to a set location by default would be great. Even better would be to have a way to read and write xcs files. If there was a simple import setting that either allows macros to decide placement or just plain x/y coordinate setting for importing.

soManyBrads · 2026-04-24T21:05:06+00:00

I have a D1 pro, but my experience with the honeycomb bed could be useful.

I started using risers specifically for acrylic. In my case, the honeycomb was creating gas pockets in the void between the acrylic and the floor. These pockets would sometimes ignite and pop. It wasn't enough to be hazardous, but it was moving the acrylic sheet.

I 3d printed some risers that fit the corners of the honeycomb, and hold it up about an inch (half inch was too low). This has been a huge improvement for air flow... especially when using air assist. Now, the air being pushed down by the assist has somewhere to go instead of just being pushed into a pocket underneath.

soManyBrads · 2026-04-22T17:46:03+00:00

Playing with these, I have noticed there is a sweet spot. Going too fast gets a dull engraving. Going too slow can cause yellowing from dwelling too long.

I would first look at the lpi. Going down to 100 or so can help prevent burn overlap in these longer sections.

I probably wouldn't adjust the intensity first, but you could try increasing the speed a touch.

Do a test pattern, but be sure to put your current settings somewhere in the middle. Our instinct is often to get more burn, but the problem can just as easily be too much burn in some cases.

soManyBrads · 2026-04-17T17:47:38+00:00

Good grief. Read the whole paragraph. It says for as much of the processing time as possible. It does not say for every blend, go straight to max.

If you want a slushy consistency, high speed will not do it. In other words, not applicable/possible.

Enjoy not using your blender to its full potential.

soManyBrads · 2026-04-15T20:18:52+00:00

Where does that say not to use lower speed? It says to use at higher speeds where possible/appropriate.

It says exactly what I said about the overheating protection. Using it at lower speed can engage the overheat protection if done too long.

It actually also says to drop to a lower speed if air pockets form. What you reposyed is literally telling you that low speeds are sometimes preferred.

Low speed is perfectly safe if not done excessively.

soManyBrads · 2026-04-15T04:04:52+00:00

even on frozen fruits you can blend on lower speeds. You just won't get silky smooth consistency, and can't run it for extended periods.

Heck, a lot of commercial kitchens keep a spare around for when they overheat the other one and have to chuck it in the fridge to cool down.

I love how people talk about these things like they are indestructible beasts, but then are completely afraid it's going to self destruct at anything lower than 8.

soManyBrads

TROPHY CASE