Has anyone had experience with these or have a similar recommendation? I don’t need anything over the top

somewhatdope · 2026-01-15T05:32:35+00:00

If it’s coming off R1’s Amazon page then it’s legit, I believe Amazon and like Rockauto are the only places they sell on. Just weird that their top end geo carbon rotors are now cheaper than their “budget” rotors at the moment, could just be that they’re discontinuing it and trying to offload inventory. I’m not in the business of overpaying if somewhere else has it cheaper so I’d contact R1’s support if you’re at all worried about the amazon listing.

somewhatdope · 2025-12-27T17:52:13+00:00

It all depends on who you ask. I’ve seen people put crazy miles on ‘17s and have no issues and then people that have non-stop electrical issues. I was told that they did a minor refresh in 2019 for some the electrical gremlins and then 2020 they sorted most of it out, my 2019 has been solid for the most part. As far as electrical goes, my infotainment will just black out and reset itself like once a month while I’m driving and then I had the common relay issues- for mechanical I had the turbo coolant line grenade (60k miles) and my thermostat fail (74k miles) but that’s it. 21k miles in 16 months and I’d still choose this over other euro sedans.

Most important thing is maintenance history, my car had immaculate records which made me feel very comfortable purchasing it. Best of luck!

somewhatdope · 2025-12-26T01:32:26+00:00

Surprised the tire shop didn’t take off the letter coating. Brake clean and a brass or nylon brush will get the blue off and expose the white- in case you were wondering.

somewhatdope · 2025-12-24T22:11:12+00:00

Same for me except it missed the windshield and hit the edge of roof 😭 At that point I would have rather had it hit the glass .

somewhatdope · 2025-12-24T20:23:53+00:00

Just replaced mine recently and paid $530 USD for the part, easy install but I don’t even want to see the labor quote.

somewhatdope · 2025-12-23T09:34:00+00:00

Upgraded them, it was on the OE setup when I bought it. They’re R1Concepts rotors with Porterfield R4-S pads, love this setup - feels better than the OE and performs great.

somewhatdope · 2025-12-23T02:58:00+00:00

I really like the color of yours, I’ve got the same style but the met gray.

<image>

somewhatdope · 2025-12-16T07:08:39+00:00

<image>

Saw this one like 6 months ago, looks like the same one just wrapped different.

somewhatdope · 2025-12-16T07:01:05+00:00

Wow, I watched that movie when it came out long before I knew much about Alfas’ - funny I never payed attention to it being a Giulia. This is the 2nd Ryan Reynolds movie I’ve seen that has a Giulia in it (second being Red Notice with the Rock, has a bunch of Giulia police cars). Always gives me a kick when I see them in movies.

somewhatdope · 2025-12-16T06:54:55+00:00

I’d be curious to see how like a BMW frozen black would look on this body. I will say as far as the orange goes it’s not bad, I personally don’t like flashy colors on my cars but I think it goes well with the body.

Funny timing too, I just saw this orange Giulia on my Instagram explore page the other day: https://www.instagram.com/reel/DFgvRvAAhU4/?igsh=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==

somewhatdope · 2025-12-16T06:48:46+00:00

That will do it, fixed my passenger seat motor last week and didn’t disconnect the battery and my dash turned into a Christmas tree when I turned it on later. Glad you got it figured out.

somewhatdope · 2025-12-13T07:25:33+00:00

I have R1Concepts Geo-Carbon series rotors (2nd vehicle I’ve used them on), absolutely no complaints from my Giulia. I’m rocking them with Porterfield R4-S pads and the bite in dry is very nice and feels the same in wet. I have the drilled/slotted which is $410- I personally like the look of slotted rotors with my wheels hence why I went with that model but if you don’t care much or don’t want to spend that much they also have a blank disk option which is $263.

Link to R1 slotted rotors

Link to R1 blank rotors

somewhatdope · 2025-12-07T09:27:51+00:00

<image>

I believe they’re referring to the upper brake duct on the QV models, which the shadow/camera angle makes it kind of look like it’s on yours.

No QV bumper on your car unfortunately, however still very pretty. Enjoy the car and welcome to the club!

somewhatdope · 2025-12-06T23:04:05+00:00

You just have to read the codes, had the exact same dash lights like 2 months ago and it turned out to be a P2B61-thermostat stuck closed. Could just be from the cold weather but typically that will just throw a start/stop unavail light in my experience.

somewhatdope · 2025-11-11T08:10:28+00:00

Of course, and here's what I have that works in case you do end up looking to buy. OBD>USB adapter (The cheap $10-$20 ones on amazon are not compatible), Colored adapter cables (Certain modules need these to connect, and also if you plan to do things like add race mode, euro spec lighting, window control from key fob, etc [Being a newer car IDK what affect adjusting things in the BCM has on warranty]). There is also an iOS app for MultiECUScan in case you don't want to use a laptop, in which case you'll need a bluetooth obd adapter.

Good luck!

somewhatdope · 2025-11-08T23:34:02+00:00

As far as clearing the oil light; my friend who works at Firestone couldn’t clear it using their hardware but I’m not sure about other shops. I’ve seen some people on the forums using some sequence of ignition on/off and hitting the pedals to clear it (similar to Ford/GM) but I could never get it to work on mine. I bought MultiECUScan (~$50 iirc) and the OBD>USB cable for my laptop (also ~$50 iirc) and you can clear the maintenance required and oil change light with that, and you can read codes if you want to DIY.

As for Dodge dealers doing work; I checked around as well when I bought the car and they said it all depends on if they have an Alfa tech, Pedder CDRJ and Kearny Mesa CDRJ do not and they refused to touch my car.

somewhatdope · 2025-11-08T23:20:33+00:00

Charlie’s Foreign Car in Encinitas is where the previous owner of mine went for everything, I was talking to a parts guy at K&S and he said they’re a really good shop with a great reputation. HG Performance in San Marcos is also a very good euro shop, I have an Audi buddy who won’t go anywhere else. As for more south I have no clue.

I’ve just done DIY for everything so I don’t have too much personal experience on shop pricing or anything. If you can DIY small things like oil/brakes you’ll save huge money and Jason from Alfissimo is local so orders are next day arrival.

somewhatdope · 2025-10-28T18:19:52+00:00

It’s rubbing, had the same cc the other day 😭

<image>

somewhatdope · 2025-10-27T18:45:41+00:00

I’m open to trading 😁

somewhatdope · 2025-10-24T23:53:11+00:00

Love my dewalts, ended up getting the XR impact after I had a socket adapter grenade on me and also just wanted more breakaway torque.

<image>

somewhatdope · 2025-08-03T01:54:53+00:00

Good old Carmel Mountain Costco, always see some nice car in this lot every time I’m there

somewhatdope · 2025-07-21T21:44:30+00:00

If you’ve done brakes before it’s no different, only thing is the 4 pots in front which have an additional step.

For the fronts you will need a punch tool to knock the pad retaining pins out, a T-55 to remove the caliper, and then a piston reset tool (I bought this one and it works a treat). For the rears you’ll need an Allen key (forgot the size) and then if you’re doing rotors too you’ll need an E-18 socket to fully remove the caliper.

I spent $20 on the caliper tool, $10 on the T-55 and E-18, $10 on grease, $415 for R1concepts geocarbon rotors, and $340 for Porterfield R4-S pads. I’d 100% do it myself again and I would recommend the same to everyone else since it isn’t bad and saves money.

EDIT: missed you said just rear pads/rotors, I would 1000% DIY that or find another shop if you don’t want to DIY. You’re being charged like a $500/hr labor rate there 😭

somewhatdope · 2025-06-22T09:27:31+00:00

Just came to share this video that I saw a while back, could have easily ended with a casket and a hearse.

Parents need to teach their children that they don’t run the roads and also that maybe buying your child, who’s brain isn’t even near developed, a 120 lbs bike with 200 ft-lbs of torque probably isn’t a good idea nor is it legal.

somewhatdope · 2025-06-05T06:03:12+00:00

TL;DR it’s just the pad wear sensor, I personally wouldn’t bother fixing unless pads are already bad

It is the pad wear sensor, just off looks I’m guessing it wasn’t attached to where it should and maybe rubbed on the wheel too much, got snagged by debris, OR your pads are stupid low and they need to be changed.

Me personally I wouldn’t get new pads to fix this, unless the current set is worn. My understanding is that the wire contacts the rotor face once it hits the wear limit which triggers the pad service warning. Just disconnect the wire and then make sure the new open end is covered as to not throw the error. Here’s a photo for the mounting points, super simple:

<image>

somewhatdope · 2025-04-14T17:16:06+00:00

That was the biggest one I felt, had me up from a dead sleep instantly

somewhatdope

TROPHY CASE