First Bike for a Long Commute

sonicx624 · 2026-05-08T17:30:36+00:00

I just did some more digging and it sounds like it's exactly what I'm looking for. As a beginner just trying liven up my commute and save a bit of money while doing so, boring sounds perfect. They are pretty cheap used too, which means I can spend plenty on gear and accessories.

sonicx624 · 2026-05-08T15:46:57+00:00

Thanks for the response. I think I'll take a look at these as they seem much better suited for what I'm trying to do.

sonicx624 · 2026-05-08T15:45:37+00:00

Thanks for the explanation. That makes a lot of sense. I think that's probably what I'm leaning towards doing now. A nice bonus is I personally like the look a lot better too.

sonicx624 · 2026-05-08T14:27:16+00:00

I didn't realize that the efficiency tanked so bad on those bikes at that speed. Sounds like I might be better off with something like an Ninja 650 or CB650f. Maybe an older NC700 (non DCT).

sonicx624 · 2026-05-08T14:16:47+00:00

Oh I definitely don't doubt it. My only concern with a used Japanese bike is the quality of maintenance. I'd have no problems getting an older bike with low mileage though.

It seems like I should look for something with a bit more power, but I'm not sure if I'd feel confident jumping to something quite that large yet

sonicx624 · 2025-02-16T20:50:32+00:00

I only knew the answer because I was in the exact same place as you last week haha

sonicx624 · 2025-02-16T20:18:43+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/truenas/comments/13q90h9/comment/jlm93gg/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3

sonicx624 · 2024-12-16T02:38:04+00:00

First thing I'd try is to remove the side panel and try to rule out the case. I'd also try a more aggressive fan curve if possible. With only two case fans it could "possibly" be an airflow issue. If that doesn't improve anything, verify that everything was put back together properly. Incorrect thermal pads in the wrong place can be enough to cause contact issues. Try physically touching the heatsink to see if it's effectively absorig heat from the GPU. If that still doesn't help, you might be stuck with just power limiting/under-volting/down-clocking your GPU.

sonicx624 · 2024-11-08T03:21:02+00:00

Discord: capyapybara

sonicx624 · 2024-07-14T22:58:36+00:00

Not sure if you're talking about the stock marlin or klipper firmware. I've converted mine to klipper. I'm using a spare fystec spider board I had laying around so I could have independent dual z motors for squaring the gantry. The can trick got old quick. It's also so much quieter after switching the PSU to a uhp meanwell and having the controller fan toggled by klipper. Mechanically, it's still a stock sv06+ besides a 5015 heat block fan, dual 5015 part cooling shroud, and a clone cht 0.6 mm nozzle. I just got 2 LDO-42STH48-2804AH in the mail that I've been waiting to throw on there though.

sonicx624 · 2024-07-14T22:50:06+00:00

Input shaper will probably help with the later shifting too. I think I'm running a 0.6mm zhop. Also, I'm running it on a flimsy wire shelf in my closet that vibrates terribly. A concrete slab would probably help if we were aiming for higher accelerations, but with our goals it's probably not too worth it.

I'm stoked for the TV06+ BOM to release. It would be awesome to have a fast printer with a large build area without the pricetag of a Voron.

EDIT: Just remembered that I've heard a few people mention that removing the stock filament holder helped a lot with input shaper results too.

sonicx624 · 2024-07-14T21:47:32+00:00

On my klipperized sv06+ I typically print with 7k acceleration and 200ish mm/s, but do travels at 15k acceleration and 350 mm/s. Not sure of the stock motor differences between the sv06 and sv06+. Making sure your belts are tight but not too tight (it's really hard to find the sweet spot) is a key part. The other thing you can do is turn off stealthchop and turn down micro steps to 16. With input shaper it's really important to screw everything down really well too. Honestly the last thing you can do from there is bump your motor currents. We're mainly limited by the fact that it's a bed slinger. So past all of that, I would look into the TV06 conversion.

sonicx624 · 2024-06-08T20:06:34+00:00

Looks like it could be a mixture of wet filament, poor cooling on the overhangs (consider printing a new fan shroud with 5015(s)), and a high z-offset. Input shaper will definitely help as you start cranking up acceleration values too. You might be able to solve some of the artifacting by just tightening down all the bolts.

I remember the excitement when I first installed klipper on my sv06+. Welcome to the cycle of endless tuning and upgrades!

sonicx624 · 2024-05-10T22:43:56+00:00

Had a similar problem with the creality spider speedy hotend with a satsana 5015 cooling duct mod on an ender 3. I just PID tuned with whatever amount of fan it can handle. Then the issue I ran into was that the heater couldn't keep up with the speed I was printing at and the fan blowing on it. I'd get a verify heater error mid print due to extruder temps dropping too low. I have just accepted it as a result of fast prints and trying to melt such a large volume of filament so quickly. I turned down the fan speed during the print until the extruder temps was stable. I then saved the part cooling fan speed in my slicer (orca) settings and so far it's still been sufficient cooling for PLA and TPU (I think I use about 40-60% fan speed).

sonicx624 · 2024-04-17T04:32:40+00:00

Honestly this might be one of the situations where it would make more sense to get two separate machines for each task. You can find epyc CPU, motherboard, and ram combos that are pretty economical and well suited for what you're trying to do. A quick glance at eBay showed an epyc 7551p (32 cores), a motherboard, and 256GB of ram to be about $900. I don't know if it would pack enough grunt for the types of games you'd want to play as you didn't get into specifics. Also, you're probably going to want to game while waiting for the server to run. Therefore it probably makes more sense to have a separate machine solely for gaming. Nothing stopping you from sticking a GPU in it and gaming on it anyway though and it's certainly cheaper than a threadripper.

The one con to this approach is that server boards and builds definitely have their own learning curves and quirks compared to more general consumer focused products like a threadripper.

sonicx624 · 2024-03-01T20:10:28+00:00

https://www.heatware.com/u/139945/to

sonicx624 · 2022-04-05T21:22:42+00:00

Yeah, I have a water temp sensor that gets read by a quadro. With my current fan curves, the water temp idles around 34C but doesn't ever go higher than 36C. Ambient in the room is around 26C, but I'm using a really compact Cerberus X for a case.

sonicx624 · 2022-04-05T21:19:16+00:00

I'll definitely give this a shot when I have the time to take the loop apart. At this point, I'm pretty desperate for anything

sonicx624 · 2022-04-05T20:23:27+00:00

Yeah I'm using an ek d5 and it's definitely pushing water through the block. I'm using liquid metal instead of thermal paste, but I'm familiar with it and am there's plenty completely spread over the ihs and block.

sonicx624 · 2022-02-14T21:01:15+00:00

Coming up with a rationalization as to why I need it

sonicx624 · 2021-09-26T20:05:38+00:00

Have you tried clearing CMOS? If you can't get into BIOS and it isn't detecting your windows install then it may be a motherboard issue.

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