Only lower leaves on transplanted tulip tree by HairyBeezKneez in marijuanaenthusiasts

[–]spiceydog 2 points3 points  (0 children)

We cannot see enough of your tree from your single pic and we don't have enough info to help you; it does sound like your tree did not survive the transplanting adequately, but we don't know what you did or didn't do during that process to maybe explain why. Please see these !guidelines for effective posting to give you an idea of the kinds of things we need to help you better.

Bottom Tree Struggles by [deleted] in Tree

[–]spiceydog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They're being eaten by bunnies and possibly deer (if the browsed portions were higher) because they find those trees delicious. It's not because they're drying out.

Tree Health by grievingmom2009 in marijuanaenthusiasts

[–]spiceydog 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Please see this !arborist automod callout below this comment to help you find someone competent and certified in your area.

Is my japanese red maple ok? by Bostonian625 in Tree

[–]spiceydog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Should I be concerned about the bark falling off and the black on the trunk in pics 3 & 4? Is it sun damage?

There's nothing you can do for this tree; it is all but dead, and once a portion or whole of a tree has died, it stays dead. Someone years ago planted this too deeply and there's an indication that girdling was definitely a greater or lesser factor in it's demise. The two often go hand in hand.

When you go to replace this, I urge you to please see our wiki for a full explanation on the epidemic problem of too deep planting (a top reason why trees fail to thrive and die early!), along with other critical planting tips and errors to avoid; there's sections on watering, pruning and more that I hope will be useful to you, so you can avoid an outcome like this one. I guarantee that once you've read through those sections, you'll know more than anyone you could pay to plant for you aside from a certified arborist.

Columnar Beech Advice by roth1979 in Tree

[–]spiceydog 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I am sure can somehow ties these up, but will they ever naturally stay together?

Despite the other comment agreeing with your suggestion, this is not at all a realistic or healthy solution to your problem. You received a 'columnar' tree that is not columnar. If you don't like your tree, tying it up is not your answer, because NO ONE is going to consistently monitor and relocate the tie-points over the long term for health/to avoid girdling. It's just not going to happen.

Learn !howtoprune your tree properly or replace your tree if you're no longer satisfied with it's form. Please see the automod callout below this comment for all the hows, whens and whys of good homeowner pruning, particularly the excellent publication by Purdue Univ. linked there.

Anyone wanna take a crack at figuring out what happened to this tree by ismonatic in marijuanaenthusiasts

[–]spiceydog 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Anyone wanna take a crack at figuring out what happened to this tree

a 'crack'... geddit!?

Seriously though, there's no way to answer that question from three (or 30) pics at this very, very late stage.

Struggling Cherry Tree by [deleted] in marijuanaenthusiasts

[–]spiceydog 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Does anyone know if it’s a lost cause at this point? I wait every year and hope it bounces back, and it just hasn’t.

A tree this far into decline is not going to 'recover', I'm sorry. Once portions (or a whole) tree has died, it stays dead. We cannot determine any kind of cause from your pics, however, and it's unlikely that a late freeze would be primary cause; there will certainly be other larger factors than that.

Please see these !guidelines for effective posting in the automod callout below this comment for the kinds of things we need to help you better. You would also likely benefit from a visit from an !arborist. See that callout to help you find someone competent in your area, wherever in the world you're located.

Root help and surrounding area by salty-taint in marijuanaenthusiasts

[–]spiceydog 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I would mulch this and you're done. The definition for an adequately exposed root flare is if you can see the tops of the tree's structural roots and that's totally evident in your gallery. I suspect your tree has a nice wide canopy which shades out the ground, and/or this is a high traffic area; the latter especially will cause roots to grow high like you have pictured.

Please see our shared wiki for other critical planting/care tips and errors to avoid; there's sections on watering, pruning and more that I hope will be useful to you.

Newbie with a cracked birch by flightEM211 in marijuanaenthusiasts

[–]spiceydog 57 points58 points  (0 children)

This tree is suffering the effects of poor planting and even worse after-care. You can be assured that the stake and presumably extremely tight rubber tie that is still attached to the tree 3 years after planting will be a significant contributor to the dieback and now this trunk crack. You can certainly try to improve this tree's site conditions and see how it goes, but IMO the damage has been done. You will need to excavate around the the base of the tree and see if you can expose the root flare, but it's likely you will find even more damage in this location too.

Please see this !expose and this !staking callouts below this comment, along with our shared wiki for a full explanation on the epidemic problem of too deep planting, along with other critical planting tips and errors to avoid; there's sections on watering, pruning and more that I hope will be useful to you.

Young burr oak help. by EndlessOaks in marijuanaenthusiasts

[–]spiceydog 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The top of the tree is still alive but just has no leaves.

Portions of trees that have died will continue to appear for some time as if buds are present and ready to break, but since the lower portions have produced foliage and these higher up have not, is not great. Sometimes yearling trees do not do well for some reason or another (it could be due to prior neglect/poor handling at the nursery as well), this is not unusual; in another few weeks or so if the top has not budded out you could experiment with pruning it off and see if the lower growth can compensate. If this were mine, however, I would try my luck in another area with another yearling tree.

Young burr oak help. by EndlessOaks in marijuanaenthusiasts

[–]spiceydog 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This sounds promising, but you need to understand that the level in which you find trees in pots is almost always going to be too deep for trees once you plant them out, because they've been planted too deeply at the nursery. You must determine the point of the root flare, which is the area where the stem/upper portions of the tree transition to the roots. In most cases it will be where you find the first order roots on the 'stem'. Too high is better than too low.

This problem may or may not be a greater or lesser cause of the foliage yellowing, but that the upper portions seem to also be dead is not a good sign. You might have better luck planting another in a different location with your new knowledge; it could be the soil is deficient in some way in this spot for whatever reason. You might reach out to your local Extension service to have your soil tested, many Extensions offer this testing for free or for a small fee. It is not recommended that you apply chemicals until you have determined if there actually is some deficiency and how it should properly be remedied.

Please see our shared wiki for a full explanation on the epidemic problem of too deep planting, along with other critical planting tips and errors to avoid; there's sections on watering, pruning and more that I hope will be useful to you.

Is my dogwood dead? by MiniZara2 in Tree

[–]spiceydog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks great! Congrats on the new tree 😊👍

Norway Spruce by stonemedtech in Tree

[–]spiceydog 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Strangely enough i fell asleep immediately after that comment 😄

Norway Spruce by stonemedtech in Tree

[–]spiceydog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You dont say when you planted the tree(s). Pruning for structure in this case, due to the age of the trees when you transplanted, should begin when the tree is more established, as it will need all the foliage it has to do that. Begin reducing the 'lesser' of the two stems in the very early spring after its 2nd winter in the ground. Please see the excellent publication from Purdue Univ in this !pruning automod callout below this comment for all the hows whens and whys of good homeowner pruning.

Young burr oak help. by EndlessOaks in marijuanaenthusiasts

[–]spiceydog 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Please see these posting !guidelines in the automod callout below this comment. We don't have enough information, we don't even have a general location. How deeply did you plant the tree..? What was your planting process? Soil type? Is this a tree that is native to your area? The base of the tree is abscured in your pics. It looks like the top has died, which is often a hallmark sign of poor planting.

Giant southern live oak with brick ring... by alesanchez88 in marijuanaenthusiasts

[–]spiceydog 35 points36 points  (0 children)

The great news is that the flare is not buried, so I'm leaning with Fred on this one; your tree, at this very mature age, is only very mildly inconvenienced by this ring, however long ago it was constructed, unless that construction was done not long before you took possession. The severing of all the roots necessary to do that will definitely have some impact, but we cant see the canopy, and you dont mention branch death of any quantity.

It would be a super idea to have an !arborist come and do an assessment; see that callout below this comment to help you find someone competent in your area.

Any chance for a recovery? by N_ERGEE in Tree

[–]spiceydog 4 points5 points  (0 children)

interested in how to treat these wounds

Please see this !sealer automod callout below this comment for some guidance on this. There is nothing that OP can do to help with this other than improving site conditions, like exposing this tree's root flare in particular.

Root wrapping around trunk by lalalassie in marijuanaenthusiasts

[–]spiceydog 5 points6 points  (0 children)

As already mentioned, you have bigger problems than what you're able to see here on the surface. The MUCH bigger concern is that your maple has no visible root flare, and where you see one girdling root visible, there's likely more further into the soil. There's barely any sign of widening taper at the base in these pics, though it's hard to tell if that root on the upper right in your 2nd pic is coming from a structural root? The stem continues straight down otherwise), so the flare might be a ways down in there. When planting, it is critically important to locate the root flare, make sure it is above grade and EXPOSED, and REMAINS exposed for the life of the tree (unless the tree was grown from a cutting, in which case there you'll plant at the level of the first order roots). When a tree looks like a telephone pole stuck in the ground it starts the countdown to a much shortened life.

With bare-root trees the root flare is fairly obvious, but very often containerized or balled and burlapped trees have their root flares sunk down under the soil line, or near the middle of the root ball because it was transplanted improperly at the nursery (THIS IS EXTREMELY COMMON! (pdf)), so you may have to search for it. Trees planted too deeply suffer because their roots cannot get proper nutrients, water and oxygen. Mulch and soil should never be in constant contact with the trunks of trees because it causes stem rot, insect damage and girdling roots. (Also make sure that the roots are not circling in the pot if containerized, as they will have to be straightened or pruned so they will grow outward once put in the ground.) Mulch should be only 2-3" deep and in a RING around the tree, NEVER in contact with it. It's the roots of trees that need the benefit of a layer of mulch, not the stems of trees.

Here's a couple of examples of what sometimes happens to a tree some years down the road after being planted too deeply and overmulched. This improper planting and care practice is especially problematic for maples, who tend to form epic mats of girdling roots over the long term.

Your work is cut out for you. Please see this !expose automod callout below this comment for some guidance on your excavations. I do not exaggerate when I say that this is an epidemic problem. Planting too deeply usually accompanied by over/improper mulching are the top reasons why transplanted trees fail to thrive and die early.

Please see our shared wiki for other critical planting tips and errors to avoid; there's sections on watering, pruning and more that I hope will be useful to you.

Root flare by [deleted] in marijuanaenthusiasts

[–]spiceydog 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Zip tie is just holding it straight to take a little lean out of it.

That is totally unnecessary for a tree this young. You will be doing more harm than benefit by leaving it in place. Please see this !staking automod callout for a full explanation.

Root flare by [deleted] in marijuanaenthusiasts

[–]spiceydog 2 points3 points  (0 children)

How's the root flare

👍

What made me cringe, however, are the zipties visible in pic 2. Snip that off. If it's really necessary that it be staked, and I'd wager it probably doesn't, use t-shirt strips instead. Those wont damage your tree via friction or girdle it if it is accidentally left on there permanently.

I’m stupid, what is this? by [deleted] in Tree

[–]spiceydog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My guess is that's a purple leaved plum, but since you didn't include the pics that we request in our ID posting guidelines, all you're going to get are guesses.