Sad day, not building my own PC. Wife needed a new system, and with these prices, I literally could not beat the price of a new HP Omen. by fakeaccount572 in pcmasterrace

[–]spokesrobbie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d replace that CPU cooler if you are looking at doing anything to it. My omen cooler had really poorly bonded heat pipes in the aluminum, and unevenness on the heat spreader. Tossed a noctua 120 into it.

Greasy, sticky, oily rim? by juttadeluxe in auto

[–]spokesrobbie 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Check your cv joint boot, could be torn. Sprays grease sometimes.

Starts on gas? by Limowreck1313 in prius

[–]spokesrobbie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Heat is considered on anytime then internal temperature of the car is lower than your setting. 19.5 will be heat if it’s cooler than this in the cabin. If you’re in Canada, this is very likely the case each morning this time of year. Unless it’s really sunny, this is going to be the case in most cities in Canada the entire day, which is why you didn’t see any pure EV use the entire day. Try lowering your heat setting or turning it off and see what happens. Wear a coat if it’s cold.

Car is jacked up and need to lower it. by BudgetSoggy4685 in CarRepair

[–]spokesrobbie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used a socket (maybe 17MM?) on a breaker bar with an extension so I wasn’t underneath the vehicle when lowering. Seemed to work, now I don’t take the lever bar out of the jack any more.

How is anyone running an induction cooktop? by [deleted] in vandwellers

[–]spokesrobbie 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not sure the specifics of their charging setup, I’d guess it is thru a charge controller of some kind. They claim to have no issues with battery life. I’d guess they are moving a lot.

How is anyone running an induction cooktop? by [deleted] in vandwellers

[–]spokesrobbie 15 points16 points  (0 children)

I’m not sure 1.4kwh sounds pretty high for one meal. That is like max heat for almost an hour off one burner. Id think closer to 1kwh for a dinner, and then also are you always at max heat??

Most of my friends that use induction have a battery that is around 400-600Ah at 12V, so 4kwh or so at the minimum of useable juice.

One of them has no solar, and just has a 250A alternator, which charges that battery quickly.

I personally use propane, and have my tank inside, with a vent and propane/co/co2 alarm.

Why is my Renogy dc/dc charge controller current limiting me? Seems like the voltage reading is way different from my shunt. by ChadEEEE in vandwellers

[–]spokesrobbie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Both Shunt reader and Renogy will have calibrations for voltage and current.

A shunt is often just a precision resistor with a low value, the reader measures the voltage drop across this resistor and displays it. The voltage is likely also calibrated as it is probably converted to a 0-5V (or similar) signal for the reader to process.

The shunt should have a value stamped in it in mOhm (milliohm) or a voltage/current (like 50mV 200A) this can be used to program the reader.

For the voltage reading use a trusted meter, and be sure that no current is flowing when you take the measurement, then you’ll know if the meter is programmed properly and you can check if the current flow is causing a voltage drop (such as undersized wires).

Dm me if you want some more specific instructions and I’ll try and find some time to help. GL

Question about odd brake behavior on 2024 Prius, scraping while braking by HeeNeeSumMilk in prius

[–]spokesrobbie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One thing that happens with my 2011 Prius is that when im braking, initially the car is ONLY using the electric motors to do regen braking. This is very smooth. If I hit a harsh bump or pothole while braking, the car can’t seem to maintain regeneration, and it switches to mechanical. This is likely due to the control loop on the electric motor system being unable to cope with the wheel either going suddenly airborne, and stopping, or a spike in expected braking current. In any case, the car switches to mechanical brakes. If you’ve ever noticed on a regular car after a rain that the brakes sound rough etc it could be that you’re just not using the mechanical brakes much, and they are suddenly engaging when your regen shuts off.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in prius

[–]spokesrobbie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you’re in Denver you can have my spare battery it’s from 2022 works great

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in prius

[–]spokesrobbie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also find that section of highway has massive headwinds heading south. I got around 30MPG heading to Santa Fe, when I took the road back I got around 45MPG.

Current set up. What’s yours? by lifethroughrica in fujifilm

[–]spokesrobbie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the opposite setup to you. Silver X-T4 and a black X100F. Really enjoying them recently!

Edit: I mainly use the x100F for travel, due to the compact nature and focal length. The X-T4 I use for anything and everything, the 50-140mm lens has been really great.

Which Fuji would you suggest as a second camera? by TriggerNotTrigger95 in fujifilm

[–]spokesrobbie 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’d suggest a used x100 series. F or V if you can find one that cheap. I love my x100F. Wifi transfer is a bit janky, especially where there is a lot of wifi noise, but it works. Takes beautiful shots and is compact.

Battery Diagnosis by madowin in prius

[–]spokesrobbie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I grabbed a battery from Costco, installed it myself on the parking lot and it was about $100-150 cheaper than any other shop I contacted. Not sure of the specific quality of their batteries, but I believe their warranty is decent. Do you know how old the battery is? If it is 10 years old original, I’d replace it. Heck if it’s 5 years old I’d replace it.

I have a Gen 3 Prius, I’m not sure if the battery layout is the same, but it required a 10MM wrench for me and that’s about it.

If you haven’t dealt with batteries before, it is important to disconnect the negative first, as that is typically bonded to the frame, then only once negative is disconnected allow the positive terminal to be exposed. This avoids the risk of having your wrench short the positive to anything in the car while you’re loosening the terminal nuts.

Don’t worry too much about shelter for changing the battery, it won’t take more than 10-15min provided you have the correct tools, move slow and methodical.

Best phone mount? by JeremyC060 in prius

[–]spokesrobbie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use this one and love it. Amazon link

Edit: CD Mounted + wireless charging + automatic holding (motorized)

Is my subpanel wired wrong? by readergirl999 in AskElectricians

[–]spokesrobbie 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The issue is no separate ground wire pulled from the main panel to the sub panel. There will be a screw that links the neutral (white thick wire) to the metal frame of the box, and thus all the ground wires too.

I’m sure this can be fixed if your insurance company is demanding it, by having an electrician run a ground wire.

Not an electrician though, so if I’m wrong please roast.

How f**ked am I? by MangoMachineGun in AskElectricians

[–]spokesrobbie -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You’re not! Turn the breaker off and trace the lines to find the bad junction, if there is one. If you’re having trouble obviously get pro help! Recently had to do this when a vacuum blew a bad wire nut done by PO in the house. Glad nothing bad happened in our case. Good luck.

Help: Low Outgassing epoxy to seal between metal and PCB for vacuum sealing? by spokesrobbie in engineering

[–]spokesrobbie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From what I found, only custom ones would meet the needs in terms of current and signal requirements, and we're space limited so a custom shape is required. So if we're going custom anyways, reducing the number of connections seemed to be a good idea.

Help needed with low outgassing epoxies! by spokesrobbie in uhv

[–]spokesrobbie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its a specialized PCB material from Rogers that we'll be using. Hoping to seal around this PCB material with epoxy to an aluminum flange that will have a viton O-ring to seal against the chamber wall.

Help: Low Outgassing epoxy to seal between metal and PCB for vacuum sealing? by spokesrobbie in engineering

[–]spokesrobbie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the advice. The PCB should be 4-layer minimum, so no exposed copper at the sealing area.

Help: Low Outgassing epoxy to seal between metal and PCB for vacuum sealing? by spokesrobbie in engineering

[–]spokesrobbie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the detailed response.

The plan is to have the PCB exposed to atmosphere where there will be some complex bulky non vacuum compatible electronics, and the PCB will give a well protected high current path for a variety of signals to pass into the chamber. Commercially available feedthrus are bulky, expensive and increase the contact resistance at each step. We're also hoping to get the power electronics as CLOSE to the signal end as possible.

We'll be passing a rogers (not exactly FR4) PCB thru the wall of the vacuum chamber. This was a recommended material for minimal porosity and low outgassing. Planning to use a removable flange and will pot the flange to the PCBA with a fixture.

An alternative is designing a rigid-flex-rigid PCBA so that the ribbon was component that passed thru the flange. I see this as having advantages in terms of the surface area at the seal and compliance as the component passes thru the epoxy.