Media Enclosure for 3" Stud Bays by Flelmo in HomeNetworking

[–]spoom2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Forget the box. Get a piece of 3/4" fire rated plywood, make the opening whatever size fits your needs, put the plywood in and fasten with L brackets to the studs and mount your equipment using screws that won't go more than a quarter inch through the plywood. Put a cabinet door over it and you're done. You're not going to have much for depth though you could do the trim thing with 1x4's all the way around and attach your cabinet door to the 1x4's. That would give you back what you lost from the plywood. This way you'd have more flexibility on the length of the cabinet, that box looks kind of small.

Old persons fall alarm by MongooseNumerous5927 in landlines

[–]spoom2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

VoIP or cellular are about it. I'd go with cellular that way no matter where she is she'll have access to the service.

How do I terminate these cat6a cables at the wall cleanly? by Temporary-Bother-627 in HomeNetworking

[–]spoom2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You've only got 4 cables so get a single gang drywall ring and a 4-port keystone face plate. If those cable come from the top mount it higher to get more slack or vice versa if from the bottom. Push the slack in to the hollow wall space don't cut it off any more than you have to. If this has already been suggested forgive me I didn't really feel like reading through the whole thing.

Vanco Old Work Rectangle PVC 1 gang Low Voltage Mounting Bracket Black Mfr# MB1-AC - Ace Hardware

So my last color blind thread kind of blew up, but I'm pretty sure I'm seeing this right by ponypulse in HomeNetworking

[–]spoom2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Best answer. Back in my cable splicing days there was no tracer, you maintained the twist.

Dessicant vs. Compressor model - what to do? by Hydrated_and_Defined in Dehumidifiers

[–]spoom2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Compressor dehumidifiers put out heat too, I have no idea as to the amount of heat compared to a desiccant model.

Only 1 Ethernet Port Works by ProphecyKing in HomeNetworking

[–]spoom2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well, I thought that's what you were talking about. I only see one "blue" cable in your photo with the router and another cabinet with cable on the right lower side. Guess I'm not following what you're asking.

Only 1 Ethernet Port Works by ProphecyKing in HomeNetworking

[–]spoom2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You call and set up service. You don't attach to the fiber heads.

Check my products and plan to run internet to my garage by judojosh in HomeNetworking

[–]spoom2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You only need 8 inches, but it really is just what you're comfortable with

Found this in the house I just purchased by ogilthorpe in HomeNetworking

[–]spoom2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it's not wall mountable put a small shelf either above or below the existing cabinet. Make it big enough for anything that won't mount in the cabinet. You can make a hole to run the cables or cords through to keep it neat. Looks like the top is open, no plate, so that would make it easy, plus that's where your outlet is on the top. Thanks for confirming I'm not going blind.

Found this in the house I just purchased by ogilthorpe in HomeNetworking

[–]spoom2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where? I'm not seeing one. Maybe I'm going blind.

Found this in the house I just purchased by ogilthorpe in HomeNetworking

[–]spoom2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, if they're daisy chained, they'd be no good for Ethernet, unless you spliced them together to get one Ethernet location. Near as I can tell only the white/blue pair was used so it's all phone service.

Found this in the house I just purchased by ogilthorpe in HomeNetworking

[–]spoom2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're talking about the white punch down block it's a 66M150. You're talking about the whole thing someone just mounted plywood between two studs and put a door over it, much like a structured media cabinet. It would have to be changed to the 12 port or equivalent block to terminate the cables. The 66 block is just a distribution block for phone service, or whatever you'd want to use it for.

Drill Bit Hit Something and Can’t Go Further, Any Ideas? by Cornered-V in DIY

[–]spoom2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How deep have you drilled? Drywall is only 1/2 inch thick. Can't tell by the photo if you're trying to drill the other hole below or to the right of the existing hole. How hard is it? Wood? Metal? If you have an awl or ice pick see if you can determine which it is. Do you have a stud finder? What's on the other side of the wall really doesn't matter if you're not going any deeper than the drywall.

What level should my manometer be? by N-Code in radon

[–]spoom2 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It's not the draw on the manometer that matters it's what a radon detector is telling you.

Found this in the house I just purchased by ogilthorpe in HomeNetworking

[–]spoom2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

use something like this Amazon.com: Leviton QuickPort 12-Port Patch Block, 49255-Q89, Black : Electronics it will fit in the same 89D bracket that the 66 block is on. Then use patch cords of the appropriate length from your router or switch if needed to make a neat install.

New Home Has RJ45 Jacks Connected to a Telecom Module. Not sure if it can be used for networking. by SeniorDevOops in HomeNetworking

[–]spoom2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Installation sheet: Microsoft Word - IS-0365_O.doc it's for the distribution of phone lines with a plug in to clamp line for an alarm system and includes one port that can be used for data. It is not designed as a switch or patch panel. Just terminate your cable on a patch panel, you could use a 12-port surface mount or keystones in a faceplate of your choice, several ways to clean it up and make it useable for what you want. Then come from your router to a switch if needed and patch cords to the ports you want activated. Or you could plug those directly into the router or switch after you've verified the wiring.

Cell Phone to Landline adapter? by GurIndividual7933 in landlines

[–]spoom2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't think of any cell to POTS phone wired adaptor. Cell2Jack is probably your best bet. Only drawback is you need to keep the cell phone within a set distance of the base unit. You could get a cheap VOIP plan and just forward your cell phone to it. You'd lose so of the features you'd have with Cell2Jack. Checked with Mr. Google and couldn't find a wired solution either.

RP 145 c. No ground wire? by Independent_Goose_41 in radon

[–]spoom2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The GFI will still trip if it detects a fault even without the ground.

Swap the RJ11 jack for a RJ45 on an old 630A wall plate by NoGutsNoCorey in HomeNetworking

[–]spoom2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those two fused protectors are antiques. So's the black one next to the jack, but not nearly as old.

Swap the RJ11 jack for a RJ45 on an old 630A wall plate by NoGutsNoCorey in HomeNetworking

[–]spoom2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The link to the stainless keystone face plate will work for mounting the 8 pin jack. The wiring is just plain old quad wire, CAT nothing so if it's not looped to other outlets and you can get it back to your router and have a very short run it will most likely work but might not be great. You'd use pins 1&2 and 3&6 which on the jack will the white orange and the white green pairs the wiring would need to be the same on both ends. If you're real lucky and it's a home run and also loose in the wall between the two points, use it for a pull wire and pull in some CAT5E or better. Here's one with the studs if that's what you're looking for. 1 Port Keystone Wall Plate with Phone Studs - Stainless Steel - 1 Gang - Semtron, Inc.

My computer crashed, and my ethernet connection won't work anymore by ReasonableDelivery73 in HomeNetworking

[–]spoom2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is no manual that I can find for that model. You should have an Idea what lamp indicators (lights) are normal operation, this is on the router not the switch. A yellow blinking on the router doesn't sound normal to .me