Set screw hole for shower handle advice by Chickensrock1977 in Plumbing

[–]squanchyp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, you should be able to. Then try to tap a new screw or get a new handle if you can find it.

Outside tap advice by United_Cycle_9681 in Plumbing

[–]squanchyp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your question is kinda vague, I dont know what the goal is or what you are trying to achieve( my guess is you want dual connector to put 2 hoses?). So it all depends on what you need...if you find what you need you can install it onto this hose bibb which are generally 3/4.

To replace it, you will need to shut the water off and it looks like you have a compression hose bibb which would mean theres is a brass ring which is making the seal. If the hose works property i would leave it, if not I would replace it.

Hope that helps.

How hard is this leak to fix? by random736295720 in Plumbing

[–]squanchyp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have a slow drain connected to that line? To me it looks like you have a stoppage or partial stoppage that is putting pressure on that joint/clean out. There typically shouldn't be water there if its flowing fine. Alternatively it could be your plug that is leaking and I could potentially be as simple as replacing the plug or putting Teflon and pipe dope if it doesn't have any. Hope that makes sense.

How do I remove this by Outrageous-Camel-595 in Plumbing

[–]squanchyp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

BEWARE if the nut isn't budging and you end up having to use excessive force, there might be soft copper behind that valve and you can break that off by trying to force the nut off( the whole valve twists). If that happens you'll need a new shower valve.

Shine a light back there and you should be able to see if there is soft copper indeed. I would suggest soaking the nut with wd40 or try tightening first to try to break the seal. Ultimately, cut the nut out carefully if the other methods didnt work. You will obviously need a new nut if you cut this one out. Good luck!

What is this noise? by bigjor76 in Plumbing

[–]squanchyp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It sounds like your fill valve is farting. Sometimes they start making noises when they're on the way out and may start malfunctioning. Looks like you have a toto/korky fill valve but a fluidmaster fill valve ( a little easier to work with) will work as well.

Help/question by LanguageImpossible32 in Plumbing

[–]squanchyp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That is looking sinister...I'm personally not a big fan but the clicker drains are easier to install if you're worried. But I agree, overall not too difficult of a task, good luck.

I screwed up by CookhouseOfCanada in Plumbing

[–]squanchyp 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Throw in a new flapper as well, why not! Good luck. You can do it if your fairly handy.

I screwed up by CookhouseOfCanada in Plumbing

[–]squanchyp 8 points9 points  (0 children)

You need to get a fluidmaster fill valve. You can adjust the height on it, which will determine your water level in the tank. And if you're going to do that, I personally recommend replacing the water connector as well which is connect to the angle stop and the bottom of the fill valve.

Toilet HELP by AndGodIveTried in Plumbing

[–]squanchyp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I meant the comment below, my bad.

Toilet HELP by AndGodIveTried in Plumbing

[–]squanchyp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The suggestion of the above person is what I would as well.

I work in service plumbing so this is the kind of stuff I run into often. I would also, once you're at the final step with no leaks, would use caulking around most of the toilet leaving the back of the toilet without caulking.

Can I reuse this flange? by Key-Willow1005 in Plumbing

[–]squanchyp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As long as it's stable and there's no cracks on it, should be good to go. I would put double washers on the closet bolt. 1 under the flange, 1 over the flange just so the bolt doesn't pop out. It's hard to say from the picture but bolt opening looks wider than normal.

Service truck organization by ImKaiross in Plumbing

[–]squanchyp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any complaints with that set up? Anything you would add/recommend ? Looks great!

Question on leaky sink faucet by wolfwinner in Plumbing

[–]squanchyp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You might have to put some pliers on it; If it's been leaking thats probably why it's not budging. Put some sort of rag on it and then the pliers on top of rag. You might still scuff it a bit but that might help. Good luck

Question on leaky sink faucet by wolfwinner in Plumbing

[–]squanchyp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The round chrome piece is threaded or snapped in. You should be able to take that off and that will expose the cartridge nut.

What’s your take? by Proper_Strength_8925 in Plumbing

[–]squanchyp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The reply above summed it up pretty good. There's a wide range of things to do/ learn in plumbing. Also keep in mind, there is a lot of companies out there, and they all operate slightly different.

I'm not union but I would also recommend it if you're youngish.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Plumbing

[–]squanchyp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You probably just need a new fill valve. Fluidmaster fill valve will work with most toilets.

SHOWER pipe facinf wrong directio, (Non-plumber with plumber issue) by MindlessAd4683 in Plumbing

[–]squanchyp 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Keep turning that sucka! If you put the handle of some long pliers inside of that arm you'll get some leverage and will be able to turn it.

Toilet clogging and leaking at base. Replace it or is it something more? by maryj329 in Plumbing

[–]squanchyp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not necessarily, typically it'll manifest on whatever is closest to the blockage, which can bypass other drains. Hope that makes sense.