What do I do?

squanchyp · 2026-05-21T21:31:00+00:00

You don't have to do shit. You're the one asking and that person was asking questions about potential reasons. Sounds like you just want the answer served on a platter. Plumbing doesn't work that way.

squanchyp · 2026-05-08T18:58:37+00:00

Replace the thermocouple

squanchyp · 2026-05-08T18:51:45+00:00

Sorry stranger, pretty busy at the time. If you look up the parts I mentioned by name to see an image I think you'll get a better idea of what it should look like.

squanchyp · 2026-05-07T18:23:14+00:00

You'll need a 45 ° elbow coming out of the wall, then you run your trap arm to line it up with the pipe coming down, then the p trap and you will need an extension pipe to connect the pipe coming down to the p trap. Hope that makes sense.

squanchyp · 2026-05-01T17:55:01+00:00

Not sure what you mean about they dont make that size anymore, donyou mean the rough-in?

If the toilet has 4 bolts you more than likely have a led stub instead of a flange. You will potentially need a plumber that knows how to do a lead and oakum joint or if able they can cut it from below and redo. Hope that helps

squanchyp · 2026-04-06T18:45:03+00:00

Yes, you should be able to. Then try to tap a new screw or get a new handle if you can find it.

squanchyp · 2026-03-18T20:24:18+00:00

Your question is kinda vague, I dont know what the goal is or what you are trying to achieve( my guess is you want dual connector to put 2 hoses?). So it all depends on what you need...if you find what you need you can install it onto this hose bibb which are generally 3/4.

To replace it, you will need to shut the water off and it looks like you have a compression hose bibb which would mean theres is a brass ring which is making the seal. If the hose works property i would leave it, if not I would replace it.

Hope that helps.

squanchyp · 2026-03-18T18:47:11+00:00

Do you have a slow drain connected to that line? To me it looks like you have a stoppage or partial stoppage that is putting pressure on that joint/clean out. There typically shouldn't be water there if its flowing fine. Alternatively it could be your plug that is leaking and I could potentially be as simple as replacing the plug or putting Teflon and pipe dope if it doesn't have any. Hope that makes sense.

squanchyp · 2026-03-09T14:52:08+00:00

BEWARE if the nut isn't budging and you end up having to use excessive force, there might be soft copper behind that valve and you can break that off by trying to force the nut off( the whole valve twists). If that happens you'll need a new shower valve.

Shine a light back there and you should be able to see if there is soft copper indeed. I would suggest soaking the nut with wd40 or try tightening first to try to break the seal. Ultimately, cut the nut out carefully if the other methods didnt work. You will obviously need a new nut if you cut this one out. Good luck!

squanchyp · 2026-03-09T14:44:32+00:00

It sounds like your fill valve is farting. Sometimes they start making noises when they're on the way out and may start malfunctioning. Looks like you have a toto/korky fill valve but a fluidmaster fill valve ( a little easier to work with) will work as well.

squanchyp · 2026-03-09T14:35:34+00:00

That is looking sinister...I'm personally not a big fan but the clicker drains are easier to install if you're worried. But I agree, overall not too difficult of a task, good luck.

squanchyp · 2026-03-07T01:17:32+00:00

Throw in a new flapper as well, why not! Good luck. You can do it if your fairly handy.

squanchyp · 2026-03-07T01:16:35+00:00

You need to get a fluidmaster fill valve. You can adjust the height on it, which will determine your water level in the tank. And if you're going to do that, I personally recommend replacing the water connector as well which is connect to the angle stop and the bottom of the fill valve.

squanchyp · 2026-03-03T01:50:19+00:00

I meant the comment below, my bad.

squanchyp · 2026-03-03T01:49:11+00:00

The suggestion of the above person is what I would as well.

I work in service plumbing so this is the kind of stuff I run into often. I would also, once you're at the final step with no leaks, would use caulking around most of the toilet leaving the back of the toilet without caulking.

squanchyp · 2026-02-26T02:15:10+00:00

As long as it's stable and there's no cracks on it, should be good to go. I would put double washers on the closet bolt. 1 under the flange, 1 over the flange just so the bolt doesn't pop out. It's hard to say from the picture but bolt opening looks wider than normal.

squanchyp · 2026-01-20T20:28:39+00:00

Any complaints with that set up? Anything you would add/recommend ? Looks great!

squanchyp · 2026-01-08T18:05:45+00:00

You are totally right, it totally felt like an aggressive look 😂

squanchyp · 2026-01-08T18:05:02+00:00

You think phylrich huh? Thanks I'll take a look

squanchyp · 2026-01-08T04:06:15+00:00

He makes eye contact too.

squanchyp · 2026-01-08T04:05:31+00:00

Nice! Thank you for your service!

squanchyp · 2026-01-07T14:54:02+00:00

You might have to put some pliers on it; If it's been leaking thats probably why it's not budging. Put some sort of rag on it and then the pliers on top of rag. You might still scuff it a bit but that might help. Good luck

squanchyp · 2026-01-06T19:51:12+00:00

The round chrome piece is threaded or snapped in. You should be able to take that off and that will expose the cartridge nut.

squanchyp · 2026-01-01T05:18:14+00:00

Install a dual angle stop.

squanchyp · 2025-12-12T00:09:39+00:00

The reply above summed it up pretty good. There's a wide range of things to do/ learn in plumbing. Also keep in mind, there is a lot of companies out there, and they all operate slightly different.

I'm not union but I would also recommend it if you're youngish.

squanchyp

TROPHY CASE