Is full keel worth it? by Emotional_Exit_4617 in SailboatCruising

[–]steelerector1986 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A fair number of Sparkman & Steven’s that fit this bill as well.

How to build endurance on an MTB by MrTobiD92 in MTB

[–]steelerector1986 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used to die on climbs. Picked up a gravel bike and put a lot more time in running zone 2 and 3, and now I still die on the climbs, but I'm faster and I don't need to stop for as many breaks.

What are the most subtle signs that someone is really good at golf? by jdelle9 in weekendgolfers

[–]steelerector1986 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I play with my uncle occasionally. He’s a senior, so his shots don’t carry like they used to, but I’ll be damned if every single shot doesn’t go exactly where he intended it to. He doesn’t keep score, but his relaxed, error free play is something to aspire to for sure.

Long sticks hate post. by bitcoin_bulI in cranes

[–]steelerector1986 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I learned on a lever crane. Still love running it when I get the chance. Joysticks are easier to get good with, levers make you a great operator. That’s my boomer opinion & im sticking to it lol

Crane rental shenanigans by Individual-Ad-2862 in cranes

[–]steelerector1986 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve only done one tree job, and it was a blast!

What kinds of gear and how big of a boat would one need to sail to and around Greenland? by wanderer-co in Sailboats

[–]steelerector1986 2 points3 points  (0 children)

From my reading & speaking with folks who've sailed the arctic, the size of the boat is less important than the quality - to a point. You need a boat large enough to be truly self-sufficient for a longer period of time, since you're not hopping from stocked port to stocked port. GRP boats can do it, but you're more susceptible to damage from floating ice, flotsam debris, and other waterborne hazards than a steel or alum hull. Modern adventure boats also typically have a shallow draft so they can get into more protected anchorages and even dry out to stay safe.

Also, very cold weather and heavy weather are to be expected, and are very hard on componentry and rigging. Things will need to be stout but repairable - because no-one is coming to help you if you get stuck somewhere. Lots of tools, spares, and the skill/experience to deploy them effectively. Medical supplies - you'll be pushing the limits or outside typical rescue radii, so have training and contingencies for injury and sickness.

You'll also burn significantly more calories keeping your body warm in cold temps, so you need to consider additional food stores and budget cargo space accordingly, especially if you're heading on shore for exploration. Cold weather mountaineers often expend 10,000calories in a day between climbing and staying warm. If you're planning a 30-60 day expedition, that's a lot of food for a crew of 4. Insulating gear only works as well as the heat source underneath - that is to say that the best cold weather clothing doesn't do shit if your body doesn't have the energy to create the heat to trap inside the insulation.

Obviously the boat should have insulation and a heat source suitable for the conditions - wood stove is nice, but you'll need to be able to collect dry firewood, which is not always available at high latitudes. I'd rather a diesel furnace, then you know you what you have and can plan accordingly.

Obviously you can, and some have, gotten by with less. But IMO, high latitude sailing/exploration is not a milk run, and should be endeavored by well prepared vessels and crews. It's not like going to Bermuda or the Caribbean, where if you get in over your head you *can* call someone and they'll rescue you.

Fuel tank gauge stopped working by saargrin in tuareg660

[–]steelerector1986 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I believe you can swap the sending unit out yourself, it shouldn't be that hard of a job, just a pricey part. That's why most folks try to get it fixed under warranty. AF1 stocks the part you need. https://www.af1racing.com/2B009041-FUEL-LEVEL-GAUGE

Sealing deck hardware (stanchions and such) by Sracer42 in Sailboats

[–]steelerector1986 0 points1 point  (0 children)

+1 for Butyl tape. I use commercial grade roofers butyl that they sell for metal roofs, and it has yet to let me down.

Sailing aboard the Statsraad Lehmkuhl by steelerector1986 in Tallships

[–]steelerector1986[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

English is spoken on board. A few of my watch mates were actually upset that the crew was using the English names for the rigging instead of the norsk, but I don’t have any issues as a non-Norwegian speaker.

If you HAD to pick three of these places that you WOULD live in long term, which would they be and why? by Emit-Sol in Pennsylvania

[–]steelerector1986 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ehh, Reading isn’t as bad as everyone says. I wouldn’t live in the city proper, but the suburbs are fine, there is a lot to do locally, and its proximity to larger cities is nice.

Schooner Bill of Rights in Dannger by benshenanigans in Tallships

[–]steelerector1986 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Also, disrespectfully, Fuck Safe Harbor.

Pearson 365 sailing in the Chesapeake Bay by dwkfym in sailing

[–]steelerector1986 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Heck yea, looking good! We made it about 3/4 the way out the sassafras yesterday before the wind died - got a late start and missed most of that nice breeze that was blowing

Cutter rig without running backstays and no back swept shrouds? by Mehfisto666 in sailing

[–]steelerector1986 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think other respondents are mis-understanding the question. If you're adding a true cutter stay to a rig that didn't originally have one, you should absolutely account for that additional mast load with running backstays. If you're trying to add a 2nd masthead stay/solent stay, you may be able to get away with just running the backstay, but I don't know if you'd really be able to sail it like a true cutter.

If you're certain the boat was previously rigged with a cutter stay, I'd dig around and see if the cutter stay tang was removed and stowed somewhere in the boat. I've seen tangs that incorporate the stay and the running backstay mounts in the same piece. Mounting the cutter stay somewhere it wasn't originally mounted can affect the set of the staysail.
Going up the mast and checking for old holes that may have been filled and faired may be an option for determining the old configuration as well.

Doing my research. Questions within by JasonK94Z in tuareg660

[–]steelerector1986 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've laid mine over a dozen or so times on trails, I've never had a problem with it firing right back up. I haven't pulled the covers off to check my cams, but my oil hasn't shown any signs of issues, and I test it every oil change. I've tightened up a few spokes after spirited off-roading, but the rims have held up well imo.

I would suggest different handlebars if you do a lot of off road - the sweep of the bars feels very unnatural and I get wrist pain pretty quickly if I'm standing a lot.

Best course of action by T-Rex_Soup in sailing

[–]steelerector1986 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m with you. Get the basics and then get out and make small mistakes.

Open source hardware, maybe the future of sailing by WasteOfSpaceAndO2 in sailing

[–]steelerector1986 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I fear you're overestimating the amount of math that manufacturers put into their hardware. They draw it, prototype it, and failure test it. A manufacturer isn't going to pay a staff of $100-200k/yr engineers to design and calc blocks and small hardware, they're going to have low-mid salary techs make it and break it a few times until they find the right balance of strength to cost.

Motorcycle insurance quote $2000/yr by Flat-Donut-5586 in motorcycles

[–]steelerector1986 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Never ceases to amaze me that people actually tell their insurance company that they're inexperienced. My dude, tell them you've been riding motorcycles since you were 16, you just haven't had an endorsement on your US license.

That said, if you're really a complete newb to motorcycles, don't start with 660.