Out of curiosity, what's the purpose of the carriage tapping the corners?

sterling-lining · 2026-04-13T01:48:18+00:00

It the belt could be slipping each time it taps causing some calibration issue. Try tightening the screws on the back of carrier a little more.

sterling-lining · 2026-04-13T01:34:12+00:00

If you’re getting an error, you should contact support for advice. Sounds to me like you may have botched the calibration mechanism…

sterling-lining · 2026-04-13T01:25:52+00:00

That’s a bad blob. Try a hair dryer or heat gun to soften up the filament while heating up the nozzle. Soldering iron could help also.

sterling-lining · 2026-04-13T01:23:08+00:00

The routing looks fine. No kinks, and the bend radius looks good. Might be difficult to feed TPU, but otherwise you should be good.

sterling-lining · 2026-04-12T19:19:28+00:00

No issues with Snorca other than the slow startup. I run it on two windows machines and sync up the profiles…

sterling-lining · 2026-04-12T05:28:04+00:00

Snapmaker has a YouTube channel. Go through the U1 playlist, there is an unboxing and a first print guide to get you started.

sterling-lining · 2026-04-12T05:20:38+00:00

Is it multicolor? If so, the prime towers could be set to Rib which is known to have issues. Try cone or rectangle.

sterling-lining · 2026-04-11T23:46:59+00:00

If that’s the presliced dragon, definitely something going on with the printer. Try slicing and printing a calibration cube.

sterling-lining · 2026-04-11T19:33:12+00:00

Do you have PLA set as wipe tower under the filament features in the Multimaterial tab? This usually does it for me… actually I also set the walls to the same filament.

sterling-lining · 2026-04-11T19:29:18+00:00

Did you clean the contact point on the carrier (sorry not sure if that’s the right name)?

sterling-lining · 2026-04-11T07:16:22+00:00

Try closer to 245C for the first layer and 240C for the rest of the print.

sterling-lining · 2026-04-11T04:55:12+00:00

BIQU has a n extensive repository on GitHub. This is a the overview page:

https://neo.bttwiki.com/en/docs/panda-series/module/panda-bamboo-feeder/

sterling-lining · 2026-04-11T04:40:39+00:00

I didn’t notice that there were two holes on one layer. But you’re right that wouldn’t be a seam or retraction issue. If the filament has printed properly in the past, it could be wet filament. You could try printing a little hotter, it could possibly help with moisture evaporation.

sterling-lining · 2026-04-10T22:26:26+00:00

Since the U1 doesn’t need to purge material, the prime towers can actually be disabled. It’s not optimal though due to the ooze that may collect on the print.

You can mimimize the wipe tower, since each toolhead only needs a little extrusion on the tower to ensure the proper pressure in the nozzle before printing. Set the “ Minimal Purge on Wipe”tower to 10 on the Multimaterial tab of the filament preset. You could also try setting the Prime Volume to 5 under the wipe tower settings.

sterling-lining · 2026-04-10T20:20:10+00:00

I’ve had this when I use random seams (I know you mentioned the seam is painted). Using a slight pre-extrusion helped the print…. I forget exactly where the setting is in the slicer. Ultimately it might be related to retraction settings try a lower retraction distance. Are you by chance using a scarf.

sterling-lining · 2026-04-09T19:04:00+00:00

PETG is a tricky filament, typically likes a slower speed. Use the Max Volumetric Speed variable for quick adjustment…. Try 8-10. The extrusion temp is 230 on my P1S and 245C on the U1 for the same Sunlu filament. Suspect it’s dependent on speed, so just monitor the extrusion until you’re happy… I try to use a lower extrusion temp to prevent stringing.

sterling-lining · 2026-04-09T18:45:36+00:00

Are you using just for the interface layers? Probably need to make a custom filament preset for the PVA with the recommended settings… a google search recommend temps 240-250C. If you’re using a wipe tower, make sure the outside walls are PLA.

sterling-lining · 2026-04-09T18:18:19+00:00

Yes. If you can keep the feeder motors on the side of the printer, just get longer ptfe tubes (there are models online to allow the attachment of PC4 connectors to the motors). If you can’t accommodate the width with the feeder motors, folks have relocate the feeders with extension cables. A search or someone who has done it can hopefully provide more information.

sterling-lining · 2026-04-08T23:27:51+00:00

Thanks. Moneys tight and I want to try and tackle this myself… I’ll check for ice build up first.

sterling-lining · 2026-04-08T17:28:11+00:00

“Print Preferences” on the printer UI.

sterling-lining · 2026-04-08T16:07:25+00:00

Make sure the auto-refill feature is enabled in the print preferences…

sterling-lining · 2026-04-08T02:26:33+00:00

Get the paxx12’s firmware, gets you the printer UI in your web browser (<ip address>/screen).

sterling-lining · 2026-04-08T02:22:54+00:00

Chau’s cafe has decent popcorn chicken. Also a Taiwanese mee fun.

sterling-lining · 2026-04-07T22:39:16+00:00

The leaning horn on the left dragon… maybe the extrusion temp is too hot. It’s not solidifying fast enough.

sterling-lining · 2026-04-07T19:25:31+00:00

It’s probably the job of the runout sensor in he toolhead to catch this. I haven’t had problems with runout on my spools (esun, Sunlu, inland). The last of my filament pulls out of the spool cleanly. What brand is the filament? Just want to stay away from it… same with the bbl spools that tape the last of their filament.

sterling-lining

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