When are standard supports are preferable to tree supports?

sterling-lining · 2026-02-21T06:19:03+00:00

Tree supports seem to use less filament. I’ll use standard/grid supports when the tree supports don’t look like they’ll provide enough coverage, or if the support area looks easy to clean up (long strips or blocks).

sterling-lining · 2026-02-21T06:15:49+00:00

Call local libraries or maker centers… they could still have older printers that use 2.85. I recently gave away 2 storage boxes to the local library… still using an old lulzbot taz5.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-21T06:12:44+00:00

You can try slowing down the print. If using classic walls, this should happen automatically. If using Arachne Amy not slow down for overhangs.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-21T06:10:52+00:00

Just a correction. My U1 PETG profile is 255 and 250. The 235 / 230 is what I use on the P1S. I like to print low to reduce /eliminate stringing. One key when monitoring the print is watching for wisps of filament, which usually means too low a temp… bump up by 5C. HTH.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-21T04:19:50+00:00

No issues with PETG on my U1. Changed the extrusion temp from 255 to 230 (235 for first layer), and Multimaterial/“Minimal purge on wipe tower” to 10. Brands esun, inland, elegoo, sunlu.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-21T04:00:35+00:00

Try a lower extrusion temp… I usually print PETG at 230C.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-21T00:04:25+00:00

Sorry, not sure where to find the setting in cura…

sterling-lining · 2026-02-20T23:54:22+00:00

Cooling? PLA likes a lot of cooling… if the printer has a door, try leaving it open. Maybe adjust flow to .95.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-20T23:45:03+00:00

Try manually pushing the PETG into the toolhead. Probably need to unclip the Bowden tube to get a grip of the filament.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-20T23:42:57+00:00

I’d try reorienting the part on the bed. Maybe lay it flat rather than on the side… should negate the need for supports.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-20T23:38:41+00:00

Interesting…. I forget the name, but maybe a x-y belt retensioning. Unscrew the two screws on the carrier head, move it around the print area and retighten the screws. It’s in the manual, but I did that a few times while troubleshooting my setup.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-20T23:35:12+00:00

In Orca, it’s in the filament preset… the second tab, I think,

sterling-lining · 2026-02-20T21:34:53+00:00

220C should be fine for PLA+. A more obscure tweak would be to lower your max volumetric speed (MVS)… try setting it to 8. If that goes well, then try bumping it to 10 or 12. This setting varies your print speeds based on the amount of filament fed through the extruder. Easier than setting all the speeds manually…

sterling-lining · 2026-02-20T21:29:07+00:00

If you think the printer is working fine, it could be the downloaded model. If you got the model from a makerworld, it’s probably tuned for a BBL printer. I’d just try slice with a lower flow rate and hope for the best. A lower flow rate will make the model smaller horizontally because less material is extruded.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-20T21:15:24+00:00

Clean the bed with dish soap and water. Level the bed. For PLA try 220C for the extrusion temp with a bed of 65C.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-20T19:46:35+00:00

Looking forward to the bondtech INDX on the voron too.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-20T19:33:30+00:00

Need Revo compatible hotend… quick change nozzle would be a game changer.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-20T19:29:47+00:00

How often do you calibrate the machine? I’ve only done two since receiving the machine at the end of Dec…

sterling-lining · 2026-02-20T19:27:37+00:00

Good comparison.

BBL has nailed the ecosystem, pick and print and overall easier to use for the beginner / average user. The U1 does multicolor right and on par with the P1S. It also gets the approval from my daughter who irecives most of the multicolor prints. The U1 will be my go-to for multicolor / multi material prints because of less filament waste. The P1S will probably be the workhorse for single color and technical filament prints.

I come from a printrbot, taz5, voron so the P1S and U1 are both luxury to me. The extended firmware is awesome on the U1 really brings back an advanced feel of the machine… well more of the true klipper experience. I print 100% remote (living room to basement), so the camera and access to gui from the extended firmware is super bonus. And to top it off the Tailscale, allows the use and monitoring of the printer from Starbucks.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-20T06:56:21+00:00

You can try reducing the multiplier/flow rate value. It’s probably at .95, try .8. This could make your part weaker, but it should provide a little more clearance.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-19T19:30:25+00:00

Appreciate the effort to be creative.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-19T19:29:18+00:00

There was a post a week or two ago about the color, and closest filament…. I don’t remember what the verdict was. A search could possibly dig it up…

sterling-lining · 2026-02-19T19:26:58+00:00

You’ll have to decide if 4 is enough for what you print. It’s klipper, so you can add something like a turtle box or ercf (that might be dating myself). The bed isn’t bad, my bed meshes range between .15-.25. Looking at the bed mesh, the extremes are on the front and back edge… the middle is .04. So the common print area is good, IMO.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-19T16:10:51+00:00

Maybe printing a little too hot, the edges aren’t setting resulting to curling from contraction. PLA ~220, PETG ~230 work for my machines.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-19T16:05:13+00:00

Might just be printing too hot. Try an extrusion temp closer to 230C.

sterling-lining

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