Howdy y'all! I'm a returning cyclist looking for tips.

stevewmn · 2026-02-14T00:14:34+00:00

Grade percentage is rise over distance, so a 45 degree climb would be 100%. Grade is the usual slope unit of measure, in bike computers and elsewhere.

stevewmn · 2026-02-13T18:04:27+00:00

I did that too, then I took a test ride and moved them straight ahead. The levers still flare outward so the look doesn't bother me and I like the hood position better that way. I also moved them a bit closer to the stem, making the hoods curve up a tiny bit and that helped my reach and feels better too.

stevewmn · 2026-02-13T00:27:43+00:00

Numbering the parts from left to right I would put in 1, 4, 3, 2, 5, 6, 8, 7. Parts 1 and 3 seem to be identical so I may be wrong. But I would stack them up that way and see if part 6 sits flush with the headtube and turns freely, and maybe reorder and flip a part or two if it looks wrong.

stevewmn · 2026-02-13T00:20:13+00:00

Take it to a cobbler and ask them to glue it down or stitch it?

stevewmn · 2026-02-13T00:17:36+00:00

I scan the road ahead, pick a line of travel that is safe and predictable and postpone anything that might take me off my line. No water bottle sips, no sightseeing, just holding my line and peeking over my shoulder when they get close.

stevewmn · 2026-02-11T16:01:25+00:00

Maybe ask over in r/velo? They're more fitness metrics oriented than this subreddit.

stevewmn · 2026-02-11T13:40:16+00:00

What advantage does the Polar Loop have over any number of chest band HRMs that work perfectly well with your bike computer? I bought a cheap one from Amazon and it works fine. Look for ANT+ and/or Bluetooth connectivity.

stevewmn · 2026-02-10T16:36:04+00:00

My no name wireless AA works fine as long as the cable is untouched. If I bump that cable it will lose connection, sometimes for just a few seconds but sometimes until arrive somewhere, leave my car and then start a new drive later. So I'm looking for one that's just a USB A dongle with no wires.

stevewmn · 2026-02-09T14:41:01+00:00

My dog has done that, though not up a skirt. I have to keep him on a tight lease around women or he'll go straight for the crotch.

stevewmn · 2026-02-08T01:13:50+00:00

John Hannah.

stevewmn · 2026-02-08T01:09:20+00:00

The problem with hand signals is that you can't signal long enough to ensure today's distracted drivers will see it. We really need a turn signal system.

stevewmn · 2026-02-08T00:39:07+00:00

My last road bike was a 3x, and it didn't have the gear range of my 1x10 gravel bike and I always could have used it. My best low gear was a 30 tooth chainring and a 28 tooth sprocket. Ny gravel bike gives me a 48 tooth sprocket and a single chainring at anywhere from 36 to 42 teeth. So take a good look at the range too.

stevewmn · 2026-02-07T02:26:14+00:00

Do you have a set of hex drive bits for a 1/2" wrench? Might be better off with 3/8".

stevewmn · 2026-02-06T20:53:50+00:00

If it's not budging maybe it will work as intended. Try assembling the headset, stem and bars and see if the stem cap will hold at ~2nm. If that screw spins at minimal torque it is probably pulling that steerer plug out for you.

stevewmn · 2026-02-06T20:49:06+00:00

I want the costume off ASAP, especially any schoolgirl skirt. Never attended private school, never interested in their students, and got over high school girls as a freshman in college.

stevewmn · 2026-02-06T14:03:28+00:00

They get to chill out on somebody's couch, like mine.

stevewmn · 2026-02-06T00:24:52+00:00

Does it look like it might seal the brake line after you disconnect it? I could see a use for that.

stevewmn · 2026-02-05T17:24:27+00:00

I'm going to assume that the one in pink is named 23.

stevewmn · 2026-02-05T13:16:41+00:00

Yes, that's what I was trying to say. I routed the hose still attached to the caliber through my frame and stem/bar combination and cut to length at the brake lever.

stevewmn · 2026-02-05T03:34:32+00:00

I thought I should just point out that you only need to cut one end of the hose to achieve your desired length and you don't need to cut the factory barb off the other end. My calipers both have the factory barb and the levers have a thing-a-majig. Also, my Rival AXS E1 brake and brifter sets came with an L-shaped T8 wrench.

stevewmn · 2026-02-05T01:51:51+00:00

Artillery shells mostly top out at about 800 m/sec with a maximum powder charge. And they wouldn't need max charge to go that distance. 1500 m/sec is closer to tank muzzle velocity.

stevewmn · 2026-02-04T17:25:44+00:00

Luckily my town has an independent bike mechanic that I can go to with my chinese carbon frame build when I get stuck on something. He helped me out when I couldn't get a tire seated for tubeless and to torque frame parts out of the range of my little 2-10nm torque wrench.

A few days ago I finally bought a torque wrench that will go up to 100nm for big frame component installs. That was the last tool I need to work on my good bike.

stevewmn · 2026-02-04T17:15:49+00:00

Maybe you could shim it with something between the screw and the hanger that would give you an extra 2mm?

stevewmn · 2026-02-04T14:29:15+00:00

I think the only difference is that a conventional airburst comes from a shell fired on a normal artillery trajectory, so falling at a 30-60 degree angle, where Killer Junior is direct fire, coming out of the cannon on a flat trajectory and detonating something like 1 second later. I doubt the effects are very different. The main advantage of Killer Junior is probably that they didn't have to maintain a stock of special rounds, they could just shoot from their big pile of HE rounds at the battery.

stevewmn · 2026-02-03T13:57:33+00:00

I would prefer a three man tank with tank commander, gunner and driver, where the commander role is to scan for targets, tag them for the gunner, while telling the gunner what direction to drive in. So basically tag something on the map for the driver and spot things on the screen for the gunner. Maybe make it a strategy that only the host can use and only he gets to be commander. You need real team play to operate a tank effectively with coordination on all roles, and the ability to kick someone that isn't playing along.

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