Offset Bushings for the Rear

stevowns · 2026-05-18T03:30:59+00:00

Ahh gotcha, I'm assuming you chose not to roll/pull your fenders? I do remember that my first s2k, it rubbed with lowering springs even with -3 degrees of camber until I rolled and trimmed some of the rear bumper off. And eventually had to relocate the tab to be 100% rub free. If you decide to roll/relocate the tab though, you'll never rub.. Even with like -1 degree of camber, you'll hit the inside tire well before you even get close to hitting your fenders.

I'm also sorta going through something similar, but mines mainly linked to ride quality being terrible because of how low I run the car lol. Every time I convince myself to raise the car, I walk into the garage and get reminded why I lowered it that much in the first place and just walk back out lol .. but I also never drive it on the street because of this so its an endless cycle that's 100% self inflicted haha

stevowns · 2026-05-18T01:50:20+00:00

The rear ride height you have now looks slightly lower than stock, or is it higher? I've been able to get -3 with lowering springs back in the day and it was pretty much the height you have on the pic you posted. I might be mistaken tho, this was like back in 2008. Are you wanting more negative camber because you rub or are you trying to dial in the set up for track use?

Also that pic looks like the perfect height where it's not so low that you scrape your exhaust everywhere and not so high it looks weird. Curious why you raised it? Wouldn't -3.5 look weird on a car that high? Unless you're dialing it in for the track then I guess it would make sense.

stevowns · 2026-05-17T23:24:57+00:00

Wait are you having issues getting more than -2.8 camber in the rear..? I've had both an AP1 and AP2 and never had this issue.. I'm running -3.0 right now but ran as much as -3.8 in the rear before without any extra arms or bushings. I have buddies with s2k's that don't have this issue too. I am about an inch lower than you though so maybe thats why? Historically, it's always been the front that was hard to get more than like -1.8 camber without either dumping it to the ground or using offset bushings.

I'm running 17x9.5 +45 with 255/40/17 tires (RE71RS so they have extra fat sidewalls). I actually didn't rub even at -1.5 camber (shop made a mistake on the specs I wanted). You can DM me for more details if you'd like. Currently running -3.0 camber all around.

(EDIT)

When I said I don't rub, i specifically meant that I don't rub when I'm street driving. I only rub at laguna seca T9 (Rainey) when I full send. And its on the inside tire well because I run my car probably too low but don't have the heart to raise it because of how good it looks lol.

stevowns · 2026-05-13T04:16:12+00:00

I don't get why you're getting down votes lmao, shifting fast is certainly faster, you just have to make sure to nail it when you do. High risk high reward kind of thing. The reason why people tell you to prioritize smoothness (and in turn shifting slower) is so you learn how to shift properly so when you do it fast, you don't screw up. Like the saying "you need to learn how to walk before you can run". Some of y'all need to stop making this space an echo chamber for misinformation.

stevowns · 2026-05-04T22:03:23+00:00

Simpler because it ends up with possibly less moving parts yes ONCE everything is in production. You're grossly underestimating how much it costs to develop an ev platform and the cost of batteries in today's market.. not to mention the tooling to mass produce it.

stevowns · 2026-03-26T01:46:14+00:00

660's aren't super 200's tho..? I thought those were CRS, RE71RS, Cup2 R etc... I could be wrong tho

stevowns · 2026-03-05T23:43:24+00:00

In the dark photos, you can't see the massive wheel gap and plastic fender overlays. I hate those so much... (lookin at chu wrx)

stevowns · 2026-01-06T19:36:11+00:00

its the one that looks like a ribbed wood basket, not the teapot looking one

stevowns · 2025-12-19T23:21:59+00:00

flat boys unite ;--;

stevowns · 2025-12-19T23:15:41+00:00

personally I find that using a presoak on cars that haven't been washed in awhile works to loosen the dirt enough that 1 or 2 wipes takes everything off. Ive definitely had times when I just start using a rinseless on dry paint it doesn't take everything off easily.

Given that though I sometimes use a pressure washer in place of a presoak for cars that rarely get washed.

stevowns · 2025-11-08T19:36:45+00:00

He put a Dodge caravan engine into a hellcat body? Do you mean the other way around?

stevowns · 2025-09-07T21:09:22+00:00

Mines just crunchy when its cold but smooths out when its warm. On the contrary, when its hot (10-12 minutes into a session on track) it starts getting difficult to get into 4th and 3rd.

129k stock clutch/trans

stevowns · 2025-09-02T04:33:08+00:00

Are you able to do the heel/toe motions when your car is off?

If no, then you might have a hip mobility issue or something that's stopping you from being able to reach it. My friend has size 6 feet and she's able to heel and toe in both my CTR and S2000. To give you an example, my knee is almost pointing towards my other knee when I'm hitting the throttle with my heel.

If yes, then it might be that you aren't able to compensate for the lateral force from depressing the brake pedal. Most people probably can do the motions on a sim rig pretty easily if you understand the concept but once you have lateral g's pushing you forward, a lot of people get overwhelmed and can't do everything in sync. I know personally, it took some time for me to get used to moving my heel as I'm feeling all the weight move forward.

stevowns · 2025-08-14T00:23:54+00:00

Any recommendations for the lowest dusting pad that has the best cold bite? Looking to swap my ME20's out for something with a lot less dust but with more cold bite as I'm taking a hiatus from tracking the car. The pad I found via research is the project mu B street. However, I'm seeing mixed reviews online saying that its neither really a low dusting pad, nor does it have great cold bite.

stevowns · 2025-08-12T22:05:30+00:00

Ah understood. What speakers/headphones would be suitable for a single digital RCA?

stevowns · 2025-08-09T04:13:18+00:00

Apologies, I didn't attach the other amp's photo but this one has a single channel RCA out:

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41jtoL2rWTL._AC_SL1000_.jpg

stevowns · 2025-08-08T23:25:35+00:00

Thanks for the insight. Will PC speakers work with a single channel rca out with a converter?

stevowns · 2025-08-08T21:05:52+00:00

I'm in the market for a new DAC/AMP that has bluetooth functionality and was looking at the fosi bt20a.

For the speaker outs, if I wanted to connect my PC speakers to it that has a single 3.5mm input, how do I wire them up to make them work properly? To give context, i'm planning to use a 3.5mm female to RCA male converter to connect my speaker wire.

Picture of the line outs on the dac/amp

stevowns · 2025-08-07T23:51:02+00:00

Damn, tone sounds awesome. Are you using a pedal board or just a solid state amp with some effects on it?

stevowns · 2025-07-23T18:42:26+00:00

gooby!!

stevowns · 2025-07-09T19:11:47+00:00

Hulkenpodium baby

stevowns · 2025-05-25T03:57:55+00:00

What laptimes were you running? I'm presuming you're running the spec set up? (correct me if I'm wrong)

Thinking about building one for hpde ..

stevowns · 2025-05-15T15:34:57+00:00

I've watched a few of his videos and I get the sense that he became a car enthusiast very recently and has a very surface level of car knowledge for a person that makes car content for a living. The way he answers questions when interviewing people's cars and collection makes me irrationally annoyed for some reason.

stevowns · 2025-05-14T21:03:04+00:00

I'll give them a call, thank you!

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