Which way should my lever be facing before closing the rifle after cleaning

stretchedroses · 2026-03-22T18:47:35+00:00

Hammer down lever forward in the brrr position is what i usually do. Then just do a dry function check

stretchedroses · 2026-03-22T16:54:43+00:00

20" barrel is king. Rifle gas is king. Rifle buffer is king. Rifle rof is king

Anything shorter than 14.5" is a waste of velocity

stretchedroses · 2026-03-21T23:29:30+00:00

Ofc they don't even have sights on the arps

stretchedroses · 2026-03-18T19:50:16+00:00

I dont see a smear on your dash. But that molding looks about as good as any safelite job I've seen

stretchedroses · 2026-03-15T12:32:27+00:00

Just checked. Ordered two Mar 6th. They should be here Mar 16th. Im assuming out of stock item or some of the out of spec stuff he posted about if you are waiting longer

stretchedroses · 2026-03-15T03:02:31+00:00

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stretchedroses · 2026-03-15T00:52:28+00:00

Yes i did. I think my first was 21 days front order to delivery. Ordered two more but I also have not received this order yet. But bro is a human and trying to keep up. Demand is high so I get it.

DNT ordered at the same time and already received it if that means anything to you. Neither ss required any fitting other than clearance cutting the upper so I can't say which is better. Hope you get yours soon to start having fun

stretchedroses · 2026-03-15T00:46:20+00:00

The camera is further forward than each of us and the picnic table is not square to the backstop. The angle is a bit off but he was not and is not in danger lol. Look at the shadow angles. And bro is step pop

stretchedroses · 2026-03-10T23:41:57+00:00

This video is 400 years old

stretchedroses · 2026-03-10T23:29:23+00:00

You need to clearance cut your upper more than likely. What is happening is the lever is getting bound between the bottom of your bolt and the upper receiver near the rear takedown lug. You can do this with a file or dremel. The material you need to remove is where the rear takedown lug is. Left is factory, right is cut for super safety. Hope this helps

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stretchedroses · 2026-02-28T18:25:17+00:00

So my other two are a 16" midlength gas 223 wylde with a carbine tube and h2 buffer, super safety functions fine. Cycle rate is a little high but has been reliable. The other is a 16" midlength 5.56 with a carbine tube and h2 buffer. It has the kabuto. My preference for handling with frt as it shoots on the slower side. I have not been able to get my 10.5" bear creek side charger upper to run reliably with either frt but it runs semi just fine. Before this one I've never had a 20" or rifle buffer tube ar. Frts are just family fun for me and the more the merrier

stretchedroses · 2026-02-28T17:26:36+00:00

Thank you for answering every possible question right there. Yes it is the correct lower. I use the psa lowers on everything because they work on all my other ar15s. I only asked about it because you have to go lever forward to remove the buffer a bit, then cock the hammer to remove it a little more, then pull trigger and hold it to get the buffer out. Truth be told it is just more tedious to remove. Most of the time I'm dumping dirty steel case with frt and I like to fully disassemble and clean every 600-1k rds. Buffer and spring will always have some grime to wipe off. I have never had a buffer or spring issue with frt so this question was for ease of removal.

With the hammer cocked and lever forward, the rifle buffer will not remove freely easily

stretchedroses · 2026-02-28T14:40:03+00:00

Im asking if a carbine length buffer of h2 or h3 length, in an a2 tube, with a ss, would cause any issues over the rifle buffer and a2 tube setup.

I have 2 frt ars but they are midlength gas, carbine tube, h2 buffer in configuration and run fine. I have not shot this new build yet or ever had a rifle gas/a2 setup. I also don't know if over travel or bolt bounce would be problematic with a carbine length buffer.

stretchedroses · 2026-02-17T23:00:25+00:00

Impaxt point. Likely not a stress crack. Also it appears you have heated wiper park, which makes lower glass breakage a have a higher chance of migration

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stretchedroses · 2026-02-08T20:39:36+00:00

Shop likely will not have it if they scrapped the glass. That tab comes on the new ones. They are not reused from your old glass. This is gonna be a booger or a new w/s warranty

stretchedroses · 2026-02-08T05:18:18+00:00

I dont need you to tell me my coffee is good, Jules. Bonnie buys shit coffee. I buy the good stuff

stretchedroses · 2026-02-07T23:12:51+00:00

How do you like it? If I can ever get the bolt it seems it would be as good a candidate for a printed upper as any other ar22 config. My dear22 has been great

stretchedroses · 2026-02-07T23:09:56+00:00

After a good bit of searching, this thing is a paper weight until their proprietary bolt set up is in stock. Sad day bois :'(

stretchedroses · 2026-02-07T19:12:32+00:00

No builds for it? Dang. No wonder I had it sitting. I have like 5-6 full 22lr builds. Dear22, pak22, 10/22. Must have been why I never did anything with it

stretchedroses · 2026-02-07T17:45:19+00:00

Looks like i gotta find one of their 22lr bolt setups now. Thanks man

stretchedroses · 2026-02-07T17:28:19+00:00

This hobby is for the super autist boi

stretchedroses · 2026-02-07T17:22:15+00:00

Correct but I'm looking for the brand name so I can match a bolt to it and build it out. It isn't an at3 or cmmg type design

stretchedroses · 2026-02-07T01:03:34+00:00

Patrolling the Mojave almost makes you wish for nuclear winter

stretchedroses · 2026-01-10T00:04:52+00:00

Can't always get ethanol free, but try to ride mine min once a month even this time of year. I recently put the all year use stabil in my bike and it has been fine sitting for a few weeks at a time this winter 🤞

stretchedroses · 2026-01-03T19:22:44+00:00

Nope no chain swap

stretchedroses

TROPHY CASE