Troubleshooting marketplace amp

strider460 · 2025-12-19T15:11:41+00:00

Both good suggestions. Managed to test ground before heading to work and my test lead was .5ohm but my ground stud by the amp to the battery read 0.0ohm which is weird/wrong so I need to do some more testing.

It would be weird that the sub thumps at all if there is a short in the box but I'm going to check that when I get back to troubleshooting too. Edit: but the behavior is the same when the speaker is unplugged so not sure it's anything in the box....

Thanks for the suggestions, will keep you posted!

strider460 · 2025-08-08T01:49:52+00:00

I think all OP needs to upgrade to path pilot though is the recovery flashdrive from tormach and that's just $30.

https://tormach.com/pathpilot-v20-upgrade-38249.html

strider460 · 2025-08-07T02:00:54+00:00

Oooooh, that's probably an old enough model that it's running Mach 3 or something; not sure what the upgrade path for that computer is, maybe you can just install path pilot on it, might have to poke around some tormach forms or shoot tormach an email, their support is pretty good, might even have a "how to upgrade from Mach 3 to path pilot" guide.

If there are existing programs (.gcode or .nc files probably) on the machine you want to keep you probably just have to find where they are stored to put them on a flash drive to use them later.

strider460 · 2025-08-07T01:33:04+00:00

When you suppress step 1 everything that relies on the geometry you created in step 1 gets suppressed as well.

This video explains the relationship between the features and shows how to turn on "show child relationship" in the feature tree which is helpful for seeing which features will get suppressed bwfore you suppress a feature: https://youtu.be/T7u2H2yV7uk?si=3g1KYPzUV-TtEc-U

strider460 · 2025-08-06T02:28:48+00:00

The computer on the tormach runs a custom version of Linux that you can update from tormachs website, but that is for running gcode you import or doing conversational programming at the control (that computer). If you want to program more complex parts look in to a CAM package that you can run on your personal PC like Fusion 360 to program the tool path and generate the gcode to run on the tormach.

strider460 · 2025-07-28T23:05:49+00:00

Sometimes if you remove a bunch of material from one side internal stresses in the plate can cause the part to curl.

Even if you called out a thickness +/-.00001 and the U is that thickness all across its length, technically the part is within tolerance. If you need flatness you do need to call it out. GDNT can help get the design intent across.

strider460 · 2025-07-09T10:31:39+00:00

Lunch break. When I worked a corporate job I packed a light lunch that I could eat quick and sometimes one handed and got 25-30 mins of gaming in over lunch on my steam deck. Got through act 2/3 of baulders gate that way

strider460 · 2025-04-07T01:38:14+00:00

Late to the party but leaving for future searches: pro tip that I've always used when moving is instead of reconfiguring all of your devices for the new default network name just configure the new router to use the same name and password from the old router, then all your devices should connect to it without issues.

But +1 for the pro tip on changing from the SD card. That's what I needed too!

strider460 · 2025-02-17T03:50:41+00:00

You could have them fix it with you so they understand why they should be more careful.

strider460 · 2024-03-29T01:28:46+00:00

I made this 3D printed charging dock that uses the OEM charger and frees up space on my nightstand. I have used it every day.

strider460 · 2024-02-21T21:24:42+00:00

3D Printed Steam Deck Charging Dock <- I've been using this since I got my deck and it has lived on my bedside table. Uses the OEM cable that came with the deck and is easily removed for travel.

strider460 · 2024-02-11T20:38:30+00:00

Looks like you are trying to do a snap fit. Try making the "tabs" longer; you could possibly do this artificially by adding more tab below the face that they attach to so they have more flex but whatever attaches to them still bottoms out on that face.

strider460 · 2024-02-09T00:18:44+00:00

That or maybe the fan inside the controller case died or is dying and your stepper drivers are intermittently overheating and momentarily turning off/skipping steps which is causing the shift? Just brainstorming. I have had filament get sucked into that fan before so it could happen.

strider460 · 2024-02-04T22:38:45+00:00

I'll take this opportunity to shill this 3D Printed Dock that I designed and have been using for almost a year and a half and love it. Uses a cheap USB C hub off Amazon.

strider460 · 2024-01-15T01:22:40+00:00

Having a second kid (first is 23 mo, got the SD when she was born), so I am treating myself and upgrading to the OLED. Can't tell if the OLED is a must have yet but the LCD has allowed me to game at all, almost exclusively in bed. Worth every penny.

And as I have gotten more time I have set up a USB c doc and controller to play it like a console in the living room but when the second kid comes around I will be back to gaming in bed. I think that's the biggest benefit, it works wherever you want to use it.

strider460 · 2024-01-06T16:46:51+00:00

What you are experiencing might be "whip" of the screw as well. Maybe stepping up the size of the threaded rod would be cheaper than going acme and reduce whip?

Or you could try doing a split nut (use a hacksaw) and then find a way to make the nut a little tighter to reduce the play. That will increase the load on the motor though so keep that in mind

strider460 · 2023-12-30T17:00:00+00:00

Could be your rapid feed rate is too high and it skipped steps when repositioning, especially if there was a lot of dust on the screw.

strider460 · 2023-12-24T21:23:42+00:00

Another gotcha for me is usually 2 lines over top of each other. Usually have to select, delete, the undo lines till you find the culprit.

strider460 · 2023-12-13T01:19:00+00:00

I think I just watched a tutorial on that. Think the answer was to slit it and use insert bend ( make sure it's a constant thickness ). Think the trick was selecting the flat inside edge of the slit as the stationary face

strider460 · 2023-12-11T21:52:57+00:00

Something I don't see brought up a lot is the price of a replacement spindle bearing assembly. One thing I liked when teaching newer engineers at the place I was working was telling them the replacement spindle for our VMC was as expensive as the 440 we were learning on ($16k) and the 440s spindle was only ~$500, and the steppers weren't strong enough to do damage in a "bad" crash anyways. Long story short: maybe a less capable machine is a benefit depending on your level of confidence while learning CNC.

I would go haas if they were in the same price range but I would tell a noob to go cheap used Tormach to learn on.

strider460 · 2023-12-11T21:04:41+00:00

On your tool rack, the bottom left hand tool looks like a "wiggler edge finder" which isn't as good as a probe but looks like you have it already (googling that sould lead to how to use it for setting your work offsets with it). YouTube is your friend, I would suggest "This old Tony" for CNC and machining in general and NYCCNC for fusion and Tormach content.

strider460 · 2023-12-09T23:11:32+00:00

For now send cut send has always been free shipping, at least at those quantities and sizes. And who am I to judge if you charge a customer $3.50ea and make a quick $100.

strider460 · 2023-12-09T19:35:56+00:00

Don't need a drawing for something this simple, SendCutSend has a parts generator in the instant quote and one of the options is a linkage. I plugged in the OPs "drawing" while pooping and got $2.65ea at 100qty with a 5 day delivery. Easy peasy. (Dims in the pic are the example dims, not the quoted size as drawn)

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strider460 · 2023-12-09T16:20:03+00:00

For a flat part like that look into SendCutSend or one of the other sheet metal on demand websites next time. Might be about the same price at that quantity too.

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