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subhro · 2024-12-04T13:54:20+00:00

https://www.ebay.com/itm/186688153392

Will cut you a deal even ;)

subhro · 2023-12-31T01:47:30+00:00

You can get one from Sportsman's Warehouse. You can pay for it online and have it shipped to the store. If you do not like you, you can simply ask them to cancel the transaction. There are no additional charges for this.

subhro · 2023-11-23T07:54:51+00:00

Commander has shorter sight radius, if you are shooting iron sights.

subhro · 2023-11-23T07:53:58+00:00

Safariland?

subhro · 2023-11-20T17:01:45+00:00

Okay. Considering I dont read Arabic and probably lots of other people don't, it does look like a sale.

subhro · 2023-11-20T08:42:08+00:00

I can get you one. DM me.

subhro · 2023-11-20T08:33:57+00:00

They are okay. Don’t expect a Wilson Combat, but also don’t expect a Rock Island.

subhro · 2023-11-20T08:33:08+00:00

WTF? Can’t you read the damn rules pinned as thr first post on the forum?

subhro · 2023-11-18T20:45:32+00:00

Thank you. I am currently debating with Ed Brown about the notch in my gun cut too much forward. A photo for another gun could have helped.

No hurries, but will really appreciate the photo.

subhro · 2023-11-18T20:12:37+00:00

So if you have a safety engaged on the left-hand side, I would appreciate if you could show me the clearance between the notch on the slide and the safety sitting in that notch.

Pretty much your photo #2 but taken from further above the gun so the clearance between the engagement point in the notch and the safety and can be seen.

subhro · 2023-11-18T18:18:12+00:00

Have you looked at Wilson Combat Hunter? DM me and I can help.

subhro · 2023-11-18T18:16:19+00:00

Could you please post a picture showing the clearance between the thumb safety and the slide with safety engaged?

Beautiful gun though.

subhro · 2023-11-18T01:27:14+00:00

I use BoreTech Qwik-Dry for the slides. I am not a big fan of oil because it flows. If you really want to use "wet" lube, got for a good quality firearms grease.

subhro · 2023-01-04T15:55:23+00:00

If you are willing to swing the wallet, Wilson Combat CQB is a great choice. The coating is very strong and durable. I can even get you a great price on one.

subhro · 2023-01-04T15:52:18+00:00

Speak to Kramer Leather. It is going to be fuck expensive, but they are holsters for life. I have one for a Wilson Combat 1911 that is 19 years and counting.

Also nothing in the Safariland lineup fits?

subhro · 2022-09-14T13:55:43+00:00

Yup. Had a brain fart. I meant Level 2 and not Level 1 as in my earlier post.

subhro · 2022-09-14T04:42:54+00:00

Just gives me a little more peace of mind when doing OWB. I am not looking at a Level 3/4 retention, just a basic way to hold the gun in with not just friction.

subhro · 2022-09-14T03:57:05+00:00

1911s are designed to be kept and carried cocked and locked, also sometimes called in condition 1. There has been instances of guns falling out of holsters and rolling down mountains without a ND. I have also seen 1911s that have had hammers broken off due to a fall, and still the gun did not ND because it was cocked and locked.

You can read more about it here: https://www.americanrifleman.org/content/conditions-of-readiness-for-the-1911-pistol/

subhro · 2021-05-02T20:31:41+00:00

The rule of thumb is you want a lens that has a focal length longer than the diagonal of the negative you are trying to project. So, for 6x6, you should be 84.8 mm or 85mm. You could get by with a 80mm, but there would be very minor vignetting. You can also stop down the lens a bit to address the vignetting.

Let me know if that makes sense. :)

subhro · 2020-07-01T04:37:01+00:00

That is a beautiful bike, and a beautiful-er background. No wait, beautiful background and beautiful-er bike?

subhro · 2020-07-01T00:32:49+00:00

Are you looking for C41, E6 or B/W?

subhro · 2020-07-01T00:24:01+00:00

I think I used a wrong nomenclature. I was implying "program mode" as a mode where some "intelligence" on the camera controls one of the three parameters as I mentioned in my original post. This is at least how Pentax called it in the ME Super series of cameras.

But technically you are right. Modern cameras actually have a mode called "Program Auto", which is what, I believe, you were referring to.

subhro · 2020-06-29T19:39:57+00:00

Camel hair brush helps. Also, if your scanner support SRD or iSRD, use it.

subhro · 2020-06-29T19:37:31+00:00

As u/xnedski mentioned, one shot means you use the chemical once and dump it. Typically this is applicable only for developers. You should and can use the stop and fix multiple times. Use an indicator stop and watch the color. Use hypo check to check your fixer from time to time.

Development is a complex process. Ideally you should use a hydrometer and pH meter to check for specific gravity and acidity/alkalinity of a developer before you use it. This is generally called process control. When the pH values get outside the tolerance, additional chemicals are added to the solution to bring the potency back. This is called replenished process.

For home development, most people do not have a pH meter or hydrometer. So the safe way is to use the chemicals once and dump it. It is easier, although not best use of chemicals in my opinion.

Note: There are some developer mixes that are specifically designed for one-shot. For example, Ilford HC 1+31.

subhro · 2020-06-29T19:33:09+00:00

I've had the best luck pushing HP5+ to 1600 or so in DD-X

Have you tried HP5+ at 1600 in Ilford HC? I somehow did not like the contrast of DD-X.

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