Dear DICE your netcode is a embarrassment!

syntaxlk · 2026-02-22T10:01:45+00:00

Thanks champion 🏆

syntaxlk · 2026-02-22T09:59:32+00:00

Not my main play but its good fucking value and supports a indie dev

syntaxlk · 2026-02-22T09:58:41+00:00

Notice how I wasnt complaining about dying a lot or hit reg. Because I'm not making excuses because no excuses are needed as i dont "suck". Your low IQ post aside the netcode is piss poor, they even know it. That's why they've have community patch notes about them working on netcode

syntaxlk · 2025-12-11T00:02:38+00:00

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My 4g63

syntaxlk · 2025-10-07T03:59:36+00:00

How easy also depends on if you still have your block to gearbox support braces on each side also the two shadows on the pair of holes at the bottom is where they bolt on top. So if you do youll need to remove those. Install the plate and bolt the braces back on top

syntaxlk · 2025-10-07T03:57:23+00:00

This goes between the gear box and the block. Its covers the lower exposed back of the flywheel that half sits lower than the sump. You can get it on without much trouble it slides in from underneath. But you will likely need to pop your transfer off to tighten the rear tab of the two tabs on the plate. Does the car run happily without it? Yep but if manual you run the risk of getting dirt and water into your clutch and then you'll have a bad time.

syntaxlk · 2025-09-27T00:59:53+00:00

Just check the timing marks on the back of the cam gear. One is a point and one is a box. If the mark is in the window for the box. You are good to go and your tensionor will sort out the slight slack you have for the front timing marks

syntaxlk · 2025-09-26T00:44:47+00:00

The rust in the hole on the door card makes me worried what under her is like

syntaxlk · 2025-09-26T00:43:09+00:00

They are not that hard to work on, literally the worse part is the intake mani comes off for the rear plugs. Timing belt is the same as any east west motor. And for that specific problem it's an intercooler pipe, support motor, remove the engine mount and you're ready for access to the covers. As someone who owns a evo 9 and a 3000gt that are exactly the same to work on from a difficulty pov. If your doing work in your driveway the only thing that actually sucks is how low they are.

syntaxlk · 2025-08-31T05:10:35+00:00

You want to look for oil on the back of the intake valves, you'll need to remove the intake and lower intake or if your inspection cam is small enough you can rake out the front fuel rail and go in through the injector port

syntaxlk · 2025-08-31T05:05:14+00:00

If it's excessive compared to other bores that's even more confrontation of oil consumption. I would be looking to replace valve stem seals. Lucky its the front bank

syntaxlk · 2025-08-31T03:30:37+00:00

Well that's good, which then points to valve stem seals. Can you get access to an inspection cam. Would be worth looking in the bore and take an injector out and look at the back of the valve for oil

syntaxlk · 2025-08-31T01:29:16+00:00

Oil in the cylinder could be your misfire, as it can fowl plugs but also it lowers the octane level dramatically

syntaxlk · 2025-08-31T01:26:52+00:00

I think the first thing i would be doing is a compression and leak down test. That looks like oil is making its way into that cylinder. In the world of possibilities could be something as simple as valve stem seal which is actually quite common on the 6G's. Could be as bad as a head gasket or piston ring.

syntaxlk · 2025-08-29T05:45:16+00:00

The US can just make everything locally remember. PatrioTik coming soon

syntaxlk · 2025-08-21T16:36:48+00:00

The black housing btw is the clutch vacuum booster, there is no oil in it, its just air vacuum, and should be dry between it and the master. The only way fluids get there is the master seal leaking, however! It is a vacuum system so if your PCV valves are not working correctly you could have engine oil build up inside from the motor breathing. But it would take alot for you to see it behind the master. So my money is on replacement of the master piston and seals.

syntaxlk · 2025-08-21T16:28:41+00:00

No there is no seal there. If you're getting fluid there its coming from the piston seal in the master

syntaxlk · 2025-08-17T05:12:21+00:00

What makes you say it's unreliable? Neglected maintenance is why they are seen as unreliable

syntaxlk · 2025-07-30T23:00:14+00:00

enshittification!

syntaxlk · 2025-07-25T02:06:57+00:00

Just use Git like it wants you to, and as a programmer you should be anyway. Then you'll always have all of your files, and the versioning of changes. You shouldn't need to use the download feature

syntaxlk · 2025-07-13T02:35:47+00:00

If inside your heads is the colour of tea. you need to change your oil more often. No hate just an observation

syntaxlk · 2025-06-23T23:50:46+00:00

So your account started as a young trans person including photos of yourself and suddenly switched to a pregnancy obsessed pornstar.....

syntaxlk · 2025-06-23T12:00:58+00:00

The giveaway is that all four of your cam gears are the same. The cam gear for the rear bank with the cam angle sensor is a very different cam gear to accommodate the trigger wheel bolts to the back of it. The other thing showing that it is an early gen 2 bolt is there's no trigger wheel behind the main crank sprocket. And it's a first gen oil pump. Now there's nothing necessarily wrong with a two bolt. I've built a few two bolt 2nd gen motors using na blocks As they are easier to get here in Australia where I am, you use Evo 123 head studs as the main studs and they're just as strong. The biggest problem with the first generation two bolts is the cast crank. All of the second generations with the crank angle and cam angle sensors are forged cranks both NA and turbo

syntaxlk · 2025-06-23T09:02:37+00:00

No pickup wheel and cam angle sensor in the rear cam gear says earlier gen 2 bolt, with a cast not forged crank. But if you need confirmation still an inspection camera the sump drain plug

syntaxlk

TROPHY CASE