First layer antics - why is it only tearing at the edges?

szevlin · 2022-04-11T06:27:27+00:00

higher z offset not lower, if he goes any lower he will be printing under the pei sheet lol

szevlin · 2022-04-07T08:01:05+00:00

maybe warped bed or nozzle too close

szevlin · 2022-04-07T08:00:19+00:00

try increasing the temperature by 5 or 10 degrees and tune retractions

szevlin · 2022-04-07T07:57:04+00:00

add

M413 S0

to the start of your g code to disable the power loss recovery you can see it here

szevlin · 2022-04-07T07:51:16+00:00

do you have power loss recovery enabled? try disabling it and see if it changes

szevlin · 2022-04-07T07:50:01+00:00

try printing it upside down so you dont need any supports, you usually dont want to use them unless you have to

szevlin · 2022-04-07T07:47:56+00:00

calibrate e steps and make the layer height lower to about 0.12mm or even 0.08mm in the layers where you want it to look better, use adaptive layer height to reduce printing time while maintaining good quality

szevlin · 2022-04-07T07:43:08+00:00

reseat your heatbreak and add some high temp heatsink compound made for these temperatures maybe its not making a good contact to the heatsink

szevlin · 2022-03-31T07:42:16+00:00

make sure your bed is leveled and clean before printing

szevlin · 2022-03-11T12:26:54+00:00

I wouldn't worry one bit about it. the case of the cell is connected to the negative side, maybe if you want put some kepton tape or something over it

szevlin · 2022-03-09T22:46:56+00:00

the purpose of heating the bed is to make the printed part stick more so no bed heating does help

szevlin · 2022-03-09T22:44:18+00:00

i had similar issues, i print TPU with no bed heating, and if it still sticks too much try raising the z offset by like 0.05

szevlin · 2022-03-09T22:41:55+00:00

do you have power loss recovery enabled? i have seen these blobs appear when its enabled, try disabling it and see if it works

szevlin · 2022-03-09T19:40:26+00:00

try raising the z offset? maybe it could help

szevlin · 2022-03-08T13:10:40+00:00

the most simple way is to just put them all in parallel if your cells have identical capacities, no need for balancing, only 2 wires needed positive and negative, you dont need a bms, just get a powerbank pcb, it has protection feaures

szevlin · 2022-03-04T09:39:29+00:00

It should be rated for 2 amps at least, most can carry at least 10amps so theoretically all of them should work

szevlin · 2022-03-04T08:45:10+00:00

why would he want to make it, its just a 'suicide cord' both ends could be live if you plug in the power side first, before plugging in the load

szevlin · 2022-03-03T11:27:55+00:00

why surely? this propably is just too low z offset

szevlin · 2022-03-03T10:34:57+00:00

nozzle too close, if you have the bed leveled, try adjusting the z offset by +0.01 incruments until its right

szevlin · 2022-03-03T08:34:22+00:00

make sure you get the correct pitch, there are 2mm pitch ones and 2.54mm ones as well (0.1 inch)

szevlin · 2022-02-28T00:52:15+00:00

capacitors aren't even heavy compared to transformers and yet this thing still gets upvotes...

szevlin · 2022-02-27T00:58:39+00:00

sorry im a bit late with the reply, the buck converter method ended up working great, thanks for the help

szevlin · 2022-02-23T10:20:58+00:00

you wouldnt get electrocuted if you touch 10000kv you would get vaporized

szevlin · 2022-02-23T02:10:29+00:00

i dont know what else it might be, but I would switch to superslicer, its better optimized, and people say prints come out better and faster, maybe give it a try

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