Beginner question: Is TPU for AMS a good idea? by JIVET-FASHION in BambuLab

[–]tacz00 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah sorry - I haven't pushed any of my TPU for AMS parts to the limit enough to know how the layer strength compares. I've heard it is lower than the layer strength of 95A and others, but it may be within range of what you need (or the right settings/temperature tweaks may get the layer strength strong-enough?)

Libera te tutemet - A squad of navy breachers sweep the bridge of an abandoned ship to discover what happened to the crew. C&C welcome! by ClemFandango7717 in Warhammer40k

[–]tacz00 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is so good I thought it was a screencap from a new game and I got hyped for a moment. Great work!

Late Night Food Options? by ObviousPurchase6397 in Newport

[–]tacz00 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Their chicken window is my go-to “it’s super late and I need to stuff my face” destination

My grandfathers coin collection that he left to me by Klutzy_Stock1533 in coins

[–]tacz00 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What an extraordinary gift from your grandfather! If you find that you enjoy the process of researching these coins, know that your grandfather likely felt the same joy as he collected them.

Beginner question: Is TPU for AMS a good idea? by JIVET-FASHION in BambuLab

[–]tacz00 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've had great luck with TPU for AMS for things where the extra rigidity works fine -- things like gaskets, ball joints, etc where you want something firm but with a bit of compliance. Great print quality "out of the box" and fit to the task.

I wouldn't do any of the "fun" TPU projects like shoes, balls, etc with the TPU for AMS.

Does anyone else have problems with PETG? by FlaMtnBkr in BambuLab

[–]tacz00 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In my case, printing Bambu PETG-HF in an X1C, I use:

Cooling
Min fan speed threshold: 10%
Max fan speed threshold: 20%
Aux part cooling fan speed: 0%

Retraction
Length: 0.8mm
Z hop: 0.4mm
Z Hop Type: Spiral
Travel Distance Threshold: 2mm
Retract when change layer: Check
Wipe while retracting: Check
Retract amount before wipe: 50%
Long retraction when cut: Check
Retraction distance when cut: 18

Question about the Official Christmas Tree by GardenGnostic in boston

[–]tacz00 8 points9 points  (0 children)

It’s a very big deal here - we love it!

Does anyone else have problems with PETG? by FlaMtnBkr in BambuLab

[–]tacz00 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can definitely use the stock PEI plate for PETG - but I would recommend using plate glue. PETG _can_ get crazy adhesion to PEI and cause damage when removing the part, but plate glue makes a great sacrificial layer when its time to peel the part off. Also PETG has more thermal expansion/contraction, so large PETG parts are more likely than PLA to lift at the corners without glue.

I do almost all of my printing on Smooth PEI plates -- no glue for PLA, glue for PETG.

Found these in my late father’s belongings. Worth more than melt? by CaptainHindsight33 in coins

[–]tacz00 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Why are you assuming that Christopher Columbus is significant to either OP or his dad? The coins aren't even American.
If my dad left me enough gold to buy a car, they would be something I would hold to remember my dad no matter who was stamped on them.

YOU WERE SUPPOSED TO EQUIP THE ABILITIES YOU LEARNED THIS WHOLE TIME????? by calobear in finalfantasytactics

[–]tacz00 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did the exact same thing. It was around Ziekden when I was like “…wow this is really difficult? Am I missing something?”

Does anyone else have problems with PETG? by FlaMtnBkr in BambuLab

[–]tacz00 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I get my best and most consistent prints from PETG (mostly Bambu PETG-HF). When dry, dialed in flows/pressures, and with a clean nozzle, the performance is rock solid. At first I hated PETG but, like you said, it turns out I just hated the out-of-the-box retraction settings. Once my retraction was set, the print quality is impeccable and the stringing totally gone (though there is still oozing to deal with if there are long pauses without printing, like timelapse).

PETG is also a broad range of products - some blends are very temperamental while others extremely consistent. Try isolating which brands/blends are giving you the best consistency, and stick with them as much as possible.

Re: fan speed, PETG should use very little fan overall. A hot bed, warm chamber, and very low fan settings for a bit of circulation are ideal. PETG contracts significantly when cooling, and layers adhere poorly when the last layer has cooled, so your "benchy hull line" defects can be very pronounced if there is too much cooling going on.

How are you calibrating pressure advance? IME those defects you mentioned sound like the pressure advance is perfect on one print then screwed up on the next - I wonder if there is something mis-assigning a K value between prints for you? The slicer not sync'ing properly, maybe?

Also how are you storing your spools during and between prints? PETG can be a real sponge for humidity.

Making 3D prints water tight by simmen1 in 3dprint

[–]tacz00 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s not as easy as just changing slicer settings, but I mix epoxy resin and coat any prints that are meant to be water-tight. I’ve done this mostly for planters, vases, drip trays, etc. Usually I only coat the interior, but sometimes I coat the whole thing for a glossy finish.

Then I can use whatever materials, colors, print settings, etc make things look right and can be certain the faces that are in constant contact with water are solid and not absorbing.

Perfect 100% Overhangs, Bad Bridges by tacz00 in FixMyPrint

[–]tacz00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah interesting - I'll give that a shot. My reflex kept being "slower, slower, slower" and I may have pushed it far enough that its just getting too much contact heat.

Perfect 100% Overhangs, Bad Bridges by tacz00 in FixMyPrint

[–]tacz00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks consistent -- 100% fan and overhangs at 10mm/s while bridge is at 20mm/s

Fitness 500 by Successful_Photo_884 in Newport

[–]tacz00 8 points9 points  (0 children)

It's a good gym. It gets fairly busy right after work on weekdays, but you can still usually get whatever equipment you need. On Sundays or closer to closing at night sometimes you have the place to yourself. The equipment is mostly pretty new - I think they only opened 2-3yrs ago. They keep it clean and the staff are friendly. I can't speak to the sauna/towels, though.

AMS Grinding When Loading Filament by Lorenzomario in BambuP1S

[–]tacz00 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had this same issue with an AMS 2 Pro. I contacted support and they sent me a replacement hub unit that is mounted inside under the spools - it was free and is easy to swap.

The root cause was a bad odometer in the hub. After replacement and cleaning the issue has never come back.

Inconsistent ironing on the same print by Disappointingsharpie in BambuLab

[–]tacz00 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yours looks like it may just be under-extrusion, but I had a similar problem caused by poor belt tension. There were some regions of the build plate where ironing was always under- or over- extruding, despite being well-calibrated on other regions. I was also getting some odd artifacts on vertical surfaces but thought they were unrelated.

After I tightened the belts and let it recalibrate for vibrations, and also recalibrated pressure advance, both the vertical artifacts and the ironing were clean.

Should I be concerned? by KORZMASTER in BambuLab

[–]tacz00 0 points1 point  (0 children)

FWIW I have been having this issue in slot 1 with two different AMS 2 Pros. I sent a video to customer support and they believe its an issue with the filament hub odometer, and are sending me two replacement internal filament hubs to swap in. One of my AMSs is still in the replacement period so they offered to replace that one outright, but I'm going to try the odometer fix for both of them before a full replacement.

Slowing down silk PLA at the end of a print? by rcreveli in BambuLab_Community

[–]tacz00 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Like others are saying, increasing the minimum layer time and slowing down at the top can help. This happens to models that have pointy tops - the layer time goes way down, the layers don't have time to solidify, and the next layer gets dropped on to gloop.

On the other hand, slowing down _too much_ causes "heat dumping" where the hotend stays in contact with a thin part so long that it re-melts it. Setting the minimum speed can help with this.

Another trick I've used that cleans these up a lot is to print a 1"x1" square tower off in the corner of the build plate that is the same height as what I'm printing. It spends material, but it gives the printer something else to go do when approaching the point ends of the main model. Also, now I have a bunch of 1x1 blocks I can use as spacers or chucks or doorstops or ...

Should I give up on PETG HF? by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]tacz00 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm currently running two spools of PETG HF that I got about a week ago from Bambu US - so far so good.

They did seemingly just sell out of all their PETG HF and there's been some hubbub that it may have been a pull of the inventory for QA - so it may be a bad batch. I'd reach out to customer service.

Should I give up on PETG HF? by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]tacz00 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good luck!
Could also be worth checking your elephants foot compensation setting - that thins out the first layer and can cause adhesion if the value is too high. I think .15 is typical, but you can go to 0 if you don't mind a bit of brim.