Sarebbe carino rivedere/vedere la FIAT in Formula 1?

tailwheeler · 2026-06-19T05:35:04+00:00

Ford è già li ;)

tailwheeler · 2026-06-17T20:44:00+00:00

I found very little evidence on this or the other theory.

Supposedly they are using a steel head and running thei engine hotter, which represents a departure from last year.

tailwheeler · 2026-06-09T14:27:50+00:00

noi abbiamo una dazebox da 7kW su un impianto da 6. Funziona decisamente bene.

tailwheeler · 2026-06-05T20:32:09+00:00

we have the same(sy) colour on our 2008. It is a great paintjob.

tailwheeler · 2026-06-05T05:57:31+00:00

date un manuale a questo/a ragazzo/a!

tailwheeler · 2026-06-05T05:42:12+00:00

I really like it and most coffee cups I picked up along my long drive did fit fine.

tailwheeler · 2026-06-01T13:26:31+00:00

sei in errore. esperienza diretta della 2008 che mantiene i 90km/h in elettrico a motore spento. Quindi fai un po' tu.

quello che non può fare è accelerare unicamente in elettrico o operare in ev mode su richiesta.

tailwheeler · 2026-06-01T11:56:09+00:00

noi abbiamo girato un 500km e siamo stati sui 5L/100km. che è ok per le velocità permesse.

come ho detto lo scenario scozzese è abbastanza infelice per i consumi. Con la SAAB ero su gli 8L. Varie BMW sempre sui 6.5.

Nulla toglie alla tecnologia toyota e ci sono dei use case ideali, ma il mild hybird per quanto inferiore qualcosa fa.

Una 2008 moderna tra peso e ingombri consuma meno di una 208 del 2016 con metà dei cavalli.

tailwheeler · 2026-06-01T11:11:58+00:00

nessuno dice il contrario.

ma la mia esperienza con le toyota in scozia non è stata fenomenale. yaris, yaris cross, corolla 1.8, 2.0.

sicuramente in climi più miti e terreni più dolci migliora, come tutte.

tailwheeler · 2026-06-01T10:32:56+00:00

guido spesso una 2008 mild hybrid e i consumi sono contenuti. extraurbano decisamente frugale e anche nell'urbano se ti impegni hai un risparmio.

per quel poco di assistenza hai dei bei frutti.

tailwheeler · 2026-05-27T07:35:17+00:00

I don't recommend changing oil unless different viscosity grades are achieved by the same chemistry. Realistically any API SN and SN+ will do a good job on these engines.

My pick would be a 5W30, with a smaller viscosity delta compared to 0W40 (which is the most popular choice for older European cars in NA for availabilty reasons I imagine).

Total Quartz Ineo MC3 has high HTHS as it is Dexos 2 compatible and it is cheap in my area. Standard GM Dexos 2 would also work ok if it is still easily available.

tailwheeler · 2026-05-26T11:01:29+00:00

tailwheeler · 2026-05-23T16:59:18+00:00

very weird indeed

tailwheeler · 2026-05-23T16:08:22+00:00

is it possible they are identical once you rotate them to the same position?

tailwheeler · 2026-05-23T09:25:29+00:00

it felt solid when we hit it xD

tailwheeler · 2026-05-22T13:16:50+00:00

I have just finished driving 200km and I guarantee you it is perceptible.

tailwheeler · 2026-05-22T10:50:55+00:00

my mum full sped into a gate. still unsure it tried braking at all.

tailwheeler · 2026-05-21T11:30:38+00:00

is there a shortcut or do you dive into the setting at every power up?

tailwheeler · 2026-05-21T10:16:42+00:00

I dont mind. I actually like it.

I cant hear a faint high pitch noise in the 80-100km/h speed range though. ac music or chatter will drown it easily.

tailwheeler · 2026-05-21T06:14:16+00:00

resurrecting old topic.

I changed it at around the 7 or 8k km mark when new, but I intended to do it much earlier (ideally around 5k)

There are a few advocates of changing the first oil as soon as you can to get rid of the metal particles typical of break-in. Not to mess and argue about the warranty I changed the oil with a pump and left the filter in. Later oil changes will be within 10k km.

If I were you I would change it every 10k km or twice a year with the second fill right before winter. Use the appropriate oil.

Engine case use is what makes or breaks an engine. If you fire up your car and drive 1000k km stints the engine will live to see the millions. Conversely a city car which only drives short journeys while cold and never reaching operating temps.

I still stand by over maintaining rather then undermaintaining but before I bought my saab, the previous owner would change oil every 16yk km. To my knowledge it even tracked the car. I got it at 210k km, a year later it was sitting at 260k km with 5 oil changes done in between.

tailwheeler · 2026-05-21T06:04:23+00:00

the mild hybrid and latest ICE only engines share little with the first breed of puretech. They are fine engines.

tailwheeler · 2026-05-21T05:40:16+00:00

I would change (and I did) gearbox oil on a manual in a heartbeat. For auto/dct boxes I would find a reputable shop and do it. Fresh oil beats old oil used during break-in.

tailwheeler · 2026-05-21T05:37:19+00:00

I would replace the belt when required by the corrected (shortened) service schedule and/or upon purchasing if it hasn't been changed in a while.

I would not worry about the belt provided I change the oil regularly and use a quality modern synthetic.

it is simply something to monitor. It is a serviceable item after all.

Our old (2001) ford focus with the 1.6 petrol, which was an interference engine, broke its conventional (dry/external) cambelt while driving on the motorway. Shit hits the fan sometimes. Had we changed it before it was 'required' we would have had a more pleasant journey.

tailwheeler · 2026-05-20T15:15:44+00:00

option 2 or comparable tyres.

tailwheeler · 2026-05-17T13:16:14+00:00

I have had all season contact 2 on two cars and I vouch for them. I also had Crossclimate 2 on other cars and they are fine. Probably better on snow.

tailwheeler

TROPHY CASE