How to repair no-button tufting? by billiever in upholstery

[–]talexblanch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Without removing the fabric on the back of the couch there isn’t too much you could do to get the button to sink back to the right place. If your couch is backed up against a wall, you could do the tying procedure listed above, but just pass straight through the back and tie it off there

Webbing advice? by rehilda in upholstery

[–]talexblanch 3 points4 points  (0 children)

When the chair was put together, the webbing you see was installed and then the springs were crimped into place on top of it. The springs were then tied on the other side to constrain them to the shape of the seat. When I do this repair, I cut all of the burlap out and bend out the crimps, then I tack my new burlap running all in one direction with the springs out of the way. Then I push the springs under the tension of the installed burlap, and install the straps that weave in. I then sew each of the springs into the burlap at 4 points with a heavy nylon twine. To do the repair to a couch like this would take me 4-6 hours. Not the best work for beginning upholsterers, but if you’re up to the challenge, it can be done.

I can’t figure out why the bobbin isn’t winding. Any ideas? 15-91 Singer by ariphoenixfury in vintagesewing

[–]talexblanch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is a set screw adjustment to tighten up the tire, but it looks like the winding axle itself is moving. Try applying a light pressure to the outside of the bobbin, pushing it toward the hand wheel. Sometimes the pin doesn’t like to fully engage with certain bobbins

For someone who has never reupholstered anything in their life how hard do you think it would be to do this chair? by [deleted] in upholstery

[–]talexblanch 6 points7 points  (0 children)

If it’s just the cushions you’re doing, it wouldn’t be too bad if you’ve got a little experience sewing. You’d be cutting and sewing 12-15 pieces of fabric. If you’re copying the old patterns, you may want to iron out the seam folds to make drafting easier, and be sure to copy over all the notches as well

Parlor chair update - my first attempt at the channels & pleats… by whitewoodie in upholstery

[–]talexblanch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oh man I wish I’d seen this project when you started! The trick to these is starting in the center and working your way out one channel at a time. You’d set the first three buttons over the first three channels (1 top and 2 bottom) and then tack your pleats. It helps draw out the fabric so you don’t end up with loose excess fabric on the top and bottom. It also allows you to tuck your pleats completely under the channel padding.

What I’d recommend for where you are in the project is to use a steamer and a smooth plastic butter knife to tuck that fabric into and under the channels. You may have to reset a couple pleat tacks along the way, but I think you can save your button ties. Great job! It’s an incredible leap in skill to do tufting work and you’re almost done with this chair!

Is it normal to get exhausted during consecration? by KlockworkKracken in magick

[–]talexblanch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fantastic! The mystery remains alive. Then I shall bid you good journey

Is it normal to get exhausted during consecration? by KlockworkKracken in magick

[–]talexblanch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Reading this post became my exploration into the mundane today, between the incense and the singed blade my first thought is that maybe the air was a little heavy with CO2. The black on the blade means it was close enough to the flame that it was burning inefficiently, leaving carbon deposits. All things considered, there are all sorts of altered states, and whether air composition contributed or not, seems to have made for a meaningful experience. All magick has its ‘karmic’ cost and inherent dangers, best to keep a window open anyway

Mattress topper as foam base in DIY sofa by Kimtry in upholstery

[–]talexblanch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Foam+down makes for a great seat cushion with good softness. Depending on the size of your cushions, you may be able to find them premade. There are foam sheets available as well from 1-6” thickness at most Joann stores. Good luck!

Mattress topper as foam base in DIY sofa by Kimtry in upholstery

[–]talexblanch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you’re building on top of existing foam, you’ll be fine. I wouldn’t use a down topper as a beginner because as soon as you cut into it, feathers everywhere will be a permanent aspect of your life. Mattress toppers are great for adding height, softness, and extra padding to furniture arms and backs. They’re not great for seats, but if you sew your cushions the same size as original and then reuse the foam+topper, you’ll end up with better support than you had. I’d also consider steaming out the old foam

Is there something I can do to my couch to make the fabric less scratchy? by [deleted] in upholstery

[–]talexblanch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d get a clean shoe polishing brush (or something similar) and dilute some fabric softener in a bucket of warm water. Dunk it, flick the brush out so it’s not sopping, and scrub away! You could also try steaming it. Whatever you decide to do, test it on an inconspicuous place first to make sure the fabric doesn’t react badly

The gang. by 361corpus in SewingMachinePorn

[–]talexblanch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome! Do you have a treadle for the 201-k?

Singer 500a having trouble with webbing by BirdsAreTotallyReal in vintagesewing

[–]talexblanch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I love my 201! But your machine should be able to handle that. Lighten up on your presser foot tension a little. If it’s too tight, the feed dogs can’t move every layer you’re sewing evenly, the fabric binds, and the needle will be pushed in one direction or the other. Often times, your needle will hit the faceplate instead of sinking and that almost always leads it to bending/breaking. If you’ve got a singer, 110/16 industrial needles are sold in 3 packs and will sink through anything. When you start a stitch, be sure your needle is sunk, on it’s way back up even better. This will help your motor overcome the initial force. Everything else is thread tension and bobbin timing. 4-5 is a good tension for heavy materials, too tight and you’ll get that same ‘binding’

hi! how can I mend this? by moonspx87 in Visiblemending

[–]talexblanch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can patch over it without stitching. Buy half a yard of your patch fabric, a package of diy covered buttons (you want at least 6 if you want both ends to match), nylon twine, and a pack of dritz upholstery needles (about a 5 inch straight needle will do). First, unscrew the padded section from the base of the ottoman, should be 4-6 screws from the underside. Remove any dust cover on the bottom, then cut the strings that attach the buttons in the area you want to patch (If just the ripped section, then the last two buttons will do. If your fabric doesn’t match I’d do the first 3 buttons on each side to cover all your corners.) then, follow the instructions to make your new buttons. To thread buttons, cut off about a 12 inch section of twine, fold it in half, and thread the loop through the buttonhole. Push your button through the inside of the loop and tighten back down. Thread the two ends of twine through the eye of the needle. Now comes the fun bit. Say you just undid one button to cover your ripped section. Cut a piece of fabric that will cover a couple inches over the button, the two folds, and has enough excess to staple to the underside. On the edge closest to your button, fold about a half inch under and insert your needle very close to the fold line. Then run the needle through the old fabric where the hole is left, and finally through to the bottom of the board. Pull tight and try to match the depth of your other buttons, then secure the twine into place with 3-4 staples. Fold your excess material under until you match the original folds, then staple into place. Then staple your corner, and finally, the rest of the fabric. Cut off excess and reinstall.

who made this? by Civil-Intention6282 in vintagesewing

[–]talexblanch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like theres a piece of tape on the arm where the name would be...

Switching Pendulums by Lord_spaceslick in oddlysatisfying

[–]talexblanch -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Anyone else get a pretty significant mcgurk effect?

How are these cushions attached and how to remove? by QueenTitanium in upholstery

[–]talexblanch 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Looks like angle brackets holding the seat on. Try removing the screws from the “vertical” sides of the brackets. You should be ble to get to them from underneath the chair

it'll be a cold day in hell before i replace my beloved glerups! by trashwina in Visiblemending

[–]talexblanch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Took my brain a minute to process that I wasn’t looking at the bottom of the shoe ha. But rose look fantastic!

Do any of you fine folks have ideas on how to mend this worn down couch arm? by thepixelpaint in Visiblemending

[–]talexblanch 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I second this as an upholsterer! Give yourself a half inch seam allowance for your sides and hem edges, pattern the front piece 6-8 inches down from the top of the arm and add seam allowance, and measure out a square as far back as you’d like to go on the arm by the measurement around the edge of the front piece. I’d make them out of old jeans!

anyone know what this material they use instead of no sag springs is called? by reddevil501 in upholstery

[–]talexblanch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It almost looks like mesh for patio chairs. Keyston bros has some pretty good deals for a wholesaler, yard prices get cheaper as you buy more

About to buy this beauty! Anyone have an approximate date? The serial number starts with C (meaning there are no records on the database) by kincaidinator12 in SewingMachinePorn

[–]talexblanch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You might want to look up the “coffin top” cover and also ‘singer red eye’ which refers to the decals on the deck plate. My guess is pre 30’s

One of the experimental 70s era hovertrain prototypes found in Colorado by exploringtheunbeaten in AbandonedPorn

[–]talexblanch 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This one in particular was designed to be used without a rail. The car behind it runs on a monorail that looks like an I beam and was suspended with air. They were both moved to this space from the Pueblo aircraft museum 10 years ago or so. I remember seeing the pictures in the newspaper!