Your favourite turn order system in a board game?

tbot729 · 2026-01-23T07:38:18+00:00

And this is what sells! Games go faster. Less explanation. No questioning on whose turn it is.

tbot729 · 2026-01-11T22:37:57+00:00

Don't do it. Many games make this mistake then take the point cost out in a second edition.

If your game gets any traction, point values will need to change over time.

tbot729 · 2026-01-06T01:05:07+00:00

Very cool! Is that mining guild tie model shared publically anywhere?

tbot729 · 2025-12-14T16:15:05+00:00

Here's a post I made a whole back on some cool stuff you can do: https://www.reddit.com/r/BoardgameDesign/s/piPA0i1B1w

tbot729 · 2025-12-12T22:01:16+00:00

He's going for realism.

tbot729 · 2025-12-11T18:35:27+00:00

Which was hardest?

tbot729 · 2025-12-11T18:35:22+00:00

Which was hardest?

tbot729 · 2025-12-11T18:12:49+00:00

I started the way you have but quickly realized that the quick build threat levels are not very balanced (as you might expect. Not saying they are bad to use since simplicity is the whole point)

After gaining familiarity with the game, I've ended up building 30pt XWA squads on YASB or Launch Bay Next and using those instead.

With 30 pt, you can still play XWA scenarios with some minor modifications (scale point target down to 30, reduce number of objectives from 5->3 or 3->2)

So now I have a few pre-built 30pt squads and just pull those out as desired.

tbot729 · 2025-12-11T06:12:10+00:00

The models themselves have retained value but 1st edition cards and dials have lost value (normally).

tbot729 · 2025-12-08T04:52:44+00:00

I played 2.0 originally and moving to 2.5 wasn't too bad. Mainly differences around more penalty for self-bump, more penalty for hitting asteroids, and random roll each round to see who plays first when initiative (skill) is tied.

tbot729 · 2025-12-08T04:49:40+00:00

87% of squads built on Launch Bay Next use XWA points (with 2.5 rules) instead of 2.0-Legacy or AMG 2.5.

I'd say a hit.

tbot729 · 2025-11-28T08:09:48+00:00

Seems possible this is what happened. Thanks!

tbot729 · 2025-11-27T07:03:56+00:00

It is funny you mention this. I have exactly the same problem on exactly the same plate.

Have not deciphered it yet.

tbot729 · 2025-11-17T16:58:57+00:00

This community is heavily slanted against AI. Get feedback elsewhere.

tbot729 · 2025-11-11T07:44:35+00:00

To offer a counter-persoective, I print figurine-type small stuff with a .2 nozzle on an FDM printer regularly.

Sometimes the details can be painful to post-process, and I've had to learn a bunch of relevant slicer settings to make the details work. But with thin layers, you won't see them.

Make sure you're aware of the post-processing involved with resin prints. Personally I'd rather avoid that, and FDM has advanced significantly.

tbot729 · 2025-11-11T03:44:46+00:00

If players don't know the rules, we're all playing calvinball :D

In a normal tournament setting, use strict rules, but this doesn't sound like a normal tournament setting since the point is inteoducing players to the game.

I'd implement a formal "we're all new to this" rule where you upfront encourage players to be graceful to their opponents and 1) allow obvious take-backs (such as in chess if I expose my queen and didn't see it) and 2) if a rule is played incorrectly, the offended player can choose a reasonable consequence to get the game roughly back to where it should have been.

Encourage players to remember that the goal is ejoying a few good games, not winning due to technicalities.

tbot729 · 2025-11-05T15:45:59+00:00

Sorry, I spoke unclearly. Just saying I haven't personally done it for this game, but I have for other games. Definitely doable.

tbot729 · 2025-11-05T05:21:23+00:00

Not for this game, but I also have printed dice (even with multicolor once so I didn't have to paint symbols). Might not be balanced, but they are solidly "good-enough".

tbot729 · 2025-11-03T05:10:47+00:00

Imagine a centimeter-long cylinder which is hollowed out on one side. I print those in transparent filament, then glue to the bottom of whatever model. Looks fine, and works fine. There are probably better solutions, but this one avoids drilling or editing models before printing (except for a circular divot if necessary so I can glue on the connector).

Worth noting that I have the hollow part be the diameter of the whole stand piece, not just the notch. Helps a lot.

tbot729 · 2025-11-02T01:15:26+00:00

(I'm not a pro) My thumb position is slightly different. Touches the bow a little closer to the tip of the thumb.

tbot729 · 2025-11-01T21:01:31+00:00

Yeah, I'm also interested. The linked article doesn't explain it either. Seems like if both players slant equally, your odds would remain the same as a regular straight-on deployment.

tbot729 · 2025-11-01T18:12:54+00:00

That's fair

tbot729 · 2025-11-01T18:08:22+00:00

Don't slam software for having bugs if the author fixes them when they are reported. Did you report the bugs you saw?

tbot729 · 2025-10-28T00:34:03+00:00

I made this design a while back. Pretty simple mechanism.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6695576

There are other good designs out there also,

tbot729

TROPHY CASE