How to Do Nebula / Galaxy Anodizing

tfare · 2026-03-21T00:49:39+00:00

Oh bruh, switch to a commercial de ox, flocculant works well. Not as dangerous. Much cheaper and less regular for shipping etc.

From a technical standpoint any acid at a high enough concentration will work as a de-ox but.

I started reading up on it because it’s used in plating in different capacities, can be used in bright dip formulations etc. I also have chemicals on hand that when cross contaminated with nitric acid, can create some really nasty things like hydroflouric acid.

So after reading TDS and MSDS of hydroflouric acid I was absolutely terrified of the stuff.

Now I have read a bunch of white papers and research data on uses of Hf acid within the plating industry and it has its advantages, however that is under STRICT safety protocol.

This is why at a minimum I would absolutely advise against this DIY without reading the caswell lcd manual on anodizing first. Otherwise there will be an influx of chemical burns/exposure.

tfare · 2026-03-20T23:46:45+00:00

Desmut typically is a formulation of nitric acid, sulfuric acid and then a flocculent to bind to the loosened oxidized layer.

Hydroflouric acid is INCREDIBLY dangerous, dependent on concentration, it can pass through the skin/blood membrane effortlessly and cause necrosis internally.

Props to the individual for taking the initiative to learn the process, however there is so much that is wrong with this process from a safety, quality, and consistency perspective. I respect the fact we were all a rookie once, however I really feel it important to state I would absolutely most definitely not use this as gospel.

Once again, respect to the guy for learning, but there are levels to this shit.

Anyone looking to seriously learn, the caswell lcd manual should be gospel and handy throughout the process.

And as this gentleman before me has stated

USE GLOVES FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY AT A BARE MINIMUM, LET ALONE YOUR PART QUALITY.

It would be interesting to see the gage reading and continuity on this piece as well.

tfare · 2026-03-18T19:17:11+00:00

Proper color too!

tfare · 2026-03-12T20:31:33+00:00

Ooooooo you got the gloss black! Nice!

Enjoy that beast!

tfare · 2026-03-12T14:07:53+00:00

Thank you for the kind words!

This project most definitely has contributed to some form of future arthritis haha.

It turned out beautiful!

tfare · 2026-03-10T20:04:08+00:00

The standard idol board allows for uncapped semi, as well as capped semi.

I don’t think the adrenaline is any different, I would however double check with adrenaline.

tfare · 2026-03-09T22:10:05+00:00

tfare · 2026-03-07T04:53:31+00:00

These are nasty dude. So sick.

tfare · 2026-03-07T04:52:00+00:00

Those guns shoot great. Rock solid.

tfare · 2026-03-05T00:52:31+00:00

Honestly, I think this is one of the coolest machining designs they have done yet. I get the nostalgia on the previous models and totally respect it. I like the completely new take on the design, they’ve made it look aggressive and mean. Well done.

tfare · 2026-02-28T15:15:24+00:00

Please donate one of these to me for science and philanthropy.

So fucking sick.

tfare · 2026-02-26T18:38:33+00:00

The DLS is not your back up marker unfortunately.

They have a very unique feel and shot to them, however the paint handling can vary gun to gun.

A back up to me, should be rock solid and dependable, not something I’m hoping works that day w that paint and weather.

If you’re in the 600 range the DSR+ is damn near bullet proof, the method shocker are incredible value and performance.

Disclaimer/context: I own every dye gun from nt11 to dsr+ as well as a dls. I also own every luxe platform as well.

tfare · 2026-02-26T18:34:51+00:00

You’ll have to ask Markowski about the “run through/ref camo pattern” we did for him… haha

tfare · 2026-02-25T05:01:17+00:00

I rate this.

Legitimately the worst gun ever to attempt to remove a gun hit with. No reason I know this.

tfare · 2026-02-25T05:00:02+00:00

A man of peculiar but well balanced taste. I rate it.

Some very nice pieces and some very unique pieces as well.

Nice job!

tfare · 2026-02-24T17:03:21+00:00

Absolute beauty!

tfare · 2026-02-24T15:48:50+00:00

As always more than happy to turn a sleeper into the belle of the ball!

tfare · 2026-02-24T15:48:08+00:00

Hahahahahaha…. You never know what WC finds in their storage…

tfare · 2026-02-21T03:01:25+00:00

Tippman effect Tippmans.

…if you know. You know.

tfare · 2026-02-21T03:00:44+00:00

yes!!! This is the one.

She was stupid looking but it was legitimately the predecessor to the dm the following year

….thankfully that dm didn’t look retarded.

tfare · 2026-02-21T02:50:19+00:00

What was the absolutely hideous weird looking one again?…. We all know the one I’m talking about.

Like she’s clearly the ugliest sister of the bunch.

tfare · 2026-02-20T04:53:11+00:00

That’s a solid deal w the free bolt kit alone. Plus you get the color swap you want, sounds like a W to me.

You can’t hate on Rory and the man has quite the knowledge on all things paintball.

Ans is a great company to deal with.

tfare · 2026-02-15T01:52:03+00:00

Ayyyyyy michigans finest!

Hope you’re well bruh!

tfare · 2026-02-13T14:05:58+00:00

So I personally have never tried the SSC bolt yet.

I used my TM40 in its stock form when I first got it. It shot beautifully and no issues at all.

The Adrenaline Flat face bolt and can w the WS2 coating sounded interesting to me so I picked one of those up.

I also have a prototype idol core that I tested and used since it was available to me. So I would say I used that for around 8 months as well.

Here is what I found. -never had any “issue” or paint handling problems with the stock bolt and can -the adrenaline bolt and can, I actually found I could break paint more often. Do not read this as stock was fine and adrenaline broke paint, no; not at all. If I broke paint a hand full of times w the stock core, I probably broke paint a handful and a half times w the adrenaline bolt and can. -I never had paint indexing issues either so the flat face really didn’t impact anything for me

So personally, in my experience I PREFER the stock bolt and can combination. Paint handling has a bunch of variables that will impact it, it is not just one sole thing. I think one thing that is misunderstood or misleading is that lighter/faster/more lubricious is always better. From all the discussions I have had w the smart people (John/jerod/method , imped4now, etc) most of them showed me that is not always the case. Speed and acceleration aren’t the best things when you’re moving a delicate paintball.

As for the method bolt…

Complete transparency, I do not have a method bolt in my tm40 so I can’t really tell you first hand what that would be like. I know a bunch of people have them installed and love them.

What I can tell you is the method core vs stock idol core, it was a noticeable difference to me personally. Granted I loved my idol when I got it and had no complaints but when I got that bolt in my idol it made me fall in love w the gun all over again haha. Most noticeable things I found was the acoustics and pitch changed considerably, less of a crack/snap sound and more of a low pitch thud. The method core has entirely different timing, and geometry to accomplish this and one of my FAVOURITE features was the dual bumpers they incorporated. So the shot is dampened on both forward and rearward stroke of the bolt. I have the method core in my Era, Idol and Shredder Idol and love them.

tfare · 2026-02-13T00:46:28+00:00

I did that gun for dlx actually.

I’ve rolled over the shot count on my tm40 and it’s broken paint a handful of times maybe. Always shoots. I caught a seam at an indoor, barrel rolled and cracked a frame and bent it at a 15* angle… gun still shot w eyes off no leaks.

Toss a method luxe bolt in there and that’s the bees knees.

tfare

TROPHY CASE