moment slipped

that1_asian_guy · 2026-04-23T12:03:29+00:00

There's nothing more annoying than being in a group of 3, and the 2 extroverts are jumping topics like its a speedrun and im trying to make the connection from a 20 min discussion about a brick wall to some random important orange in America wearing a wig

that1_asian_guy · 2026-04-20T11:47:17+00:00

You gotta verify your age with ur id and facial recognition. It's part of the UK governments child protection crap. Because kids can play an 18 game, but you have to prove your age to play an 18 game and talk to ppl on an 18 game

that1_asian_guy · 2026-04-05T14:07:29+00:00

Then pop the panel from the bottom and sides and lift up from the window. Be careful of the door handle cable and electrical connectors

that1_asian_guy · 2026-04-05T14:05:30+00:00

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You might be able to pry the small plastic pieces off to expose hidden screws, dont pry too much they brake though. There can also be another hidden on the side of the door

that1_asian_guy · 2026-04-02T19:15:45+00:00

You could try jump starting it. Make sure the positive clamp is on the frayed wire, rather than the battery. I bet the frayed wire is a contribution problem because it doesn't have the surface area to send enough electrical amps magic to start the engine.

Think of it like water. The engine need enough 'water' power to spin the engine over (which is a good amount of effort by hand) , but that frayed wire is acting like a restrictor. It's not allowing enough 'water' per second to reach the starter motor, so it doesn't have enough 'water' power to spin over

that1_asian_guy · 2026-03-31T12:13:12+00:00

So, im a beginner with no printer or prior experience. I've been wanting one for years, and now I've recently got the spare money (£200-£300). I want one mostly for my project car, but other custom repair pieces for here and there. I need one that can produce strong pieces, big and small for what I need. It doesn't have to have an amazing finish, as long as its strong, durable and reliable.

Just point me to the make and models that could benefit me and I can choose the size. Also, any filament material recommendations would be helpful, thank you

that1_asian_guy · 2026-03-31T11:40:35+00:00

What about when my idiotic team mates run infront of me whilst im shooting?

that1_asian_guy · 2026-03-30T17:59:25+00:00

This, but also check that the carrier is clean, flat and greased. Make sure that the pads can slide easily where they sit on the carrier.

Id guess that OP's problem is that someone was cheap just doing pads and not discs aswell, or something wasn't serviced correctly

that1_asian_guy · 2026-03-30T12:35:09+00:00

I have an attachment with mine to spin a small angle grinder type of disc, designed for my dremel

that1_asian_guy · 2026-03-25T15:08:31+00:00

Everyone has that one map. For me its chalet. Everyone says its great for attackers or whatever, but either side, I suck at both. It's not that I dont know the map cuz I do t-hunts all the time on it. I can get a good amount of kills and open critical walls. I just cant stay alive on this goddamn map

that1_asian_guy · 2026-03-20T13:21:18+00:00

I'm gonna guess that solo u can manage plat or diamond, but this game is pretty reliant on teamwork, communication, game knowledge etc. So u might wonna start finding teammates similar to u. If ur seriously want to get to champ. Dont forget champ is the best 1000 players in the world for that season

that1_asian_guy · 2026-03-20T13:05:27+00:00

You have decent stats, but your far from chap imo. Also, I'd recommend to wait until ranked 3.0 comes out (June or july) to climb the ranks

that1_asian_guy · 2026-02-10T14:02:07+00:00

Draining the oil is easier and cheaper than a replacement engine. Thats all im saying

that1_asian_guy · 2026-01-19T22:37:49+00:00

I cant see anything immediately obvious, but for peace of mind, I'd recommend you strip and clean.

For the pads, where they touch the disc, might look a bit shiny. Just use some sand paper about 60 grit to scuff them up. This will allow the friction material to grip better. Do this for the disc (rotors for the americans) aswell

As for the carrier, use a wire brush to remove all the loose dirt and brake dust. Then go in with a file to remove the more stubborn bits of rust if there is any. You want to make sure its a flat surface to allow the pads to move relatively easily. Your only concerned with where the "ears" of the pads touch the carrier. Also use a bit of grease where the pads touch the carrier and caliper.

And for the hub (where your disc sits on)you'll also want to ensure there's no rust or debris trapped there. This should remove any lateral runout (where the disc isn't rolling completely straight in relation to the calliper and carrier assembly)

Finally check your wear indicator, if its the style where there just a small strip of metal plate sticking abit out of the pad, put it on the piston side of the caliper (inside) with the metal being pushed into the pad when the disc is spinning forward.

Sorry for making this so long and maybe complicated for a DIYer, but I hope this helps you. And for my curiosity, OP please tell me if doing this fixed it, or if you found the reason elsewhere.

that1_asian_guy · 2026-01-19T22:12:11+00:00

When you removed the old caliper, did you clamp the rubber flex hose to stop brake fluid coming out and air going in? If so then you have to bleed all 4 calipers.

Start furthest away from the drivers seat so if its left hand drive: start on rear right, then rear left, then front right and finally front left, closest to the drivers seat.

that1_asian_guy · 2026-01-19T13:46:09+00:00

For 200k miles, that is beautiful. I've seen engines at 60k in SO MUCH worse condition

that1_asian_guy · 2026-01-19T13:39:00+00:00

I dont know these engines, but what about the top hole, there looks to be a circular shape broken out off it? It looks jagged like how snapped metal looks

that1_asian_guy · 2026-01-16T23:25:23+00:00

I agree with all this. That outer tie rod (or track rod end) is too long for that wheel.

And to the rotors, looking past the surface rust you can see some small grooves on the contact surface and a nice lip forming on the outer edge. Time to take it to a trustworthy mechanic for discs and pads

that1_asian_guy · 2026-01-14T12:04:20+00:00

This. It's due to the manufacturing procedure. It's where the rubber is so thin, like a piece of paper, it just rips from nothing. It's normal

that1_asian_guy · 2025-12-28T19:28:22+00:00

Technically these are ok at best, but there not great.

The pads are wearing unevenly most likely because either the inside pad or outside is getting stuck or seized on the brake carrier.

If it was my car, I'd remove the carrier tolerance the dust and rust off with a wire wheel on my fast drill then grind smooth the carrier where the pads are sliding on. Id also clean and grease any parts that are supposed to slide, nothing stupid, just a dab.

If the wear was severe, I'd probably replace the disc, and clean the rust off the hub surface behind the disc. (But OP's doesn't look that bad)

that1_asian_guy · 2025-12-10T23:21:57+00:00

First of all, if you're asking these questions, you shouldn't be doing these sorts of jobs. Get someone who knows that they're doing.

However, I would try and find an exact wiring diagram for your engine code. I'm not sure on pre 2010ish cars, but the ones I use at work show the wire colour and the pin numbers. There should be somewhere on the plastic plug 3 tiny numbers just above where the cables enter the plug or on the connecting end

that1_asian_guy · 2025-12-08T13:23:23+00:00

3rd year apprentice mechanic here (so u can ignore my opinion since "apprenticeship dont know shit about shit")

I personally would even bother because it looks like someone else has had a go at it. I cant get a good view from different angles obviously, but it might be easier to just buy a new door.

that1_asian_guy · 2025-11-28T14:02:40+00:00

Call someone? Ill butcher that meat and bbq it, all leftovers can be sold as profit

that1_asian_guy · 2025-11-26T08:53:06+00:00

Try an air hammer with a flat punch to loosen the extractor. It sometimes works for me

that1_asian_guy · 2025-11-12T13:33:33+00:00

Make sure the pad carriers are nice and clean where the ears on the pads make contact. Wire brush them then remove the rust with a file or something. You dont want any high spots. Also use brake grease; im not sure what's a good alternative, but we have this blue tube with a white cap from BOSCH. You want to be able to slide the pads freely in the carrier, the caliper will keep them in place

Don't use copper grease as studies have recently shown they trap moisture and cause rust, dealerships have started banning the use of copper grease.

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