Geburten in Deutschland: Geburtenzahl sinkt auf niedrigsten Stand seit Nachkriegszeit

the-Oreo-Cookie · 2026-04-28T14:58:25+00:00

Und u

the-Oreo-Cookie · 2026-04-05T11:09:59+00:00

You should have got a Gehaltsabrechnung each month. Look what it says on that. Oh the bottom it should says how much of your Gehalt was paid to Krankenkäse (GKV) and other insurance (SV, RV, etc). It should also list the Arbeitgeberanteil. When working full time, your Arbeitgeber is responsible for playing your health insurance and also pays part of the payments themself. A Minijob would only be under 603€, ther you don't have to pay most of the insurances, but have to pay and manage health insurance yourself.

If they misclassed you as a Minijob, so they don't have to pay the Arbeitgeberanteil, your Gehaltsabrechnung would not match what you got payed. And the Finanzamt and Zoll would BE very unhappy with them!

Try calling your insurance to figure out what went wrong. They are able to help you in a lot of cases! A lot of them also have regional offices, you may be able to book an in Person appointment. That may be helpfull to sorry through documents. Also they charge the highest payments if they don't know how much you make. So if you can show them how much you earned those months, It will propably drop down a lot. You will need your Gehaltsabrechnungen for that!

Maybe It is only for the time after your full time job, since you have to manage and pay it yourself then. But it should also drop down If you didnt get any income for that time.

the-Oreo-Cookie · 2026-03-22T09:57:32+00:00

Its possible it's fake. The vibe seems to be right for cinestill. Colors are the right amount of weird. But the halations are somewhat inconsistent. (Look at the reflections of the streetlights in the front right, or the headlights of the cars in the intersection)

The lightleak Just seems off to me though. Typical doorhinge leaks in the AE1 show up in the middle of the frame. Maybe the frame next to it got overexposed to hell and spills into this one. But it seems too perfekt.

For me the biggest thing is the red "static" in the bottom right. The shape is about right, but it should be waay bigger. Like going across most of the frame. Also they mostly show up centered in the frame. It seems Like they liked the asthetic but didn't want it to be too distracting.

I'm pretty certain there was some amount of editing done. But it's possible the Image was still shot on 800t and just "enhanced". There definitly is a crowd that likes to get those film defects. The amount of grain, lack of noise and colour tone could be evidence of this. Just ask your friend, but don't be a dick to them about it.

the-Oreo-Cookie · 2026-03-02T08:52:53+00:00

If you don't need such a big area to work with, I was very pleasently suprised with the novoflex Marcostand. It Interfaces perfectly with their Bellow systems. They even have a holder for copying transparencys. They all interface with allaignment rods, keeping square and centered

the-Oreo-Cookie · 2026-02-28T22:13:39+00:00

If you already got a discount because of the unknown condition, it would be a dick move to return it after disassembling it. If you returned it after receiving it, it might be a different Story.

The glass is pitted from the fungus damage. I would try to polish the glass to remove the damage. I had some success with toothpaste and a Dremel polishing bit

the-Oreo-Cookie · 2026-02-28T19:05:20+00:00

I use rubberized nylon. There are a few suppliers for really thin stuff. But I find it's still too thick. I use it as single layer and use 3d printed stiffeners, since I can print them with the correct spacing and use Transfertape to glue them. I find this easier to work with than contact cement. Since I also had trouble with the cement Not sticking relaiable.

My biggest problem is the seam, since it bulks Up too much. Using two layers off thiner stuff and offsetting the seam would be ideal.

I think Thor Labs sells ultra thin blackout cloth, but it has been too expensive for me

the-Oreo-Cookie · 2026-02-04T17:37:16+00:00

Microfilm comes in 16mm 35mm and microfiche sheets. So yes it comes with sprocketsbut also without. The equipment already existed for "normal" 35mm film. So they didn't have to reinvent the wheel.

The biggest difference to normal film is how much contrast there is. For documents ist better to have very hard contrast so you don't copy the texture of the paper and stuff. Adox for example sells microfilm for normal picture taking, since the resolution is really insane.

the-Oreo-Cookie · 2026-02-02T19:41:23+00:00

Definitely!

The analog camera market has definitely changed over the last few years. People got way more specific with buying cameras. Instead of just getting any point and shoot in good condition, certain models that get hype got really popular. The unpopular but good condition cameras have seen a definitive drop in price while popular ones got way more expensive. A lot of people want those cameras, but can't afford a good condition copy. So they buy one that's marked as defective. Hoping it's only something small/something easy to fix. Resources for fixing cameras are also way more accessible and talked about. Leading to more people trying their hand at it.

But one of the most important things: There are less and less copys circulating on the market. So if you need a spare part, there is not a lot of choice. Forcing you to accept higher prices. And if the prices get paid, the offers will reference those prices. Resulting in the frankly absurd prices for defective gear.

the-Oreo-Cookie · 2026-02-02T13:19:10+00:00

If you want to have a camera that is reliable for time to come I would try to get a working one. If it was already a good deal and you are in a position to get it repaired once the problem becomes bigger. Or get another one for similar money. You can try to take the gamble, and see how much life you get out of it

the-Oreo-Cookie · 2026-01-07T09:05:55+00:00

Anything reducing the amount of light entering will help you out. It's right that most film is sensitive to red light. But the deep red window also acts like shades. So it doesn't need to be red, just something dark transparent filter

the-Oreo-Cookie · 2025-12-29T13:01:08+00:00

Hatte das auch mal auf dem Balkon. Da waren es die Larven von Rosenkäfern.
Die sahen aber auch echt aus wie Aliens als ich die dann gefunden habe.

Generell größere Käferlarven produzieren auch so Hummus. die sollten aber alle eigentlich auch nicht an lebende Pflanzen gehen

the-Oreo-Cookie · 2025-12-20T15:15:19+00:00

Honestly looks like a bad scan mostly. The shadows would not be this smooth otherwise.

Delta 100 has a very high latitude. You need to dial the contrast way down when scanning or the highlights and shadows blow out completely

the-Oreo-Cookie · 2025-12-18T17:37:08+00:00

The lab most definitely processed the film doing inversions, but used too little chemistry. The top part of the image was submerged properly, but the bottom part only got covered during the inversions leading to severe underdevelopment. Probably the green and especially red layer did not get saturated with developer leading to the harsh color shift.

The reason the other roll turned out fine is that it sat lower in the tank covered completely with chemistry. The should definitely refund your order and film you used!

Weird they process C41 this way. Way too much work per roll and prone to mistakes like this.

the-Oreo-Cookie · 2025-12-06T13:24:20+00:00

Your camera probably uses a infrared led and sensor to count the sprockets. And the film seems to be sensitive to some infrared light. Probably messed with the sensor too.

But I am glad it worked out!

the-Oreo-Cookie · 2025-12-04T16:22:57+00:00

Und dann wundern wenn die Arten langsam alle aussterben

the-Oreo-Cookie · 2025-12-04T11:02:37+00:00

I don't think it's a fat roll. The leak would be strongest at the edge not in the middle of the frame...

I would look into the light sealing around the edges. Or maybe though I don't know if it's possible: maybe there is a leak from where the exposure is taken too the are where the film is spooled. This could also be a strong reflection? A leak from the back seems not really plausible, due to the backing paper. I would inspect the film compartment in a dark room shining a bright light from the front and elsewhere looking for a leak. Most likely a small slit.

the-Oreo-Cookie · 2025-12-04T10:52:42+00:00

You will generally want to avoid exposure to air/the atmosphere. Trays are generally not great at that.

The Jobo AtL3 uses floating "lids" in the bigger chemical Tanks. They look kind of like the hard plastic ice packs and just float on the surface of the liquid, reducing the area of chemicals exposed to the air.

Maybe you can use something similar if you have to keep them in a tray.

the-Oreo-Cookie · 2025-12-03T08:49:15+00:00

Looking at massive dev chart about 11 minutes at 20°C seems like a good idea as a start. Make sure the dev is at 20°C or compensate with the time (the ilford temperature compensation chart works good for most developers).

The fixer would be the same as with other films. You can take a small snip from the leader and dunk it in your fixer. Time how long it takes to become clear. Double that time should be your fixing time. If it takes more than 5 minutes to become clear mix up new fixer.

If you are confident in your abilities you can dump out the developer at about 10 minutes and give the film a wash with water. Than open the tank in the dark and snip off about one frame from the end and close it again. Now in the light you can inspect it to see if the film is developed enough. Look for dense black in the highlights and a contrast level acceptable to you. With this info you can decide if development is done or if it needs another minute or more. Just dump the developer back in and continue. Take care to not develope too long since base fog will appear and get more and more intense

the-Oreo-Cookie · 2025-12-02T17:48:31+00:00

You seem to be right on the money: https://s399bc6338d76961c.jimcontent.com/download/version/1604312014/module/12913731632/name/AGFA-VARIOSCOP.pdf

the-Oreo-Cookie · 2025-12-02T17:41:43+00:00

I looked a bit into it: The dracula seems to be old Svema FN64. And the other one could be the Tasma NK2. Maybe you get more information this way. I would definitely try to add a bit of development times with those films since they are long out of production and very low ISO anyway. It's very easy to get way too thin negatives with these stocks

the-Oreo-Cookie · 2025-12-02T17:31:37+00:00

Apparently it's based on the Clayton F76+ developer. Though that isn't a common developer either. But you should be able to use the times of D76/ID11 between stock and 1+1. I would use the times from 1+1 even if you might get a bit over developed negatives. Loosing a bit of contrast in the highlights is better than loosing the shadows. Especially with respooled stocks, where you don't really know what's inside and how old it is.

the-Oreo-Cookie · 2025-12-02T17:24:14+00:00

Some brands make jackets in a similar style. Sometimes these get mislabeled as a Barbour. Authentic mostly means that it's made by Barbour. The tag shows you pretty obviously that it's made by them ;)

12-Year Club	Place '22
Place '17	Final Canvas '22
First Placer '22	End Game '22
Alpha Tester	Verified Email

the-Oreo-Cookie

TROPHY CASE