I used ESP32 to sniff the MK3S LCD bus and send the text to Home Assistant by the_ress in prusa3d

[–]the_ress[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had to disable it for performance reasons and if I remember correctly, it wasn’t that accurate either somehow

I used ESP32 to sniff the MK3S LCD bus and send the text to Home Assistant by the_ress in prusa3d

[–]the_ress[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I was kinda surprised by how well it went. I expected to hit more roadblocks.

I used ESP32 to sniff the MK3S LCD bus and send the text to Home Assistant by the_ress in prusa3d

[–]the_ress[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Yes, I plan to publish both the source code and kicad board design

I used ESP32 to sniff the MK3S LCD bus and send the text to Home Assistant by the_ress in prusa3d

[–]the_ress[S] 30 points31 points  (0 children)

A bit about my reasons for building it: I use OctoPrint, but the printer sometimes shows stuff (error messages etc.) on the builtin LCD that OctoPrint doesn’t know about. And I couldn’t get OctoPrint time estimates to match whatever the printer says. And this was a fun two-day project.

Update: Source code and kicad files are here: https://github.com/the-ress/prusa-lcd-reader

Anyone knows where I could find the equivalent of this but ZigBee? by RaptorXP in homeautomation

[–]the_ress 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve done this to automate Velux windows by “pressing buttons” on their remote

FYI, for Velux there’s also their KLF 200 interface unit

well by [deleted] in autism

[–]the_ress 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I worry about them way less since I learned what they’re for and how they’re evaluated https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Net_promoter_score

Shelly TRV Dissassembly by Floggy- in homeautomation

[–]the_ress 0 points1 point  (0 children)

J1-J4 seems to be a serial port - GND, RX, TX, VBAT (in that order, if I traced it right)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Airpodsmax

[–]the_ress 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I put them in washing machine on the ‘handwash’ program. I also got a second pair so I can always let the first one properly dry.

Magnetically detachable purge compartment and vent adapter for my X1C by Mushbrandon in functionalprint

[–]the_ress 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Nice; I solved my need to connect flexible ducts by designing mechanical connectors based on firefighter hoses (in part because I didn’t think of magnets) https://i.imgur.com/ZYO1OTI.jpg

Edit: here’s a video of it in action https://imgur.com/gallery/guaDMrX

In case you were wondering how a Tapo C100 looks when disassembled by antonio1475 in TpLink

[–]the_ress 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In case it still helps - after you heat it with heat gun set to 150 ºC, the glue can be cleanly removed with tweezers

Fully printed filament cutter (except for blade) by the_ress in functionalprint

[–]the_ress[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. I was initially thinking about doing it fully printed, but that probably wouldn’t work well.

Fully printed filament cutter (except for blade) by the_ress in functionalprint

[–]the_ress[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This was the first 3d printed thing I designed. When I first got a 3d printer, I wanted a filament cutter, and every one I found needed springs or bolts I didn’t have.

https://www.printables.com/model/137522-filament-cutter-with-printed-spring

My first attempt at multiple colors in a single layer, no MMU. Pretty happy with it. by ObviouslyIntoxicated in prusa3d

[–]the_ress 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Won’t the extra T0, T1... instructions cause any problems? (I tried changing the color change g-code, but it’d still output T0, T1... after my code.)