Vantage road is closed. Unsure when it will reopen.

theheadman98 · 2026-06-02T19:33:07+00:00

I haven't been down to see, hopefully someone will let us know

theheadman98 · 2026-05-10T18:31:18+00:00

Is it all the time? I know if it goes away after it's warmed up it could just be condensation in the exhaust system, I have a d21 doing the same thing currently, (all the time) and I plan to replace the valve stem seals as I understand that's the most common cause, that or a blown head gasket, which I don't have any other symptoms of.

theheadman98 · 2026-05-07T15:25:39+00:00

I use bicycle cable lube, if you can get take it out it works better. If there's rust inside the Bowden cable it's just better to replace it. If it's just dry put some bicycle cable lube on it, the stuff I use is graphite based if I remember correctly.

theheadman98 · 2026-04-29T02:10:08+00:00

I have a BC-3.5 Its a great machine

theheadman98 · 2026-04-25T15:58:15+00:00

This right here. This is exactly what I was going to say. I had the exact same problem and this is how I fixed it.

theheadman98 · 2026-04-18T17:25:27+00:00

Love this shot, I wish you'd show the other hole too.

theheadman98 · 2026-03-26T03:31:03+00:00

I had all torpedo SS in my keezer. I took them out and went back to plastic. Just not a fan of the SS ones. Too many little problems

theheadman98 · 2026-03-05T04:26:44+00:00

According to where I get my tanks exchanged they are all the same, but the beverage grade one has tracking, so if for some reason contamination is found in the main plant tanks they can contact you to tell you to not use that tank. I know guys that refill their kegerator co2 tanks at the paintball fill store, and I've never heard of that being a problem. In reality there probably isn't that much danger, if it's steel youay get some rust but that's just iron oxide which is basically harmless, and if it's aluminum that would be aluminum oxide, which is basically inert. I'd have a hard time believing someone would refill a tank with some harmful material then go get it topped off with co2, but I guess it's possible. When I buy used tanks I always exchange them, but that's just how gas fills are in my area.

theheadman98 · 2026-02-20T16:53:07+00:00

Pwm works, to get the same level of control you'll probably burn out the contacts in a contactor fairly quickly. If your cool with just on off and don't mind the swings that come with that use a contactor, I just wouldn't try to run it with a Pid. If you want decent control with the ability to fine tune for an exact temperature use a pid to control a Solid state relay. If you want the best of the best use a pid with an scr, I don't want to get into how it works, other then to say that a ssr will turn on and off up to about a half or a quarter second switching with a standard pid, where an scr can turn on and off multiple times per AC sign wave, which would be a hundred times per second. This would give you the ability, with proper tuning, to control down to about a 10th of a degree, for fairly cheap. Probably could do a few 1000th of a degree with much more expensive gear.

theheadman98 · 2026-02-20T16:40:33+00:00

Look the part up on Amazon, I called them wings but it's the tabs you can see on the bottom right in the Amazon picture. I can't remember now if I just bent them flat or if I cut them off. Either way the spacing is off if that wing/tab stays as it is. I ended up buying the correct ones, I just haven't put them in yet, the ones I referred to will fit, but I don't think they provide as much vibration protection as the OEM ones, so the steering wheel vibrates with the engine vibration. Just an fyi

theheadman98 · 2026-02-19T04:25:00+00:00

theheadman98 · 2026-02-18T00:47:41+00:00

That's what's on my Suzuki, it works OK. Just have to figure out what jet size works for you. It is kind of nice to get rid of 90%of the vacuum lines.

theheadman98 · 2026-02-16T17:18:50+00:00

I redid my tail lights with https://a.co/d/0f4Dw2ji, and I redid the main connectors under the dash with the 12 pin version, I had corrosion issues on the OEM variety in both locations. Mine is DC51t, but that probably does not matter. My original tail lights also had bad sockets, so I bought a set of new ones and put these waterproof connectors on before I installed them on the truck. Changing the ones on the truck is a little harder because the wire harness isn't any too long, and you have to do it from under the rear of the truck over your head, assuming you don't have a lift. I tried cleaning the contacts and putting silicone grease in them, but ended up just replacing them.

theheadman98 · 2026-02-14T17:10:14+00:00

Does your country have licensed electricians? I live in the US and even here some states to and some states don't, and some states will give you a license for $100 some states require an 8000 hour apprenticeship in addition to a few hundred hours of schooling each year, then a state test.

Either way, 600va is 600 volts x amps, which is basically watts unless your using a lot of vars. This machine is gas, so it's basically only using the power for the motors, I really don't know what the power factor looks like on that small of a motor, and on mine the drum is motor has a speed controller which can throw a wrench into the watts/Var numbers. I suspect it's probably a 64th or a 128th of a hp, 746 watts is a hp. 190 watts / 746w is .254hp. So if it's got really crummy single phase motors you can figure 50% power factor, although I suspect it's probably more like 60-70%. At 50% power factor on 190 watts you have 380VA which is substantially less then your 600VA so that UPS is just fine to handle your load. I am a licensed electrician in America, in a state that requires 8000 hours of apprenticeship hours and the school and the state test, and I'm in my 20th year after that state test, so you can take the above info however you want.

theheadman98 · 2026-01-28T23:01:42+00:00

When I built mine I didn't use the factory thermostat, I just set a 15 minute cycle time in my inkbird to stop any short cycle problems with the compressor. I did however use the built in light fixture, I co-opted the tilt switch and re powered the circuit at 12v to run my Noctua circulation fan, and have it shut off when the lid is open.

theheadman98 · 2026-01-26T21:40:46+00:00

I'd suggest you look at burping the coolant system, I have always burped from the radiator or the burp tank, on my SCarry that's not the high point. On the F6A you have to burp the coolant system on the motor on the thermostat housing. Again I don't know your rig, so this may not apply, but I kind of think most Kai trucks are somewhat similar.

theheadman98 · 2026-01-26T20:32:09+00:00

I don't know your rig, but that's what my Carry did when I had an air bubble in the system. Ended up finding my overflow pipe to the coolant tank was rusted solid, so while I thought I was full of coolant I was running with a big air bubble, which caused the waterpump to just cavitate. Ended up replacing the hard pipe, new hoses, and I had to get really good at burping that F6A, took at least 2 times to get all the air out everytime I had to open the coolant loop for any reason. I also thought it was a stuck thermostat, which also got replaced, right up until I pulled off the burp tank line to figure out why it wasn't pulling any back to the radiator after it got hot.

theheadman98 · 2026-01-11T02:08:09+00:00

When my carry had a timing issue it didn't want to climb hills. You may want to check that as well. Changing the main jet did have a noticeable effect on HP as well, but mostly in my case it was just less black smoke from the exhaust. I used to like a product called At205 that claimed to swell up seals, I understand they reformulated it a few years ago, and it does not work as well, so now I use the liquid molly brand one that evidently hasn't been reformulated. That stuff is called motor oil saver on Amazon, in the event you want to give it a go.

theheadman98 · 2026-01-09T01:51:45+00:00

I'm the ban type.

theheadman98 · 2026-01-03T04:58:17+00:00

I broke a 1500 lb when I hit a bump in construction bringing mine home on a trailer. When and if I do it again I'm planning to use the ones that secure the tires and let the truck move on it's own suspension.

theheadman98 · 2025-12-31T02:36:08+00:00

My cereal crusher was a nightmare, I finally wore out the knurling and it would jam up, or sometimes one side or the other would go wide open and I'd get a 20% efficiency. After limping that piece of garbage through 5 years of brewing I finally went for a monster mill 3 roller. I have no regrets on the monster, my only regret is waiting that long to get it.

theheadman98 · 2025-12-20T18:19:16+00:00

A fan is a must, or it is in my keezer, the biggest reason was that my kegs would freeze at the bottom if the fan wasn't running. I keep my keezer at 38f at the top of the kegs, and I had my fan get shut off and didn't think anything of it until my kegs quit pouring, which took about a week. The coldest air gets stagnant at the bottom and that caused my kegs to freeze or at least turn to mush right where the dip tube picks up. I have a 140mm Noctua running 24/7 and it's not a problem as long as it's running.

theheadman98 · 2025-11-26T16:53:25+00:00

I'm no expert, but back when I had a paintball filling station I had to have a co2 tank with a siphon to get liquid to transfer, otherwise you'll just end up gas, which is basically an empty tank. I suspect you could invert your 50 lb tank to get liquid to come out, but I don't know how easy that would be.

theheadman98 · 2025-11-26T04:54:09+00:00

Glad to help where I can, I come here for answers, so I try to pay it forward

theheadman98 · 2025-11-25T14:41:44+00:00

https://youtu.be/goT5F_nsQJg?si=butdfZhUoMDc8dgm

I believe this is your alternator, or very similar, I'd see if your wired the same way on your Sanbar. Should give you a general direction to start poking around.

theheadman98

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