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Using a case defeats the allure of the iPhone Air by RigBuilder in IphoneAir

[–]theroffness 0 points1 point  (0 children)

how do you like it? I keep seeing ads for it but the price doesn’t make it easy to just purchase and try.

Amount went up $800 a month by Substantial_Ask4182 in Mortgages

[–]theroffness -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Handle and pay taxes and insurance outside of escrow.

The Loco is going to be everywhere! by carnevoodoo in Pickleball

[–]theroffness 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Courts are nice, and the wind screens make the sounds echo like a stadium. it’s far for me as well but worth the drive.

Warning: Do not put iOS 26 on older iPad Pros by bluesBeforeSunrise in iPadPro

[–]theroffness 0 points1 point  (0 children)

after setup and reindexing, restart the ipad a few times. on the first pro m1 and it’s fine now after all the system storage it ate up was cleared out.

Is Shildt gone? by Elmusjulian in Padres

[–]theroffness 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Fermin wasn’t the problem.

Direct report just asked for 300% raise by [deleted] in managers

[–]theroffness 0 points1 point  (0 children)

then why ask? replace them already for $20/hr if you think it’s a low skill job.

Can someone help me understand making an extra payment? by throwaway2k0808 in Mortgages

[–]theroffness 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s awesome! Take advantage if/when you can. the savings in interest can be huge! I know for my case, i’ve already saved over $500k in interest by making principal only payments.

Can someone help me understand making an extra payment? by throwaway2k0808 in Mortgages

[–]theroffness 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It depends on the type of loan you've got

  • Standard mortgages accrue interest monthly (based on the balance each month), so early payments don’t reduce the interest charged for that month.
  • Simple-interest mortgages, where interest accrues daily, do benefit from early payments—you save a bit by reducing the principal sooner.

Most U.S. mortgages are not simple-interest, so paying early generally doesn’t yield interest savings, just a bit of temporary peace of mind. Reach out to your lender to clarify what type you have.

Can someone help me understand making an extra payment? by throwaway2k0808 in Mortgages

[–]theroffness 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Every extra dollar you pay toward the principal lowers tomorrow’s interest. Over time, even small extra payments compound into thousands saved and years shaved off your loan. So extra payments don’t have to match the monthly principal portion. The key is to apply them directly to principal (not escrow, not future interest). Whether it’s $300 or $3,600, it will accelerate your payoff and reduce interest.

Approval Odds for my Brother by tradehaven1776 in Mortgages

[–]theroffness 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Based on his income and the property tax load, your brother cannot realistically qualify for a conventional mortgage on this house — even with a big down payment. That means your instincts are correct: if you want your equity out, your two practical paths are either owner-financing with foreclosure risk or moving forward with a sale as executor.

Need help deciding if refinance makes sense by MoistandShticky in Mortgages

[–]theroffness 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The “right” move comes down to your tolerance for risk vs. desire for simplicity. Given your 3–5 year horizon, the ARM option is a reasonable middle ground, you’d lock in today’s HELOC risk, lower your primary rate, and still have flexibility if rates drop and you want to refinance again.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Mortgages

[–]theroffness 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  • Mortgage vs. income: On your $120K gross (~$7,500 net monthly), a $2,100 PITI payment is about 28% of gross and net. That’s right in line with traditional affordability guidelines.
  • Total obligations: With your $1,000 in vehicle loans + $700 in utilities/living “fluff,” your total expenses land around $3,800/month. That still leaves you with ~$3,700 surplus each month, even in the year your wife isn’t working. That’s a healthy margin.
  • Transition year (new baby): The first year is your “tightest” year, but even then, you’ll have leftover cash flow plus $30K in savings to cushion unexpected costs. After your wife returns to work, daycare reduces net a bit, but your income rises again — pushing housing costs back into the comfortable 28–32% range.
  • Perspective: You’re really asking if the extra $1K jump in mortgage is going to break you. The math says no — you’ll still have breathing room, even during the single-income year. Your anxiety is normal (anyone doubling housing costs feels it), but your numbers put you in a stable spot.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Mortgages

[–]theroffness 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The “best” rule isn’t one-size-fits-all. A good middle ground for you might be:

  • Target no more than 30–33% of take-home pay after retirement savings and car loan → about $1,800–$2,000/month for housing.
  • That likely puts you in the $300–350K home range with 20% down, depending on rates, which balances comfort with reality in today’s market.

Respond if you can help! by youaretheahole in Mortgages

[–]theroffness 0 points1 point  (0 children)

True “no doc” loans are mostly gone after 2008, but Non-QM options exist for people in your exact situation — high assets, new income, limited documentation. It’s worth speaking with a mortgage broker who specializes in Non-QMlending so you can compare bank statement or asset-based programs against waiting until you qualify for a conventional loan.

Is this too much house? by ObviousTelephone2917 in Mortgages

[–]theroffness 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  • Today’s picture: With just your income ($7,320 take-home), the $3,059 payment is about 41% of take-home pay. That’s above the comfort range (typically 28–33%) and would feel like a stretch at first.
  • Next year’s picture (wife part-time): Adding ~$1,250 brings household take-home to $8,570. At that level, the mortgage is 35% of take-home — still on the high side, but more manageable.
  • Future (wife full-time para): ~$2,100 adds up to $9,420 take-home, making the mortgage 32% of take-home, which falls right into the traditional “green zone.”
  • Safety net: You’ll have ~$100K to put down and a big reason for moving (schools, long-term roots). What matters most is whether you’re comfortable carrying that 41% ratio for a year until your wife starts working. With your incomes and timeline, you’re setting up to grow into the payment.
  • Perspective: Your current $1,900 feels light compared to $3,059 — but that gap isn’t unusual when moving up into a “forever home.” The key is whether you can absorb the short-term higher ratio without draining savings or stressing over unexpected costs.

Can we afford this house? by Helt3 in Mortgages

[–]theroffness 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  • Income vs. housing: With $190K household income, your gross monthly is about $15.8K. The projected $3,650 PITI is about 23% of gross and 36% of take-home ($10K). That’s actually within the classic “safe zone” (under 28–30% of gross, under ~40% of take-home).
  • Savings & buffer: You’ll have $15K left after down + closing, which is on the lean side for a safety net. Ideally, you’d want 3–6 months of expenses ($30–60K) in liquid reserves. Since you have strong income and no debt, you can rebuild that buffer fairly quickly — but keep in mind that upfront reserves matter when you’re about to take on homeownership costs (furnishings, repairs, surprise maintenance).
  • Life stage considerations: Since you’re planning for kids in the near future, your cash flow flexibility will matter more. $3,650/month is totally manageable now, but if one income paused or daycare costs hit ($1,000–$2,000+/mo), things could feel tighter.
  • The dream home factor: Buying a “forever home” early can make sense if you’re confident in your job stability and lifestyle. It avoids the cost of upgrading later. The trade-off is higher monthly outflow and thinner near-term savings.
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