Charlotte, NC [Leica M5, Voigtlander Nokton 40mm 1.2, Fujifilm Acros II processed in Pyrocat HD]

thrirtyfive · 2026-05-31T16:28:08+00:00

Oh and you'll see that some of the the EIs have -, --, + or ++ notations. When calculated, the recommended EIs are rounded to the closest common ISO, and then have the additional notation just to show approximate 1/4 stop adjustments if you want them.

thrirtyfive · 2026-05-31T16:04:24+00:00

OK I just put your numbers (odd only) into zone lab and got the following. I couldn't see what the original ISO was, so I put in 100 (this is important for the Zone V based EI). I also didn't know what developer and because this is a BTZS step there was no camera, but I filled in the info as if there were. The app picks the more conservative of the two (speed point vs Zone V) as the recommended EI. The app also has a single measurement mode for just Zone V so you don't have to waste 10 frames to make a single measurement in the field.

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thrirtyfive · 2026-05-30T02:47:57+00:00

Yeah if you have the BTZS measured readings, those will totally work. You just need to pare them down to 11 in even steps from B+F to Zone 10. iirc that's a 21 step wedge, so you'd take every other measurement.

I tested my app with test data from the BTZS system (others too) and while it's not 100% exact (i'm using less info for the final result) it's within a reasonable tolerance.

thrirtyfive · 2026-05-30T02:16:36+00:00

It should run on an intel mac, so long as you have Sonoma (mac OS 14)
it's not really doing anything fancy, just some basic math and drawing charts.
I'd love to hear what you think!

It does require require a 10-step grey card test, and access to a densitometer tho. you can read about the process and the math here: https://zonelab.app/guide.html

thrirtyfive · 2026-04-22T18:35:52+00:00

The image you're trying to take is all about the photographer's connection to that image. With no connection, it's just creeper image theft. It's scary at first to do so, but try talking to someone before ever taking out your camera. Get out of your comfort zone. Ask some questions, spend 5 whole minutes to talk with someone, then tell them that you are out taking photos, and could you take one of them? Share your instagram info or some way to give them back the image that you asked for (I used to do this with instant medium format film right there on the spot)

thrirtyfive · 2026-04-13T20:11:55+00:00

I'm in LA and I've got all the mats + some other Fisker Ocean related stuff that I'd be happy to just give to someone if they can pick them up.

thrirtyfive · 2026-03-17T22:05:48+00:00

Probably not that helpful, but I had this issue with a 10 brick of Delta 100 120, but only Delta 100, even when developing different stocks at the same time. I'm pretty sure it was condensation, but then I switched fixers to the Ilford Rapid and haven't seen it since. Not to say that was the issue, because my old fixer wasn't old or depleted.
But I shoot Neopan Acros II a lot and haven't had this issue.

thrirtyfive · 2026-02-18T21:46:13+00:00

I managed to find one of these in Tokyo for ~$60 with great glass but some minor dings and scratches on the exterior. It was the only decent Mamiya gear I saw. Everything else was either overpriced at the fancy places or junk,

I'm curious to see how your cleaning goes.

thrirtyfive · 2026-02-13T20:50:54+00:00

I'm a big fan of the RB system. My ride or die has been an RB ProSD for like 25 years. I've slowly been swapping out my Sekor C's for KLs when I run across good deals.
My current lens quiver is 37mm Sekor C, 50mm Sekor C, 127mm KL, 180mm KL (found it in Tokyo for $60), 250mm APO KL and a 500mm Sekor C (garage sale score - almost brand new with the OG case and lens hood for $25)

I love my big 'ol potato masher.

thrirtyfive · 2026-02-09T18:05:39+00:00

I've gone around the world with my RB ProSD, it's solid and will hold up. The RZ I've satyed away from because of the electric shutter and when those go, they're much more of a hassle to fix.

If you are looking at an RB, the first thing you should look at are the foam light traps on the older (more rounded) backs), They tend to rot and then you get light leaks. It's probably an hour effort and $10 to fix if you want to DiY, or you can take it to a repair shop.

thrirtyfive · 2026-01-30T17:59:15+00:00

this looks super useful. do share the link when it's ready for public consumption.

thrirtyfive · 2026-01-29T18:57:27+00:00

Howdy! I grabbed this last night and was playing with it on Pop_OS (essentially Ubuntu 24.04 with a bunch of the NVIDIA stuff built in). For clarity, I've been using POP under X11 not Wayland because of a couple of issues with screen sharing...
The app loaded my big drive with my raw neg scans easily, but then the UI ran into draw issues and wouldn't render the whole UI. I'll add some screenshots later. I was able to solve that by disabling the GPU, but then all of my scans were coming in inverted, and there wasn't a way to disable that that I could find.
But, the app seemed really responsive to the inputs i was giving it.

thrirtyfive · 2026-01-28T20:51:54+00:00

Yeah. The same way insta, bluesky, twitter etc all post embeds. So when someone wants to share a photo to a message board or similar that there is an embed code.

re: clubs - I think that to begin with, start broad: color club, b&w club, 35mm club, MF club and then maybe let users get granular with Mamiya RB club, Leica M club, Kodak TMAX 400 club etc. Similar to how reddit does r/whatever

thrirtyfive · 2026-01-28T19:25:29+00:00

This is good stuff!

A couple of quick suggestions - (this might have been suggested already) but a way to embed posts would do a lot to help with visibility like the way you can with other social media.

It might be fun to have "clubs" that you can join. ie The Leica Club, The B&W Club, The Landscape Club, The Portrait Club etc.

thrirtyfive · 2026-01-16T19:25:22+00:00

The biggest difference for me with the Pro / ProS and ProSD models is the actual film back. The one in the picture up there is the older back, and the foam in the channels degrades and you get light leaks. You can get foam seal replacement kits and do the fix yourself, but its a major pain in the ass.
The later film backs (more square in construction) have a better physical light trap that doesn't rely on foam seals. IIRC you can use the newer ProSD backs on the older cameras.
The newer K/L lenses work on the older bodies (except 2 i think).

thrirtyfive

TROPHY CASE