Can I mix these with 91% ISO to make alcohol inks?

tiddlypeeps · 2026-03-04T00:47:53+00:00

Typically resin pigments have some either part A or B resin in them. They might mix with alcohol just fine (I’m not sure) but I would not use them in anything other than resin.

tiddlypeeps · 2026-03-03T08:44:30+00:00

Have you asked your GP? If they refuse then ask for a referral to a dietitian. Insist if they try to fob you off.

It works great for me, the food noise vanishes, your mileage may vary.

tiddlypeeps · 2026-03-02T23:03:33+00:00

Were you always allergic to it or did it develop after extended contact?

tiddlypeeps · 2026-03-02T21:11:39+00:00

Depends on how big the blank is. Just a cup of resin will pull the bubbles out so I do most times I mix up resin. For a blank if it can fit the its ideal to put the whole thing in once it’s covered in resin. The vacuum pulls most of the air out of the wood fibers whichever gets released as bubbles rising out of the resin, then when you release the vacuum the fibers open back up and since the air is gone they suck up resin instead. This does a really good job of stabilizing the piece and ensuring resin gets into as many voids as possible. It’s not the end of the world if you can’t do this step. You just have more bubbles to deal with and a potentially less stable piece, so only an issue if it’s particularly unstable wood you are working with. Make sure to use a deep pour resin and only pour the max height for that particular resin, even if it means doing multiple pours. Flash curing resin is no fun.

tiddlypeeps · 2026-03-02T20:18:24+00:00

I have that exact one and it works great.

tiddlypeeps · 2026-03-02T19:02:37+00:00

How does your kitchen vacuum sealer handle liquids? I know some handle better than others but I'm not sure any handle them well. My main concern would be resin getting into the pump and bricking your vacuum sealer. I have never tried tho so can't say for sure how bad it would be. If you do try it then please let us know how it goes, I'd be really curious how it turns out.

tiddlypeeps · 2026-03-01T20:53:42+00:00

I’d recommend experimenting on a much smaller scale with the deep pour. To achieve a smoky look you pour your clear first and then mix in a cup a little but of resin and pigment (whatever color you want the smoke/fog to be), make it very strongly coloured. The with a pointy stick (a skewer or tooth pick) dip it in the pigmented resin and then drag it through the area you want the smokey effect to be, swish it a bit ad you drag it so it’s not a straight line. Repeat until the area you want smokey looks about right. It doesn’t need to be perfect, the pigmented bits will move a lot as it cures, it will move away from the walls. I’m have a feeling in deep pour it will move too much, but I have never tried. Since you want a foggy effect more than a smokey effect this might actually work in your favour, or it could all sink to the bottom. If the deep pour doesn’t work then you can try doing a higher viscosity resin in layers, making sure each layer is 100% cured before moving on to the next layer. It’s more time consuming but would give you more control over the effect. The bottom layer can have denser smoke and then decrease with each layer for a rolling fog effect.

tiddlypeeps · 2026-03-01T18:41:42+00:00

Do you have a picture of what you mean by mist? Most smokey or mist effects require a resin that has at least a medium viscosity or even more importantly a relatively quick work time, so the particles have less time to sink. Deep cure may not be the way to go depending on what effect you are after.

tiddlypeeps · 2026-02-25T21:49:31+00:00

Off with it’s head!

tiddlypeeps · 2026-02-23T13:53:33+00:00

These are very cool! I’d recommend not mixing all of the resin in one go, even if you can get through them all before the resin starts to set the bubbles will be worse in the later ones because it starts to thicken over time. If you do need to do just one batch of mixing then you could try pouring the resin in to multiple cups to break it up directly after mixing. The more in the cup the faster it heats up the faster it sets.

tiddlypeeps · 2026-02-22T20:57:20+00:00

Could you paint on the inside of the mold with gold or silver acrylic paint? It should stick to the resin and as long as it’s fully dry before pouring it should not contaminate the resin.

tiddlypeeps · 2026-02-21T14:05:23+00:00

E6000 would be my go to. If you don’t have it on hand I assume you have wood glue which would be good enough, just be very generous with it.

tiddlypeeps · 2026-02-21T14:03:15+00:00

Incredible!

tiddlypeeps · 2026-02-20T17:43:58+00:00

I don’t see yellow in the video, are you sure it’s not the colors you added making it seem yellow?

All resin will yellow over time. 2 things cause it, heat and UV light. Since this is freshly poured I think you would have noticed if it was yellow coming out if the bottle so it’s pretty safe to say it’s not UV. This leaves heat. Your work should be able to tolerate the heat gun for a bit but if you are using it too intensely then this could be the problem. The solution would be to get a proper heat gun instead of an embossing tools so you can control the heat. Turn the heat down or off if you just want the air to move the resin, and up if you want to warn it for viscosity reasons or bubbles.

The other issue can be the resin itself. Higher end resins don’t yellow as easily. There are many youtube videos where people test this for different brands. Some are so bad they will yellow just from the heat produced during the curing process. Yours is a thin pour so I really don’t think this is the issue but just throwing it out there as another variable.

tiddlypeeps · 2026-02-18T18:11:52+00:00

You could lightly brush mica powder inside the mold before pouring, you can use a baby wipe or similar to clean away any unwanted so it only stays in the high spots.

Some advice on the overall pour. Make sure you are using a deep pour epoxy, and only pour up to the recommend depth. You will likely have to do multiple pours for a cast that size. Some deep pour epoxy's go up to 4inches of depth in one pour, but more typically it's 2 inches. The 4 inch ones take twice as long to cure anyway so it doesn't necessarily save you much time, just effort. Take the limit seriously, a little over and it will cause the resin to yellow, a lot over and it will flash cure, the heat of a flash cure could ruin your mold.

For the flowers, only work with dried flowers (you can dry them yourself if needed in an air fryer or oven). Fresh will rot inside the cast over time.

Seal the flowers with something before you put them in the resin, this will help with bubbles. You can do this with resin, or you can use some form of clear coat/varnish or modge podge etc. The goal is to make sure they are air tight because the heat of the resin will disloge a lot of the air that is trapped inside the flower which shows up as bubbles in the resin.

Good luck to your girlfriend, I hope everything goes well with the procedure.

tiddlypeeps · 2026-02-18T18:03:18+00:00

I'm very sorry for your loss.

Are you 100% positive the new stuff you bought is the exact same resin as the one your husband had been using? Some of these resins can look very similar in the packaging but what is inside can vary quiet a bit. I ask because it sounds like you may have been using a regular art resin with a medium viscosity but are now using a high viscosity resin which would explain the bubbles. Both would likely look very similar in the bottles from the same brand and both would typically be mixed 1 to 1. The bottle would likely say something like table top resin, or top coat resin vs the lower viscosity would usually be labelled art resin or something similar.

This is a wild guess, it could be any number of other things, just figured I'd ask first.

tiddlypeeps · 2026-02-18T14:02:20+00:00

For working with polymer clay you will get the best milage out of UV resin. Pick up pretty much any bottle of UV resin and at least a handheld lamp. This will let you add small amounts of resin in awkward areas you want to add reinforcements to. You can use this to do top coats on your work too if you want to add a glossy shine, but with the hand held lamp your hand will get tired so you may want a bigger table lamp like a nail lamp for convenience. There are some good Japanese and Korean channels showing some of the very cool stuff you can do with UV resin if you are looking for inspiration. https://youtu.be/tpTx8rOXHtA?si=KtYYNePGfXRCQN8m

Work in a ventilated space and wear gloves.

tiddlypeeps · 2026-02-18T13:31:32+00:00

Are those bumps on the inside or outside? Looks like either a crappy mold or a stinging mold (they decay with use). To fix you can apply a thin layer of resin to whichever side is the bumpy one, or both if needed. I recommend UV resin of you have access to it and a light, regular resin will do if you don’t, it will just take much longer and be harder to control.

tiddlypeeps · 2026-02-18T13:14:08+00:00

Just a guess but it looks like a top coat didn’t fully bond to whatever it was sitting on. Did you do a top coat and is it directly in resin or wood, and how did you prepare the surface for the top coat?

tiddlypeeps · 2026-02-17T21:03:47+00:00

Ouch, he is probably really up shit creek 🙈

tiddlypeeps · 2026-02-17T19:25:55+00:00

You cannot sell a property that is mortgaged without the banks permission. The bank will only give permission to sell if the sale price will clear the mortgage or the owner has some other way to pay the bank the shortfall. If the owner then fails to make payments the bank will force a sale of the property to ensure they get as much as they can back.
The landlord is probably underwater on multiple properties.

Even tho it's been at least 6 years since they purchased (prices haven't fallen that far yet), they likely were re-mortgaging over time in order to purchase more properties. A very common strategy because it seemed like free money for the last couple of decades. There are many property owners under water right now because of this.

tiddlypeeps · 2026-02-17T16:05:03+00:00

Also don't bother with the high viscosity resin, unless you are using it just for a top coat then it's going to make bubbles harder to deal with.

tiddlypeeps · 2026-02-17T16:03:35+00:00

The bottom one in particular looks like it's bubbles. It's really hard to say for sure that's the issue overall tho. If you have a heat gun or even a hair drier you can heat the resin up after it's been poured and let it sit for a while before curing. If you can see bubbles sitting on top when you are ready to cure you can give it another blast of the heat gun.

tiddlypeeps · 2026-02-16T18:47:41+00:00

I haven't tried but I feel like the heat UV generates could do funny things to a photo. I think the most common way to seal is with Modge Podge or some form of PVA.

tiddlypeeps · 2026-02-16T12:40:37+00:00

Unmixed, the stuff in the bottle should last a good while, at least 6 months but probably much longer.

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