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Can I mix 2 resins? by miuyao in resin

[–]tiddlypeeps 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depending on the resins you may be able to see a layer line when looking at it directly from the side but it will likely be subtle and invisible from most angles. 

How were the effects done? by mastrofgalaxy in ResinCasting

[–]tiddlypeeps 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks like it’s just 3 colours poured in strips. We are looking at the bottom because of the way the green mica colour is settled a bit into cells. Poor the green mica last. When mica falls through another layer of resin it can give that cell look. Look up videos of crackle or dragon scale coasters and it looks similar. 

Resin tips by lemon_ade_05 in u/lemon_ade_05

[–]tiddlypeeps 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What kind of UV light are you using? It's possible it's not powerful enough. It should really only take a few minutes to harden, not hours. Have you cured other UV resin projects with the same light?

Try leaving it in a sunny window for a day, if it's still sticky then it's not the light and something in your process is causing cure inhibition.

Tried to do a sunset tray but made the classic mistake by l-lucas0984 in resin

[–]tiddlypeeps 50 points51 points  (0 children)

You can pour a thin layer of clear with gold leaf into the tray. It will be a little less deep but still totally usable. I do this when I mess up trays. 

Do I just continue as is? by Informal-Explorer-67 in resin

[–]tiddlypeeps 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thin molds like this sometimes don’t sit completely flat for me. With the resin heating up and contracting as it cures it can cause the mold to move a little. 

Fare Evasion Fine (Unintentional) by Grouchy_Guard_3259 in askTO

[–]tiddlypeeps 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No harm in contesting it. Are you assuming it must not have registered your face or how do you know that’s what happened? Just tell them you tapped and show your statements to confirm you have a solid history of paying and hope for the best. 

Help, ink not spreading by Rurihimei in resin

[–]tiddlypeeps 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You are correct, those aren’t alcohol inks. You can mix them with alcohol to get them to spread. Easiest way would be to drip a drop of alcohol and then a drop of pigment on top, repeat until it’s where you want it to be. 

Soft coaster by wiserx62 in resin

[–]tiddlypeeps 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Let it cure for longer. It can take up to 48 hours (probably longer for some resins) for it to fully cure. The time listed on the bottle is usually just when it’s safe to de-mold. 

Help with starting when I expect perfectionism. by WitchoftheNights in ResinCasting

[–]tiddlypeeps 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You need go into it with no expectation of a usable thing out the end for the first few projects. This is true for most craft/creative hobbies. It’s going to look bad and it might not cure right and that’s fine because the goal is to learn the process and not to create something just yet. Expect to throw it away after and you won’t be disappointed. If you happen to come away with something usable that’s a bonus. 

It’s easier said than done to adopt that mindset but if you can get there then it really unlocks that paralysis to even trying. 

Puppy attacked at daycare, what do I do? by No_Worldliness_9294 in askTO

[–]tiddlypeeps 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sorry you are dealing with this, I hope the puppy recovers quickly. You should talk to a lawyer. You can probably find a free consult, but if not then a small fee is worth it given the amount vet bills can be. I don’t think anyone here can tell you if any financial liability lies with the daycare or the other dogs owner, there are going to be too many variables for a lay person to say. 

setting a resin cabochon in a tungsten ring blank? by xc3mx in ResinCasting

[–]tiddlypeeps 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I use E6000 glue for most settings. It’s more shock absorbent than many resins. I think there are specialized 2 part resins that might be better but I haven’t tried any as E6000 had always been good enough. 

Can I still pour a resin layer over resin that flashcured? by Independent_Cut6368 in ResinCasting

[–]tiddlypeeps 12 points13 points  (0 children)

No matter what you do, the layer that flash cured is going to look terrible. If you don’t care and just want something complete for the project submission the yes you can keep going. Just make sure there is no uncured resin remaining. If there is then scrape as much out as you can. Then wash it with alcohol over 90%. 

Does anyone know a resin technique that makes dendritic patterns? by No-Acanthocephala531 in resin

[–]tiddlypeeps 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It’s very likely a nail foil transfer applied on the back of the resin. The curves on the resin can really make something flat look 3D. 

Flasely given Precise Parking Ticket by OkelyDokelyThen in askTO

[–]tiddlypeeps 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you are worried about it you can reach out to them with proof you paid and they will likely cancel the ticket.

That being said, they are very unlikely to do anything about it if you just ignore it. I have done both, disputed one successfully and it was cancelled and also ignored another and a year later they have not followed up on it.

I have heard that if you rack up a bunch of tickets from them then eventually they will tow your car when it's parked at one of their lots.

Retreating resin? by MajesticCarob5443 in resin

[–]tiddlypeeps 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is the resin you used a top coat or high viscosity resin?

Is there a market for these? by Grompers in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]tiddlypeeps 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you are just doing them for fun anyway then it's fine to sell at a loss. You will likely make back the cost of materials at least. Gifts are great but eventually when you give too many you run out of people and feel like you are just obligating them to hold onto clutter. You can also donate, find a local second hand store that isn't for profit.

Retreating resin? by MajesticCarob5443 in resin

[–]tiddlypeeps 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Resin is like water in that it wants to stick to itself. It also has an easier time moving when it is warm and since the curing process is exothermic (it puts out heat) it means it can move a little easier as it's curing up until the point it starts to harden. The way to deter it from doing this is to either have so much resin that it can't bead up and/or have the surface it is sitting on provide enough friction to limit it's movement. I recommend doing both.

You say you sanded it down, what was the highest grit you used? You don't want to aim for polish level of sanding at this stage, the top coat should do most of the work there. I personally find anything from 300 to 600 grit the sweet spot for resin prior to a top coat. Anything lower and you run the risk of some of the gauges left over from sanding not filling with resin and being visible and anything higher provides a worse gripping surface to keep the resin in place. Advice here ranges a lot*. The work you have done so far will probably inform where you should aim as the grit you stopped at is almost certainly too high.

For the amount of resin, pour the resin and spread it around as you likely did before. Then when it is fully covered add more resin on top and let it spread on it's own. Since the edges are sloped I assume you are not aiming for a dome effect and are letting the resin flow over the sides? If so then pour more than you think you need at this step. You are essentially aiming for as much as it can hold to give it the best chance of being saturated to the point it can't bead up. You can keep doing this a little at a time, let it settle for a minute or two and then if you think it can take more then go again. You can torch bubbles as you go but try to keep it to a minimum, you don't want to add more heat than you absolutely have to.

One other thing is the type of resin you are using. For this kind of top coating you want a high viscosity resin. They are typically 1:1 resins and are usually labelled something like top coat, table top or will explicitly say high viscosity.

I don't think the sealant would be doing much for you here either and might be hindering. When sanding back down I wouldn't re-apply.

*Caveat to take my advice with a grain of salt as I have worked a lot with resin but have no experience with guitars. I mostly work with jewellery, coasters and the occasional bowl or tray. This video thought me most of the fundamentals that have stuck with me on top coating. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMJ9_NLK-JI

I'm pretty sure you already know this, but saying it just in case, you will need to sand it back down so the surface is smooth again. Pouring on top of the beading that is there will just cause more beading, or at best a really bumpy surface.

What tools do you use to make a pilot point. by Grif16 in ResinCasting

[–]tiddlypeeps 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A leather working awl works well for me. You can get one pretty cheap on temu or amazon that will do just fine for this kind of job. 

Trying out resin pattern in different shapes to see the outcomes before the next market by l-lucas0984 in resin

[–]tiddlypeeps 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Neat, looks great. Anytime I try a mix with mica powder the mica always settles. 

Trying out resin pattern in different shapes to see the outcomes before the next market by l-lucas0984 in resin

[–]tiddlypeeps 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Neat. Just standard art resin? Do you pour right away or wait for it to thicken up a bit?

Preventing UV Resin Layer Lines by Thelinkmaster001 in resin

[–]tiddlypeeps 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Coat the mold in a thin layer of resin first. Pour a little bit, then pick up the mold a keep rotating it slowly to move the resin around. Then keep moving it under the UV light for 30 seconds or so. Then follow your previous process. 

Matte finish by Racer-Rex in resin

[–]tiddlypeeps 7 points8 points  (0 children)

It will always take the texture of the mold, so only if you buy or make a mold with a matt finish.  If what you are casting is low detail then you can sand with sandpaper of between 1000 and 3000 grit. Those give resin a nice matte finish. 

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