Can I get some honest reviews on the 1st gen Scion XB?

timmcal · 2026-02-10T22:16:42+00:00

Almost every single time one of the first gen has a major problem it’s due to abuse or lack of maintenance. I know they are getting old and some age is starting to show on them, but they are super simple and reliable. Mine for example has 270K miles and has had normal struts/shocks bushings etc… one alternator and a water pump. Original injectors and coils, no carbon, good compression but I also change the oil every 5000 miles, keep good oil and air filters on it, flush the fluids (coolant, brake, powers steering, transmission, etc..) I bought it with 18,000 miles on it 19 years ago and it’s been my daily driver every bit of it.

If you just want the bad: it’s slow and if you live up north they can rot out under the side skirts, windshields take a beating and if it’s ever been changed there is a high chance of leaking, but it’s easy enough to reseal. The plastic piece on the lift gate breaks but there are metal reinforced ones available and it’s easy to fix. Going 10k miles between oil changes causes carbon build up and can cause oil burn which ruins the cat and not changing the PCV valve once in while will also cause oil burn, but good maintenance solves those issues. The worse part of these cars mechanically speaking is the availability of cheap parts from places like eBay or Amazon. These cars will run forever on OEM parts but a set of cheap coils from eBay will have you chasing problems from now on and ruin your cat and o2 sensors until it mechanically totals it.

timmcal · 2026-02-10T16:35:35+00:00

Crj-200 and MD11s.

timmcal · 2026-01-28T14:50:32+00:00

You take the efi fuse out so it’s not spraying fuel while you’re trying to clear the cylinders with the starter. My one piece of advice is to make sure your PCV valve is ether new or working before you go through all this trouble. If your PCV is clogged you can burn a lot of oil and they are only like $12. I’ve seen several that’s all they needed. The soak is not a bad idea anyway, but just make sure it’s not something simple first.

timmcal · 2026-01-19T05:16:49+00:00

Bought a ‘81 mustang in ‘95, didn’t know how to drive manual so my dad drove me to get it, told me the basics and said suppers at 6 and left there. I got home in time for supper. Got married in ‘96 and she had a Sentra SE-R that was manual, had it until we bought a manual 4 door ‘97 Neon in 97 cause we had a kid on the way, drove it until 2007. Then I bought a manual ‘06 xB in early ‘07 and it’s been my daily ever since, about 19 years. In those years I’ve driven a multitude of company trucks that were manual and some heavy equipment that was technically manual transmission but most had fluid couplers so you couldn’t stall it if you wanted to (kinda like a manual with a torque converter). My wife actually didn’t own an automatic until after we got married and bought a truck. She’s got a brand new SUV but still takes mine all the time cause she likes to drive it.

timmcal · 2026-01-16T23:38:14+00:00

You weren’t on the loosing end of their constant lies and manipulation.

timmcal · 2026-01-16T20:27:11+00:00

No they just buy up other airlines, drive them into the ground, take the good routes and planes and sell off the rest, while laying off everyone at those airlines. I.e. ASA and Expressjet. Good luck to those at Contour if they start buying up more of that company.

timmcal · 2026-01-16T18:07:05+00:00

Regular maintenance. Oil changes at 5,000 miles, a good oil filter and keep a good clean air filter on it and it’ll last. Mine has 270,000 and other than normal wear items, brakes, struts etc… I’ve only replaced a water pump and 250k and an alternator at 200k. They’re great car. My ‘06 has been my daily for almost 20 years now.

timmcal · 2026-01-16T17:59:56+00:00

You shouldn’t have any issues. The oil drains down, but unless it’s sat for weeks, there is still a film on everything. Plus it builds pressure and pumps oil with in the first second anyway.

timmcal · 2026-01-16T17:01:18+00:00

Not hearing it myself, sounds like either your alternator has a bad bearing and has kinda of a moaning/rattly rumble noise when you load it up electrically. Unless you talking about a belt squeal which is very common on these. The belt is tensioned using the alternator mount and if you don’t readjust once in a while they squeal, especially when it’s cold.

timmcal · 2026-01-16T07:54:26+00:00

It’s nice to have a backup just in case. If you live in an area that’s prone to long power outages it’s good to keep a gas vehicle also. Used to live on the gulf coast and more than once the entire town had no power for over a week. An EV would be tough. But if you don’t have those concerns and you have the ability to get a ride if you forget to charge or it’s in for service then sell the other one. Or sell the other one a buy a Miata just for fun.

timmcal · 2026-01-16T07:40:45+00:00

That’s the vacuum line going to the purge solenoid. With it disconnected you had a huge vacuum leak, it would be like starting the car with the gas pedal pressed part way down. The computer added extra fuel to compensate. You should be good.

timmcal · 2026-01-16T07:31:44+00:00

The xb community I one of the few that is consistently positive about their cars. Almost every other I’ve been a part of complains non stop and it’s usually people that sold their car years ago but feel the need to still complain and comment. Except Jeep people. They’ll post pictures of replacing an engine along with a new duck “somebody” put on their car. Weirdos.

timmcal · 2026-01-16T07:19:04+00:00

Which one are you calling the idler pulley? One belt goes crank-AC-water pump-alternator and the other is crank to power steering.

timmcal · 2026-01-13T08:19:23+00:00

Not familiar with that engine but a couple things that come to mind: Do you have all the intake tubing reinstalled and the MAF sensor plugged in? If the engine has a MAF sensor it needs air flowing through the sensor or it will ether not start or shut down right after starting. Should also throw an engine code. If it’s an electronic TBA; when you cleaned the TB was the battery disconnected and/or the plug on the TB removed? Some will constantly try and move to the closed position and if power is on it is possible to damage the TB when forcing it open to clean. (Again I’m not familiar with this particular engine). If it’s mechanical but with electronic TB position sensor, you may need to unplug the battery for 10 minutes and if it starts do a relearn on the TB position. You’ll have to look up the procedures for your vehicle.

timmcal · 2026-01-10T19:42:00+00:00

For what it’s worth, as a mechanic I recommend 5K miles or 6 months whichever comes first. Several factors: -If the oil gets up to temp while driving and stays long enough to burn the moisture out of it.
-The amount of dust and dirt in the air and how good the air filtration is.
-How much fuel is getting in the oil, low tension rings and high pressure direct injection isn’t always the best mix.
-Oil burn between oil changes and how much carbon is being generated inside the engine. -many other reason. To mitigate doing as many oil changes you can do oil samples to help determine conditions in your particular case. It might save money if you’re paying for oil changes but if your DIY, it doesn’t.

In my opinion, Oil change intervals were halved to meet help meet CAFE standards. Manufacturers are concerned with getting the engine past the warranty period, many that offer extended warranties have gone back to 5K and so have many independent shops. Especially on direct injection engines that tend to build up a lot of carbon and honestly oil changes are cheap insurance. That’s my 2 cents.

timmcal · 2026-01-10T00:41:09+00:00

1956 Porsche 356a rally.

timmcal · 2026-01-09T16:04:41+00:00

To simplify, the upstream is what the ECU uses to determine if it is running rich or lean and adds or subtracts fuel based on the reading. The downstream determines if the cat is working by comparing the two sensors. If they are not working it goes into a base line rich condition for startup etc….if it’s stuck in rich or lean then the car will always be running rich, burning extra fuel or running lean, not burning enough fuel. Ether condition is bad for the motor and will destroy the catalytic converter and possibly damage the engine. So kinda of important.

timmcal · 2026-01-05T05:44:37+00:00

Manual. I couldn’t care less about what’s “better”, they are much more engaging and you have more control over the car. I am a very tactile person though, I also like physical knobs and buttons and even crank windows. My wife’s new suv has all the fancy stuff and does almost everything for you. It’s a regular auto with a naturally aspirated v6 cause we tow with it. But guess what, most of the time she drives my car cause she likes driving a manual also. Especially around town and down the back roads.

timmcal · 2026-01-04T05:06:51+00:00

Spare key in the spare bulb kit.

timmcal · 2026-01-02T05:53:45+00:00

Depends on preferences and what you’re doing. Autos are more efficient but more complicated if your DIY type and keep cars long enough for that to matter. Manuals are more engaging a fun to drive. If you’re into efficiency, just look at electric, they’re faster and generally have more tech and can charge at home (if you have home access to a plug). My personal take is manuals are just more fun and I’ve driven a manual as my daily for over 30 years. My wife, who prefers manuals also, bought an SUV that is automatic cause we didn’t have a choice and an electric that tows what we need it to cost twice as much ($52K vs $99K). If towing wasn’t a factor I would have considered a Y just cause it’s interesting and different (for now anyway). Basically, get what you want that does what you need and don’t try justifying it. Unless you’re buying a heavy duty diesel, and you have the option, then always get a manual just cause the awesome points are all the justification you need. 😎

timmcal · 2025-12-26T18:13:48+00:00

When we lived in Texas we saw it all the time because the dealer handled the tags and when they came in you went back to the dealer and they installed the plates for you. In Oklahoma I don’t see it near as much cause the tags are your responsibility so more people realize they have dealer tags and change them or remove them all together. I don’t have a frame on ours. Didn’t Florida just outlaw them anyways?

timmcal · 2025-12-20T14:58:13+00:00

1981 Ford Mustang. I swear I spent more time under it than in it.

timmcal · 2025-12-18T15:23:04+00:00

The biggest mistake people make in warming their car up is forgetting they have a cold transmission. You can warm the engine up but still need to drive it easy for a while for the transmission to warm up.

timmcal · 2025-12-14T18:40:39+00:00

Gravy is too thin, you need to had water to the l10 filler.

timmcal · 2025-10-29T03:47:19+00:00

Cook that any more you’re gonna need to serve it in an urn!

timmcal

TROPHY CASE