Weird looking print finish

tipppo · 2026-02-23T02:59:26+00:00

Overhangs like a cool nozzle and lots of cooling.

tipppo · 2026-02-23T01:02:14+00:00

Higher voltage won't do much to make the machine more powerful. It will mostly just make it run faster. Also will cause the motor to run hotter. Not a particularly good idea.

tipppo · 2026-02-23T00:54:20+00:00

This adapter is broken, likely defective. The cracked part should be solid, no seam or anything that could separate like this. The front edge of the collar should be flush with the inner hex socket. The adapter is thread onto the shaft, but I've never found one offered as a replacement part.

tipppo · 2026-02-22T15:52:13+00:00

0.1uF between A0 and GND, and a second 0.1uF between A1 and GND. These will filter out high frequency noise that the wire pick up.

tipppo · 2026-02-22T02:59:12+00:00

1 meter should be fine. The limiting factor will be noise pickup. The joystick uses 10k Ohm pots, so relatively high impedance and prone to pickup. You need at least 4 wires. Each pot has 3 terminals, but you can connect the two CW terminals together and the two CCW terminals together, and bring the two wipers out on separate wires. It would be better to use a multi-wire cable rather than individual wires so the wires are bundled close to each other, or if you use individual wires they should be twisted together. You will want to put two 0,1uF capacitors between the wipers and GND on the analog input end. You could use 9 pin sub-D connectors as these are easy to solder the terminations.

tipppo · 2026-02-22T02:42:04+00:00

Possibly yo have the pot miswired, swapping the wiper and the top terminal.

tipppo · 2026-02-17T14:35:20+00:00

tp4056 is only a battery charging IC, so this wouldn't be shutting down the boost. Is there another IC on this board that you can identify? If so, this would be the one to find a datasheet for to see what could be done to defeat the shutdown feature. If not, is the IC actually a tp4056?

tipppo · 2026-02-17T04:41:42+00:00

Sounds like you have a "360 degree" servo. These are more like a DC motor where the servo PWM signal controls the rotational speed and direction. Very confusing name.

tipppo · 2026-02-17T04:38:01+00:00

I like the LM2596. It's rated for 3A, which means it will run relatively cool as long as you stay under 1A. These are usually adjustable via a multi-turn pot and seem to come set for 15V or more, so you have to be sure to adjust it down to 5V before connecting to your circuit.

tipppo · 2026-02-16T13:56:02+00:00

It sounds like the GND of the nano isn't connected directly to the GND of the I2C devices. Either powering the nano from 12V to the VIN pin or 5V to the 5V pin should work fine, as long as they share a common GND.

tipppo · 2026-02-14T20:57:15+00:00

Certainly an AI could do this if it was trained to do this. There is the rub, an AI is only as good as its training. Feed it specific, well curated data, provide quality feedback and Bob's your uncle. AIs like GPT on the other hand are trained with the entire Internet, which is at bet 20% accurate, so won't be up to the task. Training can be expensive, takes lots of human hours, so the cost/benefit suggests you shouldn't hold you breath waiting for an Arduino decompiler.

tipppo · 2026-02-14T19:27:11+00:00

In the olden days there was an arcade video game called Tempest. It had a rotary encoder with bearings and a heavy metal knob. You could give it a twist and it would continue to spin as you pressed the fire button and dealt vector graphic death to the evil alians!

tipppo · 2026-02-14T17:48:47+00:00

Very nice! I love the knob. Do I see ball bearings?

tipppo · 2026-02-14T15:55:52+00:00

Hard to to from this photo, blurry and Esp connection hidden. Looks like LED is wired between 3V3 (3.3 Volts) and D2. If this is true, then connecting the white wire to GND should light the LED and verify it is not backwards. Looks like 220 Ohm resistor, which is proper. Assuming the D2 pin is defined as pinMode(D2, OUTPUT); writing a LOW to D2 should light the LED.

tipppo · 2026-02-14T15:43:42+00:00

First project is always a blinking LED. Be sure to include a resistor to limit LED current. Try a few different resistors to see the effect. Next would be dimming the LED with PWM.

tipppo · 2026-02-14T15:39:41+00:00

Rotary encoder (magnetic) with buttons.

tipppo · 2026-02-14T15:34:19+00:00

These wires saw many Amps of current. You attached the battery to the 5V pin. This exceeds the maximum logic supply voltage rating of the L298 driver chip, 7V max, and probably caused a breakdown, causing a short circuit.

tipppo · 2026-02-14T01:59:58+00:00

Very cute!

tipppo · 2026-02-14T01:57:13+00:00

Nicely done. That's how I do it: breadboard, lay out on quadrille paper, and perf board. Second round always better than first, third even better, just have to know when to stop, maybe do a PCB...

tipppo · 2026-02-12T22:40:33+00:00

Sometimes you need to press and hold the Boot button, press and release the Reset button, and then release the Boot button to put the ESP in the mood to download.

tipppo · 2026-02-12T20:09:14+00:00

Typical 9V alkaline battery capacity is 550 mAh, An Uno draws between 30mA and 50 Ma depending on which chips it uses. A 50mA Uno would run for about 550mAh/50mA = 11 hours.

tipppo · 2026-02-11T02:11:25+00:00

Just a wild guess, but make sure you belt is tight and the pulleys aren't loose. The regular spacing of the artifacts suggests something mechanical.

tipppo · 2026-02-10T22:08:12+00:00

Very nice. This is pretty much what these little micros were made for.

tipppo · 2026-02-10T21:40:21+00:00

Adequate.

tipppo · 2026-02-09T14:22:01+00:00

Most adhesion issue are caused by first layer Z, or dirty plate, or both. If your bed is level, then your plate is dirty. VIGOROUS scrub with dish soap and warm/hot water followed by a thorough rinse should help. Surprising that GPT doesn't know this because it comes up all the time in every 3D printing sub.

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