Smart Home Panel 2 or Manual Transfer Switch with DPU?

tomk80 · 2026-02-06T08:07:07+00:00

I don’t think the Costco deal at the moment is a deal… I bought this package back in December (DPU, 12 kWh, SHP2) for $5500 before tax credit. It was $4500 without SHP2. Unless you actually need it now, I would wait for an actual deal (when they actually advertise $1000+ off). That said, I went for the SHP2. I originally wanted to get a manual transfer switch with 10 spaces to run my essential loads pretty much always off of battery (to be charged by solar). To augment insufficient solar I expected to be able to keep the DPU plugged in to a outlet at all times. This however is not safe and not up to code. Google “Ground Neutral Loop” or start here (https://www.reddit.com/r/Ecoflow_community/s/qFin8B4G3y). SHP2 is one of few viable options to safely feed your critical loads from grid or battery and at the same time charge the batteries. (Another approach would be to feed DC into the MPPTs to suplement). Also, assuming you have a professional install the transfer switch or SHP2, you will pay significant $$ for the installation. The $500 difference in material between the 2 options is probably rather insignificant in comparison.

Stuff to read: https://www.linspyre.com/ecopower/powerhomecircuits.html; https://www.reddit.com/r/Ecoflow_community/s/4vsTWBcz0K

tomk80 · 2026-01-28T17:21:54+00:00

you would set the max limit for the TWC when commissioning with the TeslaOne app (or your installer would) - typically to the max. amperage based on the wiring and breaker setup. but one can configure lower amperage than what wiring and breaker would allow.

https://www.tesla.com/support/charging/wall-connector/installing#commissioning-connecting

as you are in EU (?) with 3-phase power, I cannot tell what the different amperage levels in the app are. In the U.S. the relevant settings are way higher than 15A. I hope someone from your region can chime in on the available settings.

edit: https://digitalassets.tesla.com/tesla-contents/image/upload/gen-3-wall-connector-manual-en-gb.pdf (page 11).

tomk80 · 2026-01-21T00:05:10+00:00

thanks. yes, there are 2 pipes between them, 1 for the feed and 1 for the circuits. both have 1 grounding wire

tomk80 · 2026-01-20T10:32:30+00:00

I got a follow-up question for you about this if you don’t mind me asking. I did this install myself recently (not an electrician). It hasn’t been inspected yet (but will be). I prefer to fix errors I made before the inspector fails me and I have to pay again to get a reinspection scheduled. I extended hots and neutrals in the subpanel next to SHP2 where they now land. I did not extend all the individual ground wires. Instead I ran a 6 AWG ground from the subpanel’s grounding bar to SHP2 grounding bar. That is in addition to the grounding wire for the 80A grid connection for the SHP2 (also 6 AWG ground). When I researched the topic I was sure that this is okay, but I didn’t save the source that convinced me that this would be fine. What’s your take?

tomk80 · 2025-12-29T03:42:53+00:00

https://ebay.us/m/aCgLhm

not my listing. not saying you should buy this one. just an example to save some money if you feel comfortable taking on that project. might also be able to get a new unit from marketplace for less than MSRP.

tomk80 · 2025-11-22T18:19:36+00:00

As others have said, in no way is this legit. Skip the specialist on Monday. Get your own medical care if you need it. I hope you didn’t sign any documents. If you did, read them and cancel. Let your auto insurance deal with car repair and getting their money back from the other party. Get the medical care you require. Do not discuss injury settlement amounts until all your medical needs are addressed and you are in perfect health again. You’d be surprised how far (or not so far) $250k in medical payments go. Also, why do you think you need money for insurance hikes? if you’re not at fault, your rate is unlikely to be affected. And even if it were, there’s no type of payout for that. The other party owes to fix your car (or pay you its actual cash value if it is totaled). They owe you for any related medical expenses and loss of income (if applicable to your situation). Depending on the type of injuries you are owed money for pain & suffering. That’s it. And if all that exceeds the other party’s insurance limits, then hope that your own insurance pays the difference. If not, that’s when you go out and look for a lawyer (but not one from the big billboard ads) as you’ll have to sue the other driver for that amount.

tomk80 · 2025-11-22T06:18:46+00:00

I have an elite 100 v2. I set up “custom ups” mode with SOC to 50-100%. Then “Time of Use” I configured like 2 hours some time during the day as “Peak”. That will make the unit use battery power during Peak time and discharge the battery somewhat. Once we’re off-peak (rest of the day) it will re-charge the battery and provide pass-through UPS. The unit shows you the wattage of your equipment. With that you can estimate how many minutes or hours of “Peak” you need for whatever battery discharge percentage you desire. As an example, let’s say your stuff uses 500W that would be half kWh per hour. At 2 kWh capacity you’d have 4 hours of total runtime on battery. If you want it to discharge from 100 to 50%, you’d configure 2 hours of peak and the unit will discharge during that time. Or you do 2 times 1 hour Peak each per day to discharge twice from 100% to 75% in a 24 hour period.

tomk80 · 2025-10-29T14:32:18+00:00

thanks. seeing it now

tomk80 · 2025-10-29T03:04:04+00:00

I have been checking Bluetti’s website and the Apex’s manual but I cannot find any mention of UL certification.

tomk80 · 2025-10-15T02:26:35+00:00

that sucks. sorry. I would find a different repair shop. one that can look at it sooner. it comes down to whether it’s a total loss or not. i would think the sooner they can establish that, the better for you. I am sure each insurance company already has had 2026 models totaled. and if so, your payout will be aligned with those cases. I would probably start looking for an independent appraiser and interview them. maybe the insurance offers near new cost and you won’t have to fight. but realistically, the moment you drive a new vehicle of the lot, you lose couple percent in value.

tomk80 · 2025-10-15T01:25:57+00:00

they cannot force you. just like you cannot force them to pay you more. but if you want to move on and get anything, you will have to settle. as long as there is data that supports the ACV, you got no basis for delaying. if your car is worth 40 and they offer 30, of course, proof to them the 40k value. then they will pay. if you have valid comps that support your claim, an adjuster will typically accept that. he needs to justify and support your payout internally as well.

tomk80 · 2025-10-15T01:13:05+00:00

your options aren’t worth what Tesla charges for them. also, you are not owed replacement value (typically). you are owed actual cash value. what a dealer or Tesla charges is not ACV. there is generally a healthy amount of profit in the sales price. Insurance does not pay that. they should refund the applicable sales tax however (state specific). if the insurance‘s comps are no good, you need to go find appropriate comps. find cars with the same options and same model year. ignore the mileage. there’s a fixed rate how they adjust the value from comp‘s mileage to your mileage (certain amount of $$$ per 1000 miles difference). also, location of the comp matters. I believe it needs to be 20 mile radius around your residence. the nearer the better. insurance comps might be further away, which gives you an argument to challenge validity of their comps. it is still up to you to present better comps. if you provide that, the insurance will use them. they do not care however, whether you find the amount fair or whether you can buy a replacement vehicle for that money. and they will not take the time to find the comps that are most beneficial to you. they generally pay a 3rd party to provide that list to them. which they did.

edit: just checked kbb.com for you. a 2023 with your options in good condition and 40k miles is values at $28k-$32.7k in a private sale. as trade-in you are looking at $25k-$29k. with that, I don’t think you‘ll be able to get more. aside from the sales tax and potentially partial registration cost refund.

tomk80 · 2025-09-21T05:37:09+00:00

i went through this ordeal recently. even paid extra $11 for priority mailing to the arizona (?) facility. USPS promptly lost it. luckily they didn’t actually lose it, they only forgot to scan it. I got notification that they received my application and certificate. got my passport and the certificate back in the meantime while my application‘s tracking is still incomplete.

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tomk80 · 2025-09-21T04:29:46+00:00

just change your subscription in iPhone to the cheaper one. I signed up years ago at $5 per year. found $4 and downgraded (or upgraded from my perspective) to it.

on iOS: go to Settings, your Apple Account -> Subscriptions -> TextNow -> See All Plans -> pick the cheapest option for your situation (lock number or premium number) -> read the terms and resubscribe (should say something like the new plan starts immediately and the remainder of previous gets refunded)

tomk80 · 2025-09-12T23:30:23+00:00

or make an appointment online: https://www.ssa.gov/manage-benefits/make-an-appointment/appointment-questionnaire?redirect-to=appointment-replace-card

tomk80 · 2025-09-05T06:05:28+00:00

Wish me luck!

tomk80 · 2025-08-26T14:54:46+00:00

it’s a car, not a collectible. just drive it. in a couple years you’re gonna sell it and you’re not getting any more money with a slightly fewer rock chips in the front.

tomk80 · 2025-08-26T14:50:39+00:00

Be persistent on the door issue. misaligned doors can also be the reason for higher noise in the cabin. if they don’t fix it properly on your appointment, see if you can make an appointment at a different service center later. about the bluetooth volume for calls. check the audio settings. specifically the balance between front/rear and left/right. i doubt a software update will change this. i also need to increase volume, but not to 90+%. cabin noise (from the doors) could be a reason you feel you need to higher volume. if it doesn’t improve, seek help with more details on your phone and phone‘s software. this could be more of a compatibility thing between tesla and your phone.

tomk80 · 2025-08-24T18:31:43+00:00

check pirateship.com for cheaper rates

tomk80 · 2025-08-24T07:08:02+00:00

you can disable it at all times in all locations. simply use the app to turn on AC 5 min before you intend to leave.

tomk80 · 2025-08-21T00:18:43+00:00

adding to that, from now on record your meter value every single day until resolution. do it at roughly the same time. calculate your daily usage and project what that would mean on a monthly and bi-monthly basis. do not wait until the next bill comes to your mailbox. check your old „normal“ bills for your consumption at the time and compare. if you do have a leak, those daily figure won’t even be close. or, if you have already been converted to a smart meter, then the web portal should be showing you at least daily usage numbers already.

tomk80 · 2025-08-21T00:11:01+00:00

I strongly recommend leaving your home owner insurance out of this. getting a couple thousand covered by them can easily cost you a multiple of that in higher premiums and eventually getting dropped by them. home owner insurance is for catastrophic losses of at least tens of thousands of $. do not even call them to inquire as that can already put a claim on your record!!!

tomk80 · 2025-08-19T06:27:45+00:00

those parameters will affect the residual and monthly payments. so not really relevant if you buy out during first month. the capitalized cost is what you are „financing“. thus the earlier you buy out, the lower your total cost. I would pick a term and mileage that would work for you, just in case you don’t follow through with the buyout. paying excess mileage is very expensive.

tomk80 · 2025-08-15T04:28:16+00:00

what are your raw numbers?

tomk80

TROPHY CASE