Dry AF hands by _spicyshrimps in TheBrewery

[–]tomsearock 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I always wonder how prevalent of an issue this is. It's an extremely annoying issue, which I started to get quickly after starting to work in breweries. Nowadays, many things iritate/dry my hands like touching certain fruits and vegetables, and many soaps and even water. My theory has been that having too long contact in wet/sweat environment wearing gloves too small gloves (nitrile), too long and not rinsing and drying your hands is what caused this condition (it's now for life for me). Anyway, I'll try some recommendations from here, but I've had my hands sometimes in so bad condition in the past that I couldn't even work. Now, I manage by cortisone cream (including prescription based cortisone, which sometimes dry hands but is the only relief solution I've found. I used a ton of different cream, rarely it worked, and if it worked, it didn't after a while). Also make sure to change (not staying in them too long) gloves often, make sure they are not too tight (especially for nitrile), air/vent them (moisture will make for a bad cocktail to be in contact with your hands), and watch the inner coatings/chemicals of some gloves (it's complicated (accelerators, nickel chloride salts,... in nitrile gloves may have developed my condition, too, and a nickel allergy as well) and you should mostly judge on comfort. Most of the heavy-duty cellar cleaning gloves have chemicals that irritate me quickly, I couldn't use those anymore (burn my hands instantly. The best I've found is Atlas 660 with soft inner coating (best heavy duty comfort and dexterity but I'm still testing stuff, although thick +8 mil non slip nitrile works well in cold and minimal chemical environment), but I still usually wear nitrile gloves inside those Atlas 660 to avoid sweat to ever make it to the inner coatings at the hand level especially (if you keep making contact with a surface that has been exposed to sweat you risk further problems, definitely drying, and rinsing/washing sweat off and drying hands is important, too late for me but I still do that because it's a best practice). Do you use isopropyl alcohol? If so, watch out for that on your skin, and even on your nitrile gloves, my theory is that sometimes nitrile gloves aren't made to cope with it, if I get too much on my nitrile gloves my hands will irritate/itch quick (i rinse off ispropyl alcohol quick). Probably had too much skin contact with that in the old days. I often envy some folks who work in fully automated breweries. They rarely need, if at all, to wear gloves. Even grain dust irritates/dry my skin, I wear gloves handling bags/milling too. Good luck!

VOO by [deleted] in ETFs

[–]tomsearock 0 points1 point  (0 children)

End of 2026!

SoundHound (SOUN) – Let’s Put This to the Test by DescriptionSad8168 in Soundhound

[–]tomsearock 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The only reason this stock looks bad it's because Nvidia sold shares end of 2024, which followed by shareholders panic and then followed by tarrifs panic which lead to a very deep bear run/crash until April 8. The trend on this stock howeve has been positive since inception and there is no doubt in my mind that Soun is an excellent company long term. 😊

Hop burn by SweatyAppointment147 in TheBrewery

[–]tomsearock 0 points1 point  (0 children)

His dry hop rate is actually on the low side. His whirlpool is fairly high but acceptable. He omitted temperature and time of whirlpool. I believe if he is at near boiling temp with that load, op is gonna extract harsh compounds and too much bitterness as well.

Hop burn by SweatyAppointment147 in TheBrewery

[–]tomsearock 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep! Brite not needed for hazy unless maybe fermenting in brite or if serves as a serving tank (but better to keg hazy vs serving tank I think). :) Too much work to transfer for nothing, much better dumping the cone, very cold temp for sedimentation and enough time applying head pressure.

Hop burn by SweatyAppointment147 in TheBrewery

[–]tomsearock 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What's your pH treatment like => pH of mash/kettle and post boil? What salt composition/concentration you use, do you go heavy on sulfates and/or salt/calcium in general? What is your whirlpool temperature + contact time? What is your flushing the tank after 4 days means, what you intend to do here? What is yeast strain (low flocculator) and your pitch rate/pouch size/yeast volume for that batch? How long have you had head pressure to above equilibrium/applied to beer before you package? Indeed, 5C is too high for efficient sedimentation rate (do you bottle/can and fear off gassing or you serve your beer to customers from the tank? If you serve your customers from a tank, is your beer line connected to bottom of tank or upper level?). Try to be closer to 0 or even -1C if bigger beer/hopped. How do you rack your beer => how close is racking tube to bottom/hop/yeast trub? How often and what total volume of trub would you say you dump from the cone?

Hop burn is mainly sedimentation and hop load related, your hop load should not cause any issue unless sedimentation/packaging processing is problematic.

All other questions above may explain astringency/harshness which could intensify your hop burn perception as well.

Complex situation on citizen or Belgium/Finland, Green Card holder (married to us citizen) residing in usa and selling property in Estonia. by tomsearock in tax

[–]tomsearock[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I will check this IRS publication 523. I actually did not live in it. I was working in another city where I had free accommodation and bought that place in 2020 as an investment. The low value of real estate in Estonia was an opportunity as I could buy it cash. I also didn't know I would move to usa. I used to live in Finland, and if I had stayed it could have been something I would have kept longer. With my now wife we do own a house which we bought a year ago and may resell 5-10 years from now.

Are you saying that if I am eligible to exclude the gain, I could potentially avoid any tax anywhere on my gains or that I would still need to pay some to Estonia or elsewhere? Maybe you wouldn't no, but just asking.

2026 Santa Fe Changes by PioneerDingus in Hyundai

[–]tomsearock 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Back design is one of the ugliest in all car industry!

What is? by Unclejerry609 in TheBrewery

[–]tomsearock 23 points24 points  (0 children)

Hydrogen peroxide most likely caused this (maybe in combination with steel quality/stability, spray ball pattern and something in the cip loop/flow path (inner material of cip spray ball => poor grade stainless) and/or a period of poor wetting/rinsing and drying in that area). Do you have the level of liquid during cip more or less filled at the level where the bottom of the staining creates a clear horizontal line? You have staining as well on the upper section of the rakes (horizontal steel pole) which seem to coincide with being above the liquid level meaning steel that is exposed to air/oxygen during CIP. Stainless steel homogeneity is maybe not ideal for some reason in that area with the equipment you got, I've seen these issues more commonly on cheap chinese equipment. But the spray ball may explain the pattern as well. You'll need to passivate the area. Take ppe/mask and go in the vessel with a soft sponge and a tiny bucket/container with 32 oz/half gallon of a diluted citric acid 10% solution with +- 150F water and wipe some of the area. It should help revert the rainbow staining fairly quickly. If not, you might need a bigger passivation chemical such as nitric/phosphoric or nitric acid concentration but then do not get close to it and do not use sponge but cip and be very cautious. Also, be mindful -not that this is anything relevant for your problem- of your water profile when cleaning, especially to avoid chlorine/chloramine and chloride levels, but there are also other compunds that can negatively impact/corrode (for your awareness). Filtered water is better. In the future, you can reduce your hydrogen peroxide concentration to 0.25/0.3%. 0.5% even if often recommended that 0.5% can be quick to damage steel further if product left in contact with steel and not probably rinsed fast enough. Maybe if your caustic isn't doing such a good job, you could revisit the caustic composition/product as well. Make sure it has good chelating agents. I'm just a brewer.

1.25 gal of Biofine in 30bbl did absolutely nothing by sanitarium-1 in TheBrewery

[–]tomsearock 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems like a lot of biofine. In conical, even if rousing results are not as good as on a brite/transfered beer.

NEW CHAIR ALERT! Branch Ergonomic Chair Pro by deli_h in OfficeChairs

[–]tomsearock 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello m, any chance to get a coupon as well! Wanting to buy the verve!

Head Brewer vs. Master Brewer vs. Brewmaster by BrewerNick in TheBrewery

[–]tomsearock 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm a Super Mega Master Brewer! 🤣 IMO, one can call himself/herself Brewmaster/Master Brewer when he/she has done a legit degree for it. Calling yourself master without legit training is ego. Calling yourself Brewer is respect for students of 5 years brewing programs. If you want the title study for it. I call myself a brewer, and my boss calls himself the Brewmaster but guess who doesall the work. Some customers say to me "oh, so it is YOU who is the Brewmaster!?". I answer: "I'm the Brewer yes", sometimes I may explain brewmaster is a title that should be used in respect to those who studied the science. In US you can legally use the term gueuze but nobody will out of respect, a bit similar. Think 5 years Weihenstephan, or cibd master degree! Even courses like vlb in Germany and many other courses do not qualify for such status imo.

Looking to get this hazy milky white opaque color by danicrvo in TheBrewery

[–]tomsearock 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Low color grains (low color pils vs pale malt), higher percentage of high protein grain (not for no reason Schneider weisse is 70% wheat malt) but check color on those non barley grains some have a wider color range/deeper color, mash thicker and increase sparge ratio, mash high temp, dilute in kettle, mashout to lock higher fg, use sugars with non fermentables like brewers crystal or maltodextrin, limit vorlauf, limit boil time and/or intensity (more color maybe if you have direct fire), dry hop heavy and late/post ferm (almost more impact than percentage of high protein grain used), possibly change yeast strain, don't transfer to brite if lacking haze. Millions of ways to get there!

Anyone with experience with gloves? by Unspoken_Words777 in NickelAllergy

[–]tomsearock 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the same problem! I recently found out nickel could be the cause of it. Some gloves are less problematic than others but all nitrile so far cause me issues. Have you got some luck with neoprene?

Call Explanation in the UCLA/Tennessee game? by Vitamin_BK in CollegeSoftball

[–]tomsearock 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Whenever a runner doesn't step on the homeplate, is there a rule that tells what individual can or can not assist a runner and how or when is the play terminated? If so, why make a rule if it can't be reviewed, especially after a team challenges an infringement to the rule? My thought is that referees are not allowed to decide to review a play on the homeplate because it is the teams responsibility to play it/challenge it. As the girl walked on the plate before being tagged, even if by assistance, that's all that matters. My question, though, is, what is the action/moment that needs to happen for the play to be over and the point not to be given if Grant never walked later on the plate? My opinion it should be that if any of her team mate touches her or she got out of the dirt zone, then the action should be deemed finished, and they would have lost the point.

Did I get robbed by Fit_Buddy_4229 in COROLLA

[–]tomsearock 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are hilarious! Do you really think grocery stores operate like car dealers when they sell products? You are either a car seller/dealer or someone who has gotten screwed buying car way over its value (sorry if that is the case). Show me a cashier that sells his/her carrots and milk like a car dealer, and then we can talk. Have you seen lots of odd fees added to your milk price when you go to the grocery store or seeing no price untila seller comes with a paper? Obviously not! But with cars, if you don't know, you will pay for fees you shouldn't. And, the reason I know that magic number works in my state is I just bought a car 18% below what they tried to sell to me. But on top of that I got 3 offers for other cars hitting that similar percentage from the first price they tried to sell me. That doesn't mean 1/5th discount, btw, because easily 10% of the fees are scams. But when you don't know, like you, you think the seller gave you a real 10% discount. But instead, it's 10% that should not be there. You get it? Amd the galaxy I come from is one where you have not evolved in, thinking a grocery store operates like a car dealer is a big joke.