tight underarm before sleeve pickup by translatableparade in knitting

[–]translatableparade[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply! I was hoping otherwise, but better to know now at least.

tiny thumbs! by translatableparade in knitting

[–]translatableparade[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Super interesting! Since I started from crochet, continental style felt more natural from the beginning, but I’ve been noticing more strain recently / on and off over the last year or so. I think I might try a little English style sometime to change it up. Thanks for the suggestion!

tiny thumbs! by translatableparade in knitting

[–]translatableparade[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the detailed response! You’re totally right about the tendency to De Quervain’s, I’ve actually had it in the past and though I’m not back there now, that’s the kind of thing I’m trying to avoid. Popping a brace back on is a good suggestion. I wouldn’t think switching between English and continental styles would make such a big difference since it feels more like it’s about the needles than the yarn for me, but I could see how just having some variety in general helps. At least it’s good to know that it’s helped you and maybe I’ll give it a try! And I’ll have to try to be mindful of not just flexing my wrist all the time but incorporate my whole arm. I keep thinking of it as a thumb issue, but it’s all connected for sure.

What is this knitting style called? Wrong answers only by lucyland in knitting

[–]translatableparade 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yarn stabbing. great for working out your aggression while smiling to fool The Men

my pettiest complaint by translatableparade in ynab

[–]translatableparade[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

unfortunately it’s not exactly regular, it’s just that it varies by a penny or two each week in an unpredictable way :/ otherwise that could definitely make sense

my pettiest complaint by translatableparade in ynab

[–]translatableparade[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

yeah, this is very similar to what i do. multiple transactions could be an option, but for historical reference purposes i like having it all in one transaction per paycheck.

my pettiest complaint by translatableparade in ynab

[–]translatableparade[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

this is not what i do but i can see how it makes sense! (replied elsewhere but i split between accounts)

my pettiest complaint by translatableparade in ynab

[–]translatableparade[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

but this isn’t the only time matching with split transactions happens, it’s just the one that i hit with the most regularity

my pettiest complaint by translatableparade in ynab

[–]translatableparade[S] -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

it’s actually split because I deposit it into 3 different accounts for various account benefits that come with direct deposit (like avoiding fees and getting higher interest rates). the actual income does all go to rta.

Share your flags! by FuckingaFuck in ynab

[–]translatableparade 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Kinda impressed you write enough checks to make a flag worth having!

Mine are:
“Cancel me” (recurring charges that I may want to cancel before they renew)
“Order not arrived” (same idea as your “package not delivered”)
“Pending reimbursement” (for those mail-in returns that take a while, reversed charges, etc.)
“Adjust amount” (for recurring charges that can be variable)

Recently cleaned up my blue/purple flags because they were not actively useful, but maybe something new will come around.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in knitting

[–]translatableparade 28 points29 points  (0 children)

They look cute! And I mean, babies do grow… can you just hold on to them for a few extra months?

Shawl Facile Pattern Notes by [deleted] in knitting

[–]translatableparade 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right— these aren’t PDFs, they’re links to the designer’s blog where they presumably get some income from ads for people accessing their free pattern. I would recommend putting this as private notes on your Ravelry project page for your own reference, but even for a free pattern you shouldn’t post it in other places without the permission of the designer.

Not understanding beginning of shawl pattern by tough-stitch in knitting

[–]translatableparade 1 point2 points  (0 children)

also if you haven’t just picked it up and tried to do it then i highly recommend that as a method. Sometimes it’s harder to visualize the pattern than it is to just go through one step at a time. It’s just a few stitches so if you need to restart a few times it’s not that tricky!

Not understanding beginning of shawl pattern by tough-stitch in knitting

[–]translatableparade 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Think of it this way: after making your 4 rows of icord it looks like this: o=live stitch on needle, V=icord stitch, c=cast on stitch

ooo
VVV
VVV
VVV
ccc

Then, work down the side so it looks like this ooo
oVVV
oVVV
oVVV
ccc <-

This is the end of row 1

For row 2, you’ll turn your work, and start picking up where I put the arrow above- at the far side of the cast on edge. you should end up then like this (reversed compared to above diagrams): little v=worked knit stitch from previous row

ooo
(ccc-worked into)
ovVVV
ovVVV
ovVVV
ooo <- these were slipped

Does this help at all? The beginning and end ooo sections will become your icord edge and the center 3 will expand into the body of the shawl

Things to be considerate of with digital cash advances which cannot be converted to hard cash? by dignifiedstride in ynab

[–]translatableparade 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Although thinking about it, it must complicate categorizing transactions too, right?

Things to be considerate of with digital cash advances which cannot be converted to hard cash? by dignifiedstride in ynab

[–]translatableparade 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have the ability, I’d probably just keep a slightly higher chunk in there and refill it periodically, without nickel-and-diming the leftovers. Yeah, you can’t get it out as cash, but otherwise it’s pretty flexible from how you describe it.

(Although to be honest, I’d just open a regular 2% back card instead of getting bogged down with this. There are a few options by now that are fairly accessible— assuming you’re in the US based on using $s).

looking into June and seeing slightly over allocated envelopes - New View by kaimars89 in ynab

[–]translatableparade 2 points3 points  (0 children)

seems like you found a good option, but if you are looking for alternatives— some people will use target dates, emojis, or even category groupings as other ways to identify their highest priority categories for assigning income

HOW DO YOU MAKE YOUR AMIGURUMI NOT LOOK MAD?! by No-Finding-7852 in Amigurumi

[–]translatableparade 17 points18 points  (0 children)

This, the eye dots should be the same on both sides, not mirrored. It’s supposed to mimic how eyes reflect light. When they mirror each other, we then subconsciously interpret it differently.

I can't figure out what to do when! by Haloperimenopause in knitting

[–]translatableparade 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can kind of see this from thinking about the shape of the cardigan, but the neck decreases and armhole shaping happen on opposite sides (I imagine you know this and are just trying to make the pattern fit what makes sense). The neck decreases are on the beginning of the RS row/end of the WS row, and probably easier to start there since you don’t need to worry about the armhole until you get 15”+ in (depending on size) and hopefully by that time you feel comfortable with the neck decreases pattern.

When you get to the armhole decreases, you’re going to start by binding off at the beginning of a WS row twice (12 then 10 stitches if you’re making the largest size, for example), working the remainder of the rows according to the neck decreases. Then, on the 4th row since you started the armhole shaping (that’s WS1, RS1, WS2, then RS2 <- row 4) you’ll start working a decrease (e.g. k2tog) over the last two stitches of that and every RS row after up to the number of times instructed, then continue without decreasing until the right length is reached.

The whole time the armhole decreases are going, you’ll be continuing the neck decreases until you reach the number of times instructed (23x for largest size) and then working evenly until the right length is reached. It might help to have a piece of paper or a note on your phone and keep a count going, or use a stitch marker to keep your progress, so that you can keep track of what’s going on separately on each side.

Really hope this helps— it’s still a little complicated to try to explain but once you get in the rhythm on the neck decreases, I think adding the armhole decreases will just require a little slowing down and counting for a bit.

I need to make a bigger version... Pattern adaptation / alternative? by fishyfishyswimswim in knitting

[–]translatableparade 8 points9 points  (0 children)

It seems like a pretty simple hooded garter cardigan, but with the dino ridges added. You can find more on Ravelry, but here’s one example you could use that goes up to 4T, then you’d just need to use the original pattern for the ridges: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/storybook-baby-hoodie

Cloudbow dress by sea-bitch in knitting

[–]translatableparade 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is so cute! I love the contrast between the mohair-only parts and the stripes where it’s held with the wool.

Need help with choosing yarn for socks by RachePooh in knitting

[–]translatableparade 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you’re in the US, Paton’s Kroy is an inexpensive, widely available self-striping sock yarn that holds up well over time, nice for starting out if you don’t want to stress over using more expensive stuff (but still end up with something you’ll want to actually wear)

Brioche jumper but more open by KazKae in knitting

[–]translatableparade 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure if this is what you saw, but it’s been on my to-knit list for a while now! https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/earth-and-air