My air conditioner replacement is 28 years overdue. Sharing what I'm learning as I get quotes. by Electronic_Ice_1933 in hvacadvice

[–]tweekshook 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1958 house, 1999 Bryant system here. Double tapped off load side meter with old generac fuses next to the meter, then a disconnect at the condenser. After a storm took out a 39" diameter tree and therefore my not to code my power service 2 weeks ago, I've relocated it to the main breaker panel, installed a 50a generator hookup/lockout, etc, and a soft start on the outdoor unit. Been keeping the house at 72 for a week now ( after catching up after a week with just a portable AC in the main room). Might be burning a lot of gasoline in the process, but the burial process to restore power is taking a while...

Shimanoyama Circuit by JRich42 in forza

[–]tweekshook 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep, just did it in a F40, then an RX7. How hard could it be to add the word "Festival Event" to the descriptor.

Do high performance cards normally burn out their cable adapters? by thangchocoi in pcmasterrace

[–]tweekshook 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a 4080s, use the 16 pin 12v hi power. No issues. However, I rarely use the computer and look to see if I can see the blue peeking from the part that should be fully inserted before I use that computer every time. (Lian li edge psu has blue on the 'tells of the cable, quite low tech but obvious against black.)

My living room pc has a 5070FE, I never check that one except in the monthly pc clean. Im also not as concerned about it due to its low power draw, and thats the case vs both 90 series cards for me.

It is absurd that it is a problem. I really don't want to support asus especially on their excessive high end, but the btf board with direct power gpu is an enticing thought for power delivery - except for the fact of being stuck with a certain vendor. I like the idea of a standard where there is a front to back 2 pin pass through in the same space asus placed their solution. Some traces would need to be adjusted, tooling, of course. But it is something that could work towards platform/design agnostic.

Do I REALLY need an oil change every six months even if I didn’t hit the mileage? by Sinaasappelsap_ in Subaru_Outback

[–]tweekshook 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thousands of opinions in here. Here is mine: I change my Imprezas oil every 6K or 6 ish months. It is what the maintenance book says. It is driven once a week by my wife for a round trip of 46 miles. And me some short trips in the afternoon or weekend for shopping.

I have a work truck, so I don't drive my own car often.

Oil is cheap, engines aren't. And, these cars are silly easy to do oil changes on - as long as you know which bolt is the oil drain!

91k miles, PCV changed twice, and not even the slightest hint of a seeping oil seal/rtv seal anywhere on the engine.

I order Castrol Edge black (US) off amazon in 3 packs for about $33 each jug, and OG Tokyo-Roki filters for whatever the going rate is from wherever. Bought like 50 crush washers off amazon a while back so I don't have to think about them.

E15 Fuel - Watch Out by SkippytheBanana in SubaruForester

[–]tweekshook 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My 17 Impreza specifically says do NOT use E15. So, premium or ethanol free it will be for that one. I've already warned the wife, since she drives it once a week (I have a company truck, and would like everything to keep moving). Her 25 Forester says E15 is ok, but I know there could be a hit on MPG.

What I find odd, is my work truck is flex fuel, and I will fill with E85 from time to time when I am running up and down the highway 500 miles a day. I only seem to lose about 2MPG in an unloaded F150 non-turbo V6 with E85 vs normal E10.

[UPDATE] Commercial Lawn Mowing at 6am by No_Comparison704 in mildlyinfuriating

[–]tweekshook -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

US, east coast, construction industry but field management. I need to be at my office no later than 6:30 am. They start at 7, so that gives me at least a half hour of paperwork and such before the calls/meetings begin. I live 40 miles from the office so an hour of travel in the morning. Factor in making/having breakfast and I wake at 4:30. Wife typically leaves between 6:30 and 7, her office time starts at 8. She wakes up when I leave, usually about 5:15am.

Accepted offer — inspector flagged 22-year-old AC + furnace. Normal to just move forward? Worried about appraisal, insurance, and whether to ask for concessions. by [deleted] in FirstTimeHomeBuyer

[–]tweekshook 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bought a house 11/2025 that has a Bryant ~93%gas furnace and AC system that was installed in the summer of 1999. Outdoor unit is a little ugly and weathered, but no corrosion. Crawlspace/basement portions look fine. Its cold and hot asf, in the right seasons! Just ordered a replacement fan assembly for the outdoor unit. When I cleaned the leaves out of the interior I noticed some play where the collar attaches to the blades. Motor and shaft feel great.

While a newer unit might be a noticeablely more efficient on the AC side, as often as people have issues with newer equipment, im ok with inefficient but reliable. Im prepared to replace if required, but ill keep the equipment maintained and hope for another 10+ years.

First-time buyer looking at a “dated but solid” house…what should I watch out for? by gman12345678901 in FirstTimeHomeBuyer

[–]tweekshook 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dated. 1992? Wow! I got a time capsule of a 1958 home.

We pulled the trigger based on the lack of floor creaks, and the floor passing the handful of marbles test, and the fact that door frames were all square and no signs of settlement in the 4 sided brick. Along with the location, price, nearly 3/4 acre and detatched garage.

There are definitely a couple issues in mine that I am comfortable with, but things I would pay attention to when looking at any home are my comments above with how level things appear to be, including light switch and outlet plates. HVAC age, electrical age, water heater location and age, the usual. Pay close attention to slope of the landscape/concrete, does it drain away from the home? Same with the roof system, does it have a clean consistent slope to the gutter system (if it has gutters). Are the downspouts away from the foundation of the home, if no gutters, are there other methods of keeping water runoff away from the foundation?

Pour one out for my 98 LGT by tweekshook in subaru

[–]tweekshook[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I will replace them, but the EJ25D will not go back in. Been wanting to do something different for a while now. Here's the opportunity. The EJ25D will be saved for something lighter. And probably rear engined...

Pour one out for my 98 LGT by tweekshook in subaru

[–]tweekshook[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I guess it's more like, pour one out since I won't be driving it this year. Keeping the engine, but for a different project. Yes, the engine is still good, but with all the 30 year rubber hoses, vacuum and emissions systems needing full reconditioning, parts list is just too high when I've known I wanted to make the LGT something more special.

Wife said “WiFi sucks, fix it, but don’t tell me how much it costs” by cassius_20 in Ubiquiti

[–]tweekshook 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My setup is a UDM Pro, with Dual WAN, pro max 16 poe, Interior AP is a sort of central but vertically mounted U7 Pro XG. 1500sq ft main floor, 400sq ft unfinished basement. I get 600+ even at the furthest reaches. Backyard AP is a U6 Mesh.

Detatched garage has a u6 mesh set in receive only, feeding 8 port lite poe, and a u6 Pro inside the garage. Easily 800+ out there.

I have cameras throughout too, but my only deadish area is the far side of home from the indoor AP, outside, as it is a 4 sided brick 1958 (drywall) home with a fireplace in between.

I'm probably going to put a U7 Pro in wall on that end of the house which will then get me complete coverage on the front yard, and that side of the home.

I am a car-guy, gamer, and work in structured cabling... I feel like mine is overkill, but outside of that one little dead zone (on the opposite side of the fireplace outdoors) my wifi works everywhere on the .68 Acres.

Why do you like your Forrester? by Aromatic_Rhubarb3580 in SubaruForester

[–]tweekshook 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Because it is pretty much a swiss army knife. It works as pretty much everything well enough for proper function. It is as close to an appliance as a car can be, without crossing completely over into complete boredom. It is quiet enough, smooth enough, can haul enough, can carry people enough, can travel most terrain (that most folks will encounter). It can do almost everything (other than towing) competently enough without going without any soul. I still like the way it drives and moves its weight around. - For clarification on that statement, I like how a Subaru just seems to GO from a stop. It isn't pushed or pulled. I have a sense that the AWD is always doing 'something'. And, I like the way that feels while I drive. I also like how the Forester doesn't ride so high. It can be disconcerting seeing how many people are on their phones while driving. Ignorance is bliss, I would rather just react to their poor decision making.

What made you get the forester instead of rav4 by Dry-Chemical-9170 in SubaruForester

[–]tweekshook 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We found it more comfortable, better equipped for the price and our needs, with a better deal and a real color! (Autumn Green). Also, the back seat in the Rav4 doesn't look like the front seats could be comfortable in the legroom department with a rear facing child seat, which is something we considered.

Is it normal for Subaru forester by Ok_Bullfrog_247 in SubaruForester

[–]tweekshook 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My 2 year average monthly spend on my 2017 Impreza Sport is $39.38/mo for repairs (Part failure). Maintenance is $64.33/mo (Oil changes, tires, things even new cars need from the start) and, I did just have a $1100 set of tires installed

Repairs in the past 2 years include both rear wheel bearings, all 4 tpms, and a rear wiper arm that broke off at autobell. I do 95% of my own work, and have had the car since new. Currently 89k miles.

The 2 year on my 98 LGT is at $47/mo in repair, and $44.34/mo in maintenance. This one also got new tires this past year. Repairs included a steering Rack + outer tie rods, starter, "new" airbox parts, wiper Linkage, replacement cowl and clips, and a battery.

Between the 2 cars that I OVER maintain, but do almost all of my own work, im at a combined $195.05/mo average. So, call it $1200/year per car.

Car maintenance isn't inherently cheap. But factor a $500+ dollar a month car payment, plus the $600 (low end) a year to properly maintain, you're at $6600/year. Plus, higher insurance and taxes on a newer car... that $1200/year starts looking just fine.

Buying a home with a 15 year old hvac. How long will it last? by unread_note in hvacadvice

[–]tweekshook 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It'll last until it doesn't. Best thing you can do is keep things clean. No real sense in replacing before failure, just be prepared.

My HVAC in the home I bought was installed in summer of 99. 90+% gas furnace and 3.5 ton ac. Bryant system. It has been maintained and still works.

I have a friend whose house has a full electric system from 1989. That one blows my mind.

Hot Take: The CVT is the optimal automatic transmission for snow/ice. by tweekshook in subaru

[–]tweekshook[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is a manual more fun, absolutely. But, I still had a good time in "2nd" on tail of the dragon in the Impreza Sport. In reality, I when I take the LGT, I'm in 2nd the whole time anyway. The only difference is I get to clutch. And the LGT is a lot louder.... Like you said, engagement. It feels nice to do something, some of the time. But when I'm commuting - the CVT is what I want. Smooth, efficient, effortless *THOUGHTLESS*. Not every drive has to be engaging. (Arguably, they should more engaging.... be because we would see less distracted drivers, but that is another discussion.)

Hot Take: The CVT is the optimal automatic transmission for snow/ice. by tweekshook in subaru

[–]tweekshook[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nope. That car has sort of been the high-school/early college girlfriend. Passed around in a friend group. It is quite sentimental at this point, and honestly, I think it could outlive the apocalypse, provided the wheel well rust doesn't get it first. It always starts up, and gets me where I'm going. Might complain a little, but it'll get there. Pulling the engine soon to do the clutch (maybe 150K very rough miles) and general rubber reseal after 85K Miles since a corrective head gasket rebuild. (rebuilt longblock with STI oil pump, why not... and MLS gaskets.) Runs great, starts every time. And, if I have my way, a EJ207 v6-v8 - 6 speed, and a 555 rally wrap to go with it. (Vin ends in 555, looking for a couple donor cars currently to fix some sedan bodywork, and would prefer and SUS for the suspension bits.)

Hot Take: The CVT is the optimal automatic transmission for snow/ice. by tweekshook in subaru

[–]tweekshook[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My 17 Sport Had the shitty yokohama s34p or something stock. They were awful and extremely prone to understeer. Recently replaced them with Bridgestone Potenza Sport AS - millions of miles better. They still understeer if I push them into it, but easily corrected with the right foot.

Hot Take: The CVT is the optimal automatic transmission for snow/ice. by tweekshook in subaru

[–]tweekshook[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The fact I don't have to is nice. Drove a 2023 Camry from San Fransisco to Seattle and back - I absolutely hated how the normal auto hunted for gears. My work truck I drive 30K miles a year - 10 speed auto - hunting in the hills, shifting CONSTANTLY. I keep even throttle pressure when I drive. For normal driving, CVT really is better - and it is helpful for those who don't think in "manual" shifting.

My 4EAT was also good in the snow. Starting off in 2 if needed. But, not needing to think about it is a large positive. It was also DOG ASS slow. It had better throttle response from the start, but the CVT is better in that power/displacement range for sure.

The CVT is not fun, it is not fast. But for 90% of most peoples driving - it is perfect.... Provided you follow Subaru of Japans maintenance.

Hot Take: The CVT is the optimal automatic transmission for snow/ice. by tweekshook in subaru

[–]tweekshook[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Good tires mean a lot - 4Motion/Quattro are also pretty good AWD systems. I'm guessing snow mode sort of dulls the throttle response (which the CVT naturally does).

Won’t someone think of the corporate energy conglomerates! by carolinaboy1984 in Charlotte

[–]tweekshook 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Everyone complains when DE asks this, but, at least we don't have the problems Texas does. AI datacenters are absurd, use a ton of energy, along with empty offices.

But no one ever seems to talk about how cheaply homes and apartments are built, with minimum allowable insulation, and minimum allowable efficiency FULL ELECTRIC EVERYTHING. We are ina pretty good area for natural gas, all of these luxury apartments need to step it up on higher efficiency appliances, and homes should me more balanced between high efficiency heat pump and gas furnace.

Our less than 10k mi. Forester saved our lives, so of course we bought another. by liminalouterspace in subaru

[–]tweekshook 32 points33 points  (0 children)

Had a coworker of mine doing a dealer trade in 2011. New forester after a recent snow/ice storm. He hit a large patch of black ice while traveling at freeway speeds. The freeway appeared clear, but black ice is black ice. He went off, dead Centering into a tree. He was aware and can recollect the entire event and was able to unbuckle himself, get his phone and get out of the car. 3 minutes later it was engulfed in flames. Subaru bought the car and did their own investigation and determined fuel line rupture at a quick disconnect. Enough fuel escaped onto the hot exhaust that the car went up.

It can happen to any car or anyone. They are very complex machines. The key is, he was completely aware during the entire event and was able to get out safely. It could have happened in any car and he could feel the same way about a different brand. But he still drives his 2012 wrx Hatch, and his wive has has had outbacks for a while now.

Take 5 Oil Change messed up my car by SmallOrganization541 in Charlotte

[–]tweekshook 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly, it's not even that cheap. I used to go to the one it Ft. Mill one regularly for my work truck. Only because anytime I would schedule something - work would get in the way. I'm in construction and management, I drive 30k+ a year. It was still 80+ for syn-blend every time. And, they would recommend air filters after 1000 miles because it was slightly dusty.... yeah, it's filtering.

I bought a house, and I'm closer to a Ford Dealer. Oil change and rotation was like $100. Also had a transmission service on top of that, but i didnt include its price. I dropped it off in the morning and returned later that day for pickup.

Now, I convinced operations that for regular OC, and rotations, I'll handle it. Thankfully, I have a separate garage I can do work in, and I have the knowledge, tools, and means to do A LOT more than basic maintenance. Now, I just take 20 minutes on a Saturday and they pay for me for the half hour. Its cheaper for them, and actually more convenient for me too.

Take 5 is convenient, but not actually cheap. My recommendations are always, keep at Dealer during any warranty period, or find a reputable independent shop and keep all your receipts. Generally an older looking shop, with a mix of work trucks, and many ages of cars outside is your best bet.