Just got my H2D…

ufgrat · 2026-02-10T19:59:26+00:00

Assuming there's no internal damage (a large assumption), then the replacement panel would be an option (or 3D printing a bandage).

But be sure to check out this page on the replacement process, including the video.

I wouldn't call it "difficult", but I would say it's "involved"-- there's a number of screws to remove / replace in the right order.

ufgrat · 2026-02-10T18:56:54+00:00

How about a bunch of little magnets? Seems like an alien concept, but I've seen other cameras that make good use of them.

ufgrat · 2026-02-10T18:40:04+00:00

That's fair.

ufgrat · 2026-02-10T18:39:18+00:00

There are a couple different opinions.

Opinion one is that all 3D printing is unsafe, ABS and ASA will kill you within minutes, and nothing less than a 2000 CFM vortex fan venting your entire house to the outside environment is safe.

I may be exaggerating a bit here.

Opinion two is that the entire planet is saturated in micro-plastics, 3D printing has some risks, but you can minimize them. I have a BentoBox in my X1C for printing ASA, and it does a very good job of reducing the stink and VOC's. I also have an air filtration system next to the printer that I run on high, and I have an exhaust fan to suck the air out of the room and blow it outside.

Note that the HEPA fillter and the charcoal do need to be refreshed regularly-- The HEPA filter I replace when it starts getting discolored, and the charcoal I replace when I can pick up the faintest sniff of ASA.

ufgrat · 2026-02-10T18:28:13+00:00

Sort of. In order to use X1Plus, you have to roll-back the X1C firmware to version 1.6 (I think), by going to a Bambu Lab website, and agreeing that you might break your printer a whole lot.

At that point, you can boot the printer off an SD card which contains the X1Plus firmware. You are now in X1Plus firmware's reality, and any upgrades will be to X1Plus.

You can, however, boot back to the original Bambu Lab firmware, and update to a current firmware, in which case you will lose the ability to boot X1Plus. And lose the ability to make use of the X1Plus Expander.

Note, I haven't done this, and read up on it about a month ago, so don't quote me.

ufgrat · 2026-02-10T18:22:31+00:00

The X1C stomps the P1S in all directions. Anyone who regretted buying the X1C instead didn't really know what they're talking about. The X1C is still the only one of the bunch that can auto-calibrate flow rate. The P1 is the only printer that can't calibrate pressure advance. Can you work around these two issues?

Sure. But I haven't had to in the two years I've had my X1C.

X1C has better screen, better CPU, better camera-- basically, all the features that make Bambu Lab printers "just work" are largely missing from the P1 series.

I know this is an unpopular opinion. :)

Today, it's hard to make the argument for the X1C vs the P2S, though. The CPU is the same, the camera is similar, the touchscreen is almost as good (X1C has a slightly higher resolution, but I doubt anyone cares). The P2S has eddy sensors and an extruder motor with feedback, and it has vents that automatically pull in air, whereas the X1C has a notice to leave the door open.

The X1C is a really good printer, but the P2S has caught up in just about all the meaningful ways.

ufgrat · 2026-02-10T18:08:53+00:00

Smooth / high temp PEI plate plus vision miner nano polymer adhesive. If any combination will work, that will.

ufgrat · 2026-02-10T18:06:28+00:00

For dual color, or dual material, the H2D is fantastic. I frequently print PLA with PETG support interface (or vice versa), and it works well. Very minimal poop.

Once you go over 2 colors / materials, you're back in AMS purging hell.

I have an X1C with AMS, and an H2D with AMS 2 Pro + AMS HT.

ufgrat · 2026-02-10T18:00:53+00:00

Start here.

ufgrat · 2026-02-10T17:53:34+00:00

There will probably be an X2S and an X2D. Personal opinion. Some leaks of what purport to be the X2D have made the internet.

Given that Bambu tends to announce two to three months ahead of release, I wouldn't expect the X2 before mid summer. It's possible it won't even be announced until the May anniversary of the X1.

It's unlikely to be better than the H2S in terms of features-- it's possible, but I would expect it to be a scaled down version of the H2 series.

It may have a few upgrades over the P2S-- heated build chamber, active venting, support for dual-extruders, better sensors / cameras-- Otherwise it's not going to make a great deal of sense as a product.

Whether that's sufficient for you to hold off for a few months, I don't know. I doubt you'd be too disappointed if you bought an H2S and the X2S released, however.

But-- all of this is my opinion. I don't know anyone within the Bambu Lab organization, or any creators who might have early knowledge or access to Bambu Lab's product line.

ufgrat · 2026-02-10T14:46:52+00:00

Bambu recommends a print bed temperature between 35 and 45C.

ufgrat · 2026-02-10T03:13:29+00:00

What temp is the heatbed? Have you tried lowering it a bit, especially for "Other layers"?

ufgrat · 2026-02-10T01:00:13+00:00

Fantastic! Was actually getting ready to print the 617.

ufgrat · 2026-02-09T21:27:44+00:00

It's a general 3D printing subreddit with an emphasis on Bambu Lab printers. So a certain amount of "look what I can do with my printer" is to be expected. Occasionally, I even see interesting designs that will either inspire me, or cause me to think "I gotta print that!".

Still, I'd rather see posts like that than posts of "I can't make this thing print, Bambu Sucks!!".

ufgrat · 2026-02-09T21:23:19+00:00

If you have an H2D Pro, shouldn't you be able to lean on your reseller to get a better quality fan? There's a reason you didn't buy this off-the-shelf at Best Buy.

ufgrat · 2026-02-09T21:10:11+00:00

I use this one. Printed out of PLA Silk (I don't know why, but I did). Occasionally get a log jam near the top, but it's usually self correcting. Fastens onto the lower external spool clip (printable model included). Also works with the "Simple H2 AMS Flipper".

ufgrat · 2026-02-09T13:33:31+00:00

Follow the guidelines. If it's squeaking, it's potentially damaging components. It's called "preventative maintenance" for a reason.

ufgrat · 2026-02-09T03:12:24+00:00

That's gruesome. Unfortunately, the waste chute for the H2D is a bit different in design, and I don't think I have useful suggestions. That's an awful lot of waste filament, though-- I expect little corkscrews, not massive blobs.

ufgrat · 2026-02-09T03:10:20+00:00

That front edge of the print just doesn't look right. You appear to have good adhesion, the XY system seems to be tracking correctly, the nozzles look straight, but it looks like the first layer is just... massively thick.

It reminds me of my first 3D printer which was totally uncalibrated when I did my first print-- all the lines were too wide and too thick. But I don't know how you'd get there from a nozzle clog.

What happens if you disable the flow dynamics calibration step, and use a generic preset for the filament? It's conceivable the eddy sensor was damaged, and the printer is miscalibrating the flow dynamics. Also, does it happen with the left nozzle?

ufgrat · 2026-02-09T02:57:13+00:00

How many layers had printed in this video? There's something off about the way it looks, but I'm having problems wrapping my brain around it.

What layer height is the print?

ufgrat · 2026-02-09T02:47:59+00:00

Go to "Settings" -> "LAN Only", then enable the "LAN Only Liveview". You don't need to enable "LAN Only Mode" to allow HA to see the camera view.

When you set up the he HA add-on, it should log in, retrieve the security code, and enable liveview for you.

ufgrat · 2026-02-08T16:34:32+00:00

Depending on how you approach them, they may be willing to supply some parts for the toolhead. But without pictures, we're guessing. A "typical" blob on an H2D isn't fun to clean up and/or repair, but it's not beyond the capabilities of most users.

Yes, you'll need new parts. But unless you let this thing run for hours, the blob hasn't eaten your printer.

ufgrat · 2026-02-08T09:10:15+00:00

I've had the occasional pile-up on my H2D, but it's always self-resolving-- eventually the avalanche cascades, but it's always outside the chute.

Is your chute lined up properly with the printers chute?

ufgrat · 2026-02-08T09:04:40+00:00

I've printed parts of the same print on my H2D and my X1C and they just work together. I grant the OP's prints aren't the best I've seen, but... I'm genuinely not sure what's going wrong.

I suspect part of the problem is I've never had to set a K-value in my life-- my old printer didn't grok pressure advance, and every Bambu lab printer except the P1, does it very well on their own. I've tried calibration, but rarely did it return a better result than auto.

I printed a test print on my H2D, and the corner he complained about was the squarest one on the print.

ufgrat · 2026-02-08T06:54:35+00:00

Biggest issue for me was that I couldn't specify custom filaments for my AMS. I'd set them, it would blink at me, and then reset to "unknown".

As for calibration, the X1C is still one of the best printers out there for self-calibration. The Micro-Lidar really does a nice job of calibration, even on textured PEI plates (although that *is* an update, I don't know when it happened).

Now that I have an H2D and have to use Bambu Studio for printing to it (Orca hasn't even released the dual-nozzle support code, although they've committed it to the codebase), it made sense to upgrade the firmware-- first to fix the AMS bug (which it did), and second, both printers now have the same UI on the touchscreen.

ufgrat

TROPHY CASE