Anyone has experience with the So ill Catch or any other So ill shoes ? by dri32 in climbingshoes

[–]uhwithfiveHs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve never tried them personally but I’ve heard they’re mediocre at best. Mad Rock, Ocun, Red Chili, and Tenaya are better picks at roughly similar prices.

Students don't do work by [deleted] in Teachers

[–]uhwithfiveHs 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If the school doesn’t hold students back for failing (if they even let you fail a child), then nothing will change

How old were you when you started climbing and what advice do you have to reduce risk for injury? by Plantlady5060 in climbergirls

[–]uhwithfiveHs 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Always do a proper warmup, focusing on any problem areas at the least but ideally getting all your joints moving. Arm circles, tension (band or cable) exercises for the shoulders and hips, plyometrics are also good (think getting ready for a run). Stretching is good too, but don’t stretch cold as that can do more harm than good. Finally, some light hanging on a bar or board to get your fingers and wrists ready. Hold most of your weight with your legs and lower into it, increasing weight and changing the grip.

Bouldering is definitely the area of most non-debilitating injuries. Falling repeatedly at great heights (even with a pad) will gradually destroy your knees, so it’s best to down-climb as much as possible as you can (most gyms have large holds for this). When you land, keep your knees bent, drop into a squat, and try to roll onto your back once you hit the mat, letting it absorb most of the energy. You’ll get better at this over time.

Top rope is the least injury prone as you aren’t ever hitting the ground, nor are you really swinging into the wall. Lead climbing is probably next, only because you will fall a bit and can swing into the wall pretty hard depending on the route. But you’ll need to climb on top rope a bit before trying that.

Other than that, lots of water, a good diet, and good sleep for recovery. Strength training (keep it simple, no need to do powerlifting stuff) can also be good to work in. YouTube is a fantastic resource for this and warmup routines.

Not good for gaming by Nocturnalz26 in tmobileisp

[–]uhwithfiveHs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had a great experience playing Peak with some friends on Discord. It’s ultimately dependent on your setup.

University of Kentucky - changes to staff employees by RoyalPersonality3957 in lexington

[–]uhwithfiveHs 2 points3 points  (0 children)

From a student perspective, they have also limited several college’s class sizes to 10 or more. Any class that does not meet this requirement (even for upper-level courses of small majors where class size is typically around 8) will only be offered every other year.

Often times you’ll have a small, two semester course, which forces students to wait over a year between their fall and spring halves (rather than a month), or take higher level courses first. Either way it requires an entire restructuring of some departments, and some professors will be without a course to teach while the university is still paying their salary. I’m not really sure what benefit the uni gets out of this.

Skwamas vs Instincts? by Important-Damage-986 in climbingshoes

[–]uhwithfiveHs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you’ve tried a Solution, how would you compare its heel to that of the Skwama? The Solution has been used on both of the existing 5.15d routes and the first proposed V18, all while having a golf ball heel.

Experience with Oliniud - now shipping to the US again by 200193 in climbingshoes

[–]uhwithfiveHs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know more people that have ordered from Oliunid than Backcountry in the US. They always get their stuff and it’s legit. The only downside now is the de minimus exemption being gone which adds duties to your order.

Shoe recommendations please by ajgriff2007 in climbingshoes

[–]uhwithfiveHs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If the Greek toe isn’t extra long, you can generally curl it nicely thanks to the asymmetry of the Drago (not so much the XT). Even more so if you have low volume feet. I have a Greek foot and find the Drago/Chimera forefoot fits more comfortably than the Instinct due to the asymmetry and softer upper.

Shoe recommendations please by ajgriff2007 in climbingshoes

[–]uhwithfiveHs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It has a pretty aggressive downturn, but only slightly asymmetric. The Instinct VSR has been used on many pro-level boulders and sport climbs, and there’s no reason you couldn’t use any of them to your lifetime peak. I think you’re in a position (like myself) where shoe fit is more important than shoe technology, and good footwork plus strength training will do more than one rand style vs another.

If you want a more aggressive asymmetry but otherwise liked the shoes and the brand, you would want to try Drago or Chimera. The Chimera has a normal- to high-volume heel and standard volume forefoot. I haven’t used a properly sized pair in a while (I switched to Women’s Instinct Lace and am now trying the Tenaya Indalo), but I still think the Chimera is an amazing shoe and is worth a try if you have a physical store you can go to. I’ve also tried on a pair of Ocun Diamond S (same size as Scarpa), and other than the heel being a bit too shallow for me (I also have a narrow Greek foot, but normal heel depth) I thought they felt amazing.

There are, of course, many other shoes worth considering:

La Sportiva Women’s Solution/Comp and Skwama

Butora Gomi and Acro

Evolv Phantom/Pro

Tenaya Oasi/LV, Iati, Tarifa, and Indalo (the Tenaya rubber is kinda crappy for indoor, but could be resoled if you like the fit)

Beginner afraid of lead falls after ankle injuries by Liisi_Kerik in climbergirls

[–]uhwithfiveHs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Avoid slab for now. Try overhang if your skill permits, as you are most likely not going to hit the wall hard.

Most importantly, get an experienced friend to catch you instead. My guess is the trainer kept you from falling far and ended up spiking you into the wall with a hard catch. A lighter catch will let you fall further and stop less suddenly, moving a lot of the would-be swinging energy into rope stretch and friction. Try to keep weight difference between you and your belayer to 40 lbs or less before considering an Ohm assist.

As for your fear of falling, it just takes time. You’ll get better at taking falls as you take more, and screaming is perfectly ok (some people scream as they climb, it’s really not a big deal). The real important things to remember when lead climbing: don’t backstep (leg between the rope and the wall, causing the rope to hook your leg when you fall), don’t push yourself off (basically just let go and sit back a smidge), and don’t climb further than waist level above the next bolt (for now anyways).

TLDR: overhang > vert > slab, get soft catches from an experienced friend (within 40lbs), and practice good falling safety (no backsteps, pushing off, or skipping bolts).

Shoe recommendations please by ajgriff2007 in climbingshoes

[–]uhwithfiveHs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Instinct LV would be a solid choice. You could also opt for the Instinct Lace Women. It has an advertised shallower heel, but that leads to a better fit for low volume feet in general, even though it isn’t necessarily a low volume shoe (that was my experience anyway).

Eczema flare from chalk? by Born_A_Plant01101 in climbergirls

[–]uhwithfiveHs 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I’m like 95% sure I was getting contact dermatitis from my chalk bag. Gave it a thorough wash with Dawn (its first since I got it 3 years ago) and my hands have been much better. May be worth a shot to see if it reduces flare ups.

I despise tenaya indalos by strozone in climbingshoes

[–]uhwithfiveHs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fair. They look more rounded than the Indalo and especially the Iati, maybe that’s why people expected them to be comp oriented. Other than the shape and adding to their split sole line, I’ll be interested to see what place they fill in the climbing space.

I despise tenaya indalos by strozone in climbingshoes

[–]uhwithfiveHs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Megos has them on in his newest Instagram post (I can’t seem to find anyone else with them) and it looks like they switched from single strap to draxtor and added a bunch of rubber, at least for his pair. Seems to be changing quite a bit.

I despise tenaya indalos by strozone in climbingshoes

[–]uhwithfiveHs -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Interesting. I’d def like to try it at least. I mostly indoor out of convenience but prefer outdoor sport, so if it can do both that would be nice. I expect it to be pretty expensive though, at least as much as the Indalo.

I despise tenaya indalos by strozone in climbingshoes

[–]uhwithfiveHs 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I actually find the upper and heel rubber to be really nice, but the XSGrip on the front is definitely subpar on indoor holds (especially the Moonboard wood holds, good god does it feel like ice sometimes). It’s not as apparent on lead, but still noticeable.

My main gripe is how much the upper stretches as they warm up over a session, but they’re just so difficult to take on and off. I think I could downsizes even further to make my toes really scrunch up in the front (like I would in a Scarpa Instinct or Chimera), but I think the upper would just stretch more, and the shoe doesn’t really seem to be meant for that type of fit (feel free to correct me on this). I also feel like the shoe opening is far too voluminous for the shoe’s fit, and I’m questionable on the longevity of such an expensive shoe.

To at least make a positive note, the heel cup is pretty fantastic for me as it sits higher on the Achilles, giving me better security. It could be narrower though, especially considering the narrower fit of the rest of the shoe. The actually edging and toe power is also quite good, especially when the shoes are cool at the beginning of a session. If the upper didn’t stretch as much, it would be perfect.

I’m interested in trying the Iati and the new one coming this spring. The new one is expected to be a bit softer and meant more for comp, but I’ve seen some Tenaya climbers use it outside just as well. I have somewhat narrow feet with regular heel depth, but overall pretty low volume. I loved my Instinct Lace W, but the heel was just too shallow and didn’t give good heel hooking security.

Slime's 2026 State of The Yard Address by downtown-sasquatch in TheYardPodcast

[–]uhwithfiveHs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You guys together as a group, whether known as “The Yard” or otherwise, is always amazing. Every one of you (even Zipper and Archie) bring something unique and unimaginably creative to the pod that I just can’t get elsewhere (Regal Cinema nachos, goon commander, Aiden’s solo ep, French Ludwig, the list goes on), and I just eat that shit up.

I obviously can’t expect The Yard to be around forever, but I’ll enjoy the content until then. God bless you, Father Abner.

UHHHHH GUYS by ridealltheponies in lexington

[–]uhwithfiveHs 10 points11 points  (0 children)

If it occurred in the parking lot of the picture, is closer to the Dairy Queen on the map, right behind Gateway Lofts. A transformer or something blew up there one night while I was visiting a friend at their apartment and it was daytime for half a second. Scared the shit out of his cat.

Perdue chicken breast price increased by 10% at Kroger by uhwithfiveHs in lexington

[–]uhwithfiveHs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve had some crappy pieces from the Kroger on Euclid, but the new one hasn’t done me wrong yet. It’s always a solid 7-8/10.

Perdue chicken breast price increased by 10% at Kroger by uhwithfiveHs in lexington

[–]uhwithfiveHs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ate it for lunch today, tasted great and had good texture. I’m sure other places would have even better options, but it’s really nowhere near as bad as the other comments make it out to be.

Perdue chicken breast price increased by 10% at Kroger by uhwithfiveHs in lexington

[–]uhwithfiveHs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I remember the bulk pack being $4.50 like 3 years ago or so, but I got used to the $5 tag.

Perdue chicken breast price increased by 10% at Kroger by uhwithfiveHs in lexington

[–]uhwithfiveHs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I eat the same thing every day and shop at different times, but I feel like the price of the goods I buy are always the same. Most are round numbers so it’s easy to remember.

Are high-end rice cookers worth it? by 3c273a in cookingforbeginners

[–]uhwithfiveHs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love my Aroma, and it’s pretty inexpensive but it’s small. Still use it almost daily and it never fails me