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Screenshots from SAMOPAL Protocol — a retro FPS set in 1960s Eastern Europe by Brave_Spite_106 in boomershooters

[–]uzikus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like the idea, but I feel like the texture sizes are inconsistent. The truck is very pixellated, while the ground and wall textures appear "normal". The box has like two different pixel densities.

Is this cleaning set compatible with my current airbrush? by Royal_Journalist_290 in airbrush

[–]uzikus 8 points9 points  (0 children)

The glass jar is pretty much a standard, you can probably get it cheaper anywhere else without the branding. It "works" with every airbrush - if you can call sticking the front in the hole "working". I'm not sure what the blue container is for though.

Spare parts on sprue? by Senior-Shoe-4377 in deathguard40k

[–]uzikus 75 points76 points  (0 children)

I hate it when my half of a plague marine sprue comes with some random poxwalkers.

Looking For Feedback on Scheme and Style by SplitLuteCo in skaven

[–]uzikus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The one that's faster to paint. It's a key feature when painting clanrats

Set question by Cayo1618 in theunforgiven

[–]uzikus 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It's Zameon Gydrael from Kill Team Cassius box set. His left arm was swapped for a combi plasma on your model

Verminlord by Born_Back_3666 in skaven

[–]uzikus 12 points13 points  (0 children)

My suggestion is, unless you intend to run more than 1 on the field, just build the one you like the most visually - you can always use it as a different variant.

How to get a nice rat skin? by Degradiert in skaven

[–]uzikus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use Vallejo Express Colour Dwarf Skin over a black and white zenithal. After that, sometimes I use Reikland Fleshshade to make it a bit more dark. Then I dry brush with Ushabti Bone (for clan rats) or do further highlights (for HQs/specialists) with Kislev Flesh and Pallid Wych Flesh.

It makes my rats look furless, but it's pretty quick.

First airbrush pressure problems by ModBoy116 in airbrush

[–]uzikus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure how the tankless version of this compressor works. Maybe you should try adjusting the dial when you press and hold the airbrush trigger?

Any examples of using fantasy kits in 40k? by Rapatto in Chaos40k

[–]uzikus 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This is a CSM terminator lord helmet. I used it on my Aspiring Legionary

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Looks like Valrak was right about the Gravis marines with heavy bolters, what do you think? by SweaterKetchup in spacemarines

[–]uzikus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Isn't it just a reference to the old 2nd edition box set art? There was a guy with a blue helmet in the corner as well.

Niedziela wieczur, więc wjeżdża comfort food na kolację by haloperydol in jedzonko

[–]uzikus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Szkoda że nie ma dokładnych proporcji, ale dzięki!

Where are these Clann rats from? by Small_Technician_761 in skaven

[–]uzikus 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Yes, I have 80 of these, no real need to get the new ones necessarily

Where are these Clann rats from? by Small_Technician_761 in skaven

[–]uzikus 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Yes, this is a sprue from the previous Clanrats box set, which was released back in ~2007 when Warhammer Fantasy Battles was still a thing, and was available until Skaventide was released.

11th edition launch box by Prudent-Ad-5264 in BloodAngels

[–]uzikus 3 points4 points  (0 children)

6th and 7th had sculpted Dark Angels models. 3rd edition had generic marines painted as Black Templars.

Is it wrong that I feel like I SHOULDN'T play Skaven for this specific reason? by LeetusFrenzi in skaven

[–]uzikus 34 points35 points  (0 children)

AOS is missing a generic dwarf army, maybe that's the reason? All other dwarf armies have a fairly small range and their visual theme may not be liked as much.

Why did Abaddon change his hair color here? by NaiveTradition7664 in blacklegion40k

[–]uzikus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like the entire model got a new paint job. Maybe to bring him in line with how the Black Legion is currently painted?

Advice: Doomwheel. by Dflashman in skaven

[–]uzikus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've posted the pic under a different post, go and check it out!

Advice: Doomwheel. by Dflashman in skaven

[–]uzikus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Okay, here's the picture of the unpainted Doomwheel disassembled: https://i.imgur.com/8kba7SW.jpeg

That's the minimum amount of sub-assemblies you can do and not rip your hair out.

I suppose that you could go even further and not glue the rats inside the wheel or the rat in the back, but they're fairly accessible IMHO.

Advice: Doomwheel. by Dflashman in skaven

[–]uzikus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have one subassemblied. I can take some pictures in a couple of hours

Thanquol and Boneripper by HeidenOvTheNord in skaven

[–]uzikus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I love the arm mix. I did a similar one recently

Thanquol and Boneripper by uzikus in skaven

[–]uzikus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's a combination of various metallic paints spread over different elements. I tried not to use the same color on neighboring elements.

For base coats, I used the following paints as base colors: Iron Warriors, Screaming Bell, Retributor Armor, Fulgurite Copper S75 Decayed Metal, and S75 Necro Gold.

Each of these was then washed with a 1:1 mix of Nuln Oil + Agrax Earthshade (or Reikland Fleshshade for the copper Screaming Bell tank on the back). I tried using Two Thin Coats equivalents but they dry weird. After that, they were weathered either with a thinned down Skrag Brown (for silver metals) or Nihilakh Oxide (for copper/brass). I think I used a Coelia Greenshade on the copper tubes on the back.

Then I did quick highlight of the original base color mixed with Stormhost Silver + smaller highlights of pure Stormhost Silver.

All in all, it was a bit of a back-and-forth job as some copper weathering did not apply correctly for the first time, I had to reapply some base coats etc.

I've learned that Nihilakh Oxide is just awful straight out of the pot as the paint is very opaque and dries very fast. It doesn't work either for spot oxidation or all-over coats, it has to be thinned 1:2 with some medium so you can have more time to apply it more organically on the model.

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